I have an advantage and a disadvantage... i work on my screened in porch. Air quality isn't my problem, but clean up is. So i use my vacuum yo mitigate that problem. Space is an issue, too, as i only have 10x16. After getting chewed out for missing something... yah, my bad, it was my fault... i started using the vacuum to get most of it at the source. Ergo, it's much easier for me not to miss anything. But im using a roman workbench and 2 flip top carts. When not in use, they look like a bench with end tables along the wall. I still have to build a fliptop cabinet for my saw and get a planer for the 2nd cart. I rough out out stuff with power tools, but finish work is by hand.

Me thinks it was a high voltage spike like Lightning that popped those components like that.

I have the Bauer, and its a pretty good piece of equipment. But man, it sure is hard to put it on and take it off!

😂😂😂😂😂

It seems that you scrimped on quality and paid the price. Also - can't believe you are moaning about having to spend "5 dollars on fittings" to get it working.

Thanks for the honest review.

I don't know if you tried this yet - but increasing the pump speed should help once you fixed the holes in the pipe. You may also put your pipe in rigid foam and add foam sides. As others have said, a better pipe - ideally copper or steel would last much longer but at a much higher price.

Toper is not as good but better mobility. The cone is better if it is left in place. Make a housing for that router bit !!! (The best thing you can do!) Then use a carpet vacuum hose so you have flexibility... Better yet go to Goodwill and grab a 20-40 buck carpet vacuum with the built-in vortisies copied from high-end brands. Dirt Devil makes good cheap ones, you may have to empty more often but the footprint is nothing. If it doesn't work well you have a dust collector for smaller machines like a hand sander etc. I'm building a small table for smaller dust hogs in my shop 9in band saw small sanders etc. A Dirt devil in the cabinet, all parts not needed, like the handle chopped off. I drop my small tools on the tabletop and plug them into the built-in outlet and the vacuum hose.

So annoyed they discontinued the The LiftMaster 823LM is a remote light switch that can be used to control home lighting with a garage remote control or the MyQ app on a smartphone

After a year or so how is this working out? Does it still work?

The bauer needs a gasket installed. The newer ones come with the gasket

Arent you one whining little boy?

What tubing did you use?

Would this happen to PEX?

Clean the end of your house before making a connection.

_"About 1 year ago I built a solar water heater using _*_garden dripline_*_ ."_ You sound like one of those people who buy screwdrivers from Harbor Freight and then leave bad reviews when they break after being used as chisels.

Another cheap, Chinese made high frequency. transformerless inverter that offers a poor surge capacity and a shorter life expectancy than low frequency, transformer based inverters.

Crap company , i bought one , 400 euros , burnt out in 5 weeks , company not interested in repairing or replacing

looks like from the deformation and ridges on the top of the tubing that its being squashed by the suction weight of the water from the return line when the pump is turned off. When the pump is turned on it expands again. This work hardening of the tube will eventually cause it to fail. Either get a thicker tube that resists crushing or add a solenoid on the return to close when the pump is off and stop gravity squashing the tube.

Thank you

Get some old car radiators

shouldve used pex instead of dripline. Pex is much thicker. even better if you can source the black pex so you don't need to paint it. Pex is also designed to handle high heat, while dripline is meant for only cold water.

You can also use HD (high density)

Sorry boss plz cover it in hot summer 😂

When I use the Home Depot bucket with the cyclone it collapses and is unusable, I found some old Costco buckets I have and they don't collapse. I have a Depot dust collector and it does not do the job that the cyclone from from Harbor freight does .

I’m getting “abnormal reading and writing, check the connections are correct, or walkie-talkie power supply is turned on!” While trying to program my RT97S. Any ideas? I’m using the OEM cable

he's making a mistake with the Home Depot dust separator. the fix is to use 2 buckets .cut the bottom out of one of the buckets. that bucket slips into the other bucket making it sooo much easier to separate to dump dust.he i is right about the black thing in the H D . Remove it and add a 3-4" piece of pipe ,to extend deeper into the bucket.

Drip tube is where you went wrong. Use Pex, and coat it with an appropriate black paint. I live in the Mojave Desert the UV levels are typically 10 which fries everything. They do just fine here, you just didn’t use the correct materials.

None of the Chinese made high frequency, "output transformer free" solar generators on today's market including the Bluetti last very long. They are of a high frequency, transformerless design and the cheap Chinese manufactured MOSFETs used in these units cannot take repeated exposures to high surge loads such as full sized refrigerators, large power tools or large microwave ovens. Without an iron core, copper wound transformer to absorb the back EMF and high surge demands of these high inductance loads, typically after about a year's worth of use these expensive solar generator will become a non-repairable brick. You might be able to start and run some high surge loads when this inverter is new but every time you fire up or shut down that inductive load, you're shortening the life of the MOSFETs in your solar generator. They also run much hotter than low frequency, transformer based inverters which makes the low cost, off spec, Chinese made components such as capacitors, diodes, resistors and ICs that are used in these cheap solar generators, far more prone to early failure. Another major consideration with these high frequency, transformer free solar generators is safety. All it takes is for one of their MOSFETs or IGBTs to short to ground or the control circuitry to fail, and these units will send dangerous, high voltage, high amperage DC current straight to your connected AC loads which will not only damage most AC appliances but can also set those AC appliances on fire. A far better alternative is to invest a little more money and purchase a low frequency, transformer-based inverter charger and build your own solar generator. Low frequency transformer-based inverters last far, far longer and can easily power high surge loads without being damaged. That's why the big-name brand inverter manufacturers like Schneider Electric, Outback Power, Magnum Energy and others, all use a low frequency topology in their offerings. I know this to be true because I've spent the last 23 years repairing inverters. High frequency solar generators/inverters simply don't last when powering inductive loads.

Nice information

I still don't understand why you people don't just have a 6 pk of 55 gallon drums in the hot attic. To me having your own personal water tower with hot water from the heat of the attic space. MORE LOGICAL WAY OF DOING WHAT UOU DID BROTHER

MDF glue is VERY bad for you!! Need to wear a filtered mask when cutting that stuff where there is a slight chance of inhaling it.

I was a little concerned about the mixed reviews, but I used it last year and hooked it up again this year and it was great kzbin.infoUgkx-izdrK3eF-HMvjzeBOxToD6Fx-4ulJUh . I couldn't get my 10' Intex pool above 76 degrees the year prior and last year I got it to 90 and had to put ice in it. This worked so well! I have just 1 mat hooked up to a 1,000 GPH Intex pump and it makes a significant reduction in the flow rate coming back into the pool, but that is to be expected with how far the water has to travel through the mat.

Looks like you need to control the flow. You sayed its hard to control. Well yhe pump you were using wasnt pumping gast enough to regulate the water temperature at under pipe rated value!! 170f so pump the water faster or add a radiator in between each transition box to cool the water down and keep the pipes under temp rated value begote deforming!! Or use pipe rated for over 200f

Maybe put them in parallel instead of series. If the issue is getting too hot, limit how hot the water gets.

Those coils should be plumbed up parralel rather then in serious. This will increase the flow rate, decrease the temp that the pex tube reaches and actually heat your pool a lot more effeciently. Running those coils in serious like your doing is why your pex melts

Hey! Great video. I'm going to pick up the MyQLED1 and see if I can get that to work. I'll report back on it. How did you wire it inside the control box? Open and common? Did you power it off the ACC on the controller or just plug it into AC? Thanks!

thanks for not telling anyone what the name of the fing program is.

If you’re using irrigation pipe or regular PVC it’s only rated for 140 F. In an enclosure with glass over top of it the inside temp will exceed 185 F on an 90F degree day. Do not put glass over top. Just leave it open and the pipe won’t pop. At least for a couple years or so. I know this cause I have done it now my pipe is 100% copper and boy does it scold you if not careful. Overall once you get the water flowing it will be approximate 10 degrees hotter than pool water. So I need a lot more to be affective.

Well MINE sure worked!! Same exact design, but with no cover on it. My pool was actually too hot, in Michigan, well beyond the usual pool season. It ran 2yrs, then we moved. It was still in perfect operational condition with zero deterioration when I took it down.

Can't find your first video. I wanted to see where you got the fittings, because the ones I got leak.

I have to thank you for posting this video. I picked up the same light at the Goodwill but it was missing the remote. I followed your setup and wa la. I just put a switch between the positive and negative.

ive try socarex too ... black abs tubing.. vendoor said to me to take the cheaper one more easy to bend... its 37 euro for 25 meter ... work very well too ive made a 1.5square meter captor with it inside a insulted panell with scrap double window..; average power going to the water was 600 watt...

have recovered a abs like thin paralel canal roll of solar heater like 5 meter * 60 cm... it go very well .. i heat a 800 liter plastic palet container... ive fill it up halfway at 11h... its 14h30 and ma 400 liter are as much heated as i take ma bath like... en of the day it gonna top like at 42 or more depending of the sun...

I am planning to make one of these, but cover everything with 4-6 inches of sand to make a heat sink and help stabilize the temps. Will post a vid if it works, but you may be able to salve this setup if it does.

A better (cosmetically, functional, and economical) option would be to run pex between your rafters. Then back it up with some foil "radiant barrier" material. We all know how hot it gets in the attic. Have you ever touched the roof sheeting in the attic? Should be able to heat your pool, the neighbors too while lowering your house cooling bill~! Major edit: Must have "Continuous flow control" with probably PRV

"The poor man's money goes to the store twice." You tried to save a buck on the PEX tubing, and it cost you. The money you spent on the irrigation tubing is now tuition in the School of Hard Knocks. Maybe your video should be titled: Don't do what I did.

I have them both they both work but the Bauer does work better. I was a bit of a pain to get connected but the Bauer is the one I use.

I just built one and used PEX tubing sprayed with Matte black. Costs a little more but from what I've read it holds up much better. Might cost a little more on the initial outlay but my philosophy is that if it lasts a few years it will have paid for itself considering today's prices in both units and energy any of you guys have thoughts on PEX either way?

Thanks you I about to order same material.