@@flikflak24 No that’s a really solid question, because that’s exactly what I did want to do. Unfortunately for me the trunnion just seems to behave really weirdly with simultaneous 4 and 5 axis paths, I’ve not been able to figure it out yet. By all accounts it could be better since I could also tilt it to use the best part of the ball mill. That being said, I’m not sure how the finish would actually look, it could be that the axis is too slow to make it work well. Hopefully I’ll get to the bottom of it eventually.

@@PraetexDesign maybe there is a G-code command that switch it from normal point to point position of the table over to rpm's pure totation ( like some of the lathes i have worked on where you give it one specefic G-code command and it then acts like a 3+1 mill til it gets a G-code command that tells it to cancle it/to go back to normal lathe mode ) maybe this can help with it though ( you will however have to convert it to metric if your machine is metric ofc

They’re astoundingly good for their price. I tend to use them for roughing since I can run them hard and not worry about having to replace them more often.

@@PraetexDesign Thanks! I will give them a try :)

@@iRaised95 Funnily enough that’s exactly what I did try out the first time I made them. The issue I found is it doesn’t help as much as I was expecting as it’s the top surface that introduces most of the vibration. It’s hard to get good contact on that one without making the Z alignment a bit of a faff. The play might be to do the operations in reverse, just with some larger jaws to get some good wall contact 🤔

@@flikflak24 Ah I did actually try that first before I settled on this finish type. The problem is the top surface, it doesn’t have the thickness to survive the MCD pass without some visible chatter. It still looked okay, but not quite as good as I imagine you’d be hoping for.

Probably not but still love to see it on a thick wall part from that machine with those tool holders. Only got my own self made mcd insert face mill that I made at school back when I became a machinest but nothing for side walls yet

@@PraetexDesign what was the woc and doc ? since mcd tools are only ment for final surface and only somehwere between 0.015 to 0.005 mm woc and doc and nothing more

Normally for metals I do use ethanol, although in this video I’m using Blaser Vascomill MMS FA1 since I was cutting PMMA shortly before and didn’t want to purge the lines.

Machine time is about 8 minutes for the first side, just under 11 minutes for the second side.

@@el_mastuo6738 Bit-Tech wasn’t my channel, I just worked there.

@@PraetexDesign nice to see u again . Good luck

The part self locates thanks to the angle, if I had it flat, I'd need wider jaws to get it somewhat accurate, which is a pain as that's the blank size I had haha.

@@PraetexDesign That's really cleaver I would have never thought of doing that for locating.

@@jrmichel1975 I outsource my anodising to a local specialist, it’s one of those things where it’s just not really viable to do in house efficiently here without a huge investment (in time, money or both)

@@jesperhagstrom it’s unbelievably convenient when frequently working with <2mm sheet stock. I think the default is a 3mm probe and I swapped it out within the first week 😂

@@pirugnappo Indeed I have! At the time this was filmed though I hadn’t quite got the method right though so didn’t use them. Getting the join right on transparent ones is much less forgiving.

@@Dsgj I’ve honestly contemplated it, I pretty much always mill my grids as it’s way faster, but milled top sections would be cool. I’ve seen a few folks do it before, always comes out really nicely.

@@PraetexDesign Random thought that came just now. If your "arsenal" of tools would grow quite a lot and you were to cnc the "holders", do it in a semi opaque plastic and place programmable leds under each to implement a searchable inventory that quickly lights up the exact tool. Overkill but a fun and possibly neat project:D

@@samcoupland I was thinking to do something very similar for the trunnion, put it off continuously since I don’t remove it that often though. For the swarf bin, I was thinking I might fill it with some plastic bins that can then be picked up quickly and emptied, the size is a bit awkward though :/

You can get swarf recycling and they'll even buy the chips off you. They normally require it to be a single metal though, and I noticed some brass in there as well as the aluminium, probably some acrylic too. There might well be places that take mixed, but I've only dealt with it on an industrial scale.

@@MakinComputers another dumb question maybe separate plastic and metal out just do some magnet them all out??

@@a17waysJackinn Aluminium is non magnetic

@@arpanchoudhury_ Ah I guess the description didn’t save when posted the link in, I’ll pop that in shortly

@@JJ-gk5tn It’s the Phanteks digital RGB one

@@PraetexDesign thank u so much And please keep up the awesome work Love ur videos

@@tropmx Not yet, most of the boards I use tend to come with them so I’ve not really had the opportunity/need. Could be worth checking out though!