Hi Alex, thanks for the nice comment! I must admit, I enjoy doing the carpentry work, it's never according to a detailed plan, but more like adjusting as I go. Regards, Paul

Thank you for the nice comment!

Hi Kelly, thanks for your comment! My videos are what they are. I respect your opinion. An opinion is just an opinion, everybody is free to make a choice to watch or not to watch. Regards, Paul.

Thanks for the comment Tony! Btw, I'm a great fan of your layout and the modelling you are doing, really great! Your videos are very inspirational! Regards, Paul

You have given me a few ideas yourself...cheer's Tony

Hi Tony, thanks for the nice comment! I'd be honored if you would borrow some of the ideas, that's all part of this great hobby. Regards, Paul

Hi, thanks for your comment and my sincere apologies for the late reply! I have used regular sisal rope for the pilings, i.e. very thin sisal rope. Regards, Paul

Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately, I don't know how to make the coupling with the Z21. I have used a separate 12V DC power supply to power the MP5 motor itself and I've put DPDT mechanical switches in between the power supply and the MP5 motor to "switch" the motor. The power to the frogs comes directly from the bus wire. In essence, the MP5 motor has to separated circuits, one for switching and one for powering the frog. Furthermore, and just for info, in one of my later videos I explained that the MP5 motors are not very robust. If I would have to make the choice again, I would not choose the MP5 motor, but something else which is more robust.

@@two_hill Thank you

Thanks Chris for the comment. I hope I'll be able to finish this scene soon. I'm still waiting for the pump kit to arrive, receiving stuff from the US takes a lot of time these days. So, I'm finding other projects to work on in the mean time. Regards, Paul

Hi Michael. Thanks for the comment. Indeed, no yard! And there are several reasons for it. First of all, when I started designing the layout, I was totally new to the hobby and did not really have an idea of how to design a track plan or how to build a layout. I just wanted a layout that was not necessarilly prototypical but that allowed me to model a "world" that I would enjoy. In addition, I had very little space available and so a yard (in HO scale) would take away a large chunk of the available space. Almost three years into the building, I still enjoy the design, and that is what counts. Anyway, I still hope you found at least some interesting features in the design. Regards, Paul

@@two_hill The hobby is whatever pleases you. I was just curious.

Hi Alex, thanks for the nice comment! Good luck with your modelling! Regards, Paul

Hi Chris, thanks for the nice comment! I agree I'm being a bit hard on myself, but if I really zoom in there are a few spots that could have turned out slightly better. Anyway, in the end I plan to have lots of waterfront houses and boats in the water, so most of those spots you won't see anyway. I'll just crack on with the next project, the hobby is a lot of fun right now :-) Regards, Paul

Thanks Chris!

Thanks for the nice comment. I'm happy to hear you got some ideas out of it, that makes sharing the videos very rewarding. Regards, Paul

Thanks for the nice comment. I must admit that the walls involved a lot of tedious work, but the end result makes it worthwhile. Regards, Paul

Hi Chris, the locomotive is a class 01 DB, it came with the starter set that I bought, which was the z21 Digitalset by Roco. I'm planning to buy more steam locos, looking at some American steam locomotives. Regards, Paul

Hi Chris, thanks for the nice comment. This was really a fun project, the motivation to work on the layout is also back after the summer vacation. I just finished another video, but in the next one I can do short running session. Regards, Paul

Hi Gerhard, thank you for the nice comment. I fully agree with you regarding the sidings. I have already added an additional point/turnout on the innermost rail (where I have the 3 rails next to each other). I plan is to have a siding to the harbour area as well as another siding towards the area where I want to build the lift bridge (there is space for an industry there). In my next video I can address this and share a few more details about the sidings. Regarding the minimum radius, I made a typo. The minimum radius is 36 cm, not 36 mm. My apologies. I'm not entirely sure what you mean with the cookie-cutter sub-roadbed. If you mean the track foam, then that is glued down with regular PVA woodglue. The risers are fastened with screws and woodglue. The reason that there are relatively few in-progress shots is that initially I hadn't planned to start a KZbin channel. So when I did start to make the first videos I did realize that I had made too few pictures and videos. Regards, Paul

Thanks! The plan is to achieve the same result as with the rolling drawbridge, same level of detail etc. I just hope that the Kibri bridges that I plan to use for the build will become available soon! Regards, Paul

Thanks Andrew! Sometimes I wish I had a larger layout, but then again, progress is already slow as it is right now. The compromises I had to make between running options and not cluttering the layout with too much track seems to work out fine. Regards, Paul

Hi Alex, thanks for your nice comment! Regarding the carpentry, cutting out the sheet of plywood with the lake and the crossing tracks was quite challenging. I must admit that my wife and oldest daughter had to help out holding the various loose ends so that nothing would break off. Regards, Paul

Thanks for your comment! This track plan is originally an N-scale track plan and because I had to convert it to HO-scale I had to remove all of the inside track. Sounds like your plan will be working out nicely for N-scale. Regards, Paul

Thanks (and apologies for the late reply). The painting and weathering is perhaps the part of the hobby that I enjoy most, it's just so much fun experimenting with the colours. Regards, Paul

Thanks! I saw this technique on the Jason Jensen Trains youtube channel. He applied this technique using both salt and baking soda. The salt grains really let the old rust come through, you obtain very realistic looking rust spots. In addition, I applied a relatively thin finishing layer of spray paint, which also makes the old rust come through in various places. The disadvantage with the video is that it displays the end result too "bright and shiny", in reality it looks like a dull old rusted bridge. Regards, Paul

Thank you very much for the nice comment and thanks for subscribing! Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of the original N-scale plan, I went through my documentation from two years ago but I couldn't find any such information. Stokmarknes is in Lofoten, we were on vacation in Lofoten last summer, but didn't visit this part of Lofoten. It's incredibly beautiful there! Regards, Paul

@@two_hill Paul, thanks for the reply and looking for the track plan. My Norwegian brother's wife loves to take photos of the Lofoten and regularly teases me with their beauty. Kindest regards, Eric (aka DadCooks)

@@DadCooks2 The name of the original N-scale plan is Casade Washington. It originally appeared in the October 2000 Model Railroader magazine and later the book 102 Realistic Track Plans.

Hi Chris, thanks for the wonderfull comment, your daughter definitely made my day!! I'm happy you liked the video! Regards, Paul

Hi Andrew, thank you for the very nice comment! When I started designing the track plan we had just moved into a new house and this was the only room I had available, i.e. what my wife allowed me to use :-) . In addition, I was (and I feel I still am) totally new to the hobby, I had no experience whatsoever. Christmas 3 years ago I started watching model railroading videos and got hooked, it is such a great hobby. The track plan was really a compromise between having enough track to run two trains continuously and simultaneously, but not to make it a big clutter, and to have some interesting scenic possibilities. On hindsight, the layout is large enough for the time being, given the limited amount of time I have to work on it. I am running it in DCC (using the Z21 controller). Regards, Paul

Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure yet what I will do. I hope to keep it "operational", that means I want to try and make a construction such that I can open and close the bridge, but I have to see how that works out. I always have half a plan and then practice needs to show me how it turns out. I'm out of materials right now, so need to order first... Regards, Paul

Takk. Det går framover, sakte men sikkert :-) Det er i hvertfall veldig gøy.

Thank you for the nice comment! The scratch build is a bit fidly, but the end result will be nice (I hope). Regards, Paul

@@two_hill 😎

Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. To be honest, I tend to have a "sort of"-plan, and then model and find solutions as I go. Regarding the prototyping, in this case I was actually waiting for the delivery of the plastic card, so I thought I might just as well try something out with paper card. Regards, Paul

Hi, thanks for your kind comment, that is much appreciated! Indeed, I'm trying to make the videos as simple (and as short) as possible. I'm not a professional in making videos, to say the least :-), just trying to document the progress on a small layout. It is great to see that there are people out there enjoying just that. I wish I had a bigger room to build a bigger layout, but then again, given the limited amount of time that I have to work on it, this size of layout should be fine for now. Regards, Paul (Norway).

Hi, thanks for your question! I designed my trackplan in AnyRail and saved the it from this program as a pdf-file. I saved it in a 1:1 scale, i.e. in the actual size of the layout. I then took the pdf-file to a printshop and they printed it on two large pieces of paper. They had to use two pieces of paper because they didn't have paper matching the width of the layout. Because I knew I was going to cut up the printout, I told them to print it on the cheapest quality paper they had. I hope that answers your question. Regards, Paul

Hi, thanks for your comment! I am using Peco track and the Z21 DCC controller, which gives me AC power on my track. In the case of DC locos you will have DC power on your track. If I understood the description coming with the MP5 point motor correctly, you can apply the same scheme as I have, but using DC from the track instead of AC (as in my case). Before I came to this scheme I tried out a lot of different things. In the end this was the scheme that worked best for me. I think it is safe to try my scheme using DC instead of AC on the track, I would simply try it out to see if it works. Hope this helps! Regards, Paul

Bob Ross is my hero!

Dank je Mir Z.