It doesn't work, it's break right off without putting any weight on it. What a stupid design.

Thank you!

@youcandoit2 where do you get your 10 mil poly? I'm seeing a huge range of options online as far as price goes, but none mention a permeation rating. I'm skeptical to spend 800 on poly for an 1800 sq ft house just to find out moisture gets through

Thank you for the video! And how to close the door? I know some keypad just hit the enter button and the door will close but mine is the same as your, it doesn't come with enter button.

This is exactly what I need because I don’t want to break my wall and cabinets , the chain part is very smart 👍 Thank you for your video!

8:48 Now let's give those HVAC ducts some decent support...

Great instruction!

Thank you! For installing this for my mom... it works great!! I think this video will help me do it myself next time!! ALways love your videos...such great info!

Great video. Thanks. I've been watching tons of these and this has to be the best most detailed vid I've seen. Your crawlspace is almost the same size and shape as mine. 1500sqft and a long rectangular ranch. I have far less headspace and literally have to crawl or bear crawl through mine. I will take my time and do this step by step like you've shown, starting with debris and rocks. I then have to figure out how I am going to insulate/ seal this space from my floor above. Thanks again.

Excellent review. Thank you!

Great idea! I love your videos, please keep going and soon you'll have a million subscribers like some others I watch.

Very creative and I like that you're reusing old wood and repurposing it! Great job!

How deep are the LED light fixtures? I noticed your first insulation support came through the ceiling right next to a ceiling framing member. Did you have to move the light location further away?

That's not a good install at all.

What a fantastic demonstration, thank you for the extra tips along the way! Happy travels

What a fantastic job. We could definitely see the change in color in your video. It does look like a lot of hard work but doing it yourself…you know how good of a job you are doing compared to taking it to an RV dealer and having a sloppy job. We appreciate the details in explaining each step. The warranty for 10 years is an added bonus. I really don’t think our RV dealership could match that! Thank you!

What's the small silver round piece for?

If I may: It was a good job. The only thing I would have changed is measuring from the male side of the first straight pipe to be cut. The first cut should have been from there crimped/tapered end resulting in a pipe with a male and female end. Start connecting the female end into the floor connection. Next, the opposite end, a male, going into the female end of the elbow. keeping the rest of the connections male into female until the very end where the last piece would be two female ends. 🤔

Life Saver 🎉❤🎉❤

Great video. On a job that had a big slope what would you recommend? Pouring a really tall footer or maybe putting a post “ leg” on top of the jack? I ask since the jack has only 4 inch adjustable range but I have 28” to grade in one of my corners…

Toilets have overflowed and water is pouring into my floor vents which made a waterfall into my basement from ceiling. Anyway to prevent this? Is it possible to move floor vents to wall vents?

That's a lot of bends and overall run length. Looks good but not a recommended install for efficiency or safety. Plus, cleaning that would be very difficult without taking some pieces apart. Dryers are notorious for starting fires so it's important to make that as easy as possible.

I applaud you taking this on. I do this for a living and it's not easy to do at all. A couple of things stand out though. All of this is under ICC R408.3 and yes, permits are generally required but your local gov't might not require it. The vapor barrier is fine for the task but one of the other ways to ensure the barrier lasts is to install a dimpled drain mat under it. It will -drastically- increase the durability. Second, the vapor barrier should be overlapped 6 inches and the barrier can be installed, depending upon the local building code, between 1-2 inches from the TOP of the foundation wall for the termite reveal. Also, the rim joist is a critical point for air infiltration as well as any vents. The rim joist needs to be air sealed with foam board or closed cell foam, ~2 inches for R13. it's also a really good idea to add foam board to the hatch door. The best way to secure the barrier to CMU walls is with butyl tape on the masonry and bond the barrier to it. It holds much better and even pinning it with xmas tree fasteners guarantees it will not move. If you are in an area that experiences really cold weather the code also allows you to use partial conditioning to bring the delta between the living space and crawl space much closer together. It's typically 50 CFM but for a space that size at least 100 CFM. 2 medium sized supply vents should do the trick and it HAS to communicate back to the return so a return vent has to be installed. FYI, that dehumidifier is grossly undersized. The 55 is rated at 53 Pints (80°F, 60%RH). The stated capacity on their brochure is 112/day at saturation, 90% RH which is a misnomer. The COP rating, a measure of using electricity to move heat is 2.27 L/KwH which is a tad low. 3.5 to 4+ is much better. I have extensive experience with this line, which is made by Seaira Global and other brands are manufactured under that company. It's placement is less than ideal for a space that size and it needs a duct kit to move air around the space. The minimum standard is 70 pints/day per 1000 sq/ft. So, you have to calculate the amount of capacity you need for 1429 sq/ft. Take 1000/70 which equals: 14.2857 which is our constant. Take 1421, the total square footage of the space: 1421/14.2857 which equals 99.470 pints per day. A 100 pint/day dehumidifier technically meets that requirement but it has to work harder. In effect you'd need two of those to properly dehumidify the space. Not a bad job at all but there are some obvious issues that should be addressed. Hence, this is why the pro's charge what they charge. Please feel free to respond back here if you need any additional tips or advice.

Greatest video thanks you guys very nice job 👍

Now if you check YT, you can find just as many videos of Redgard failures as Schluter. So, nothing is conclusive anymore. Hard to know what to use these days. Redgard is definitely easier to apply, and much less expensive. One doesn't have to deal with layer built up in the corners like you do with a fabric membrane -- though as others have posted, you are supposed to tape your seams.

Put a heat gun on it next time nice job brother! but it won't be a next time lol pic or azek!!!!!

I feel like roll on is the safest way, just paint it on, its to much room for error with kerdi, you can really mess up unless you messed up b4 you redguarded

Great build! I’m looking at doing something similar on my back covered patio.

I got one of these and never use it cause i forgot i have it. Circular saw, then jigsaw or hand saws or hacksaw or reciprocating saw or my knee, i can never remember this tool 😒

Perfect, Thank you. Iam so glad i found this video. The few videos skipped over the parts that i needed to see. Very detailed, now i feel confident installing my fan👍

Hi, Can I spray mold armor on the coils in the HVAC or other areas in the unit?

I am gonna try this over the weekend...thanks for the very helpful instructions

What about 110 mm pipe 😅?

FEIN FEIN FEIN FEIN 🗣️🗣️🗣️🗣️🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

Cute greenhouse. Love it!

make sure your box is (ceiling) fan rated!! if you are replacing a ceiling light for a fan, you most likely do not have a fan rated box & will need to make the necessary corrections. if you are replacing a previous ceiling fan, then you most likely have a fan rated box. it's highly important as the fan could potentially fall down!! the reason why is that light fixtures (most of the time) do not need to be mounted on a stud or joist if they are relatively lightweight. If they're not on a stud or joist, then they will use a metal bracket to connect between 2 joists. they are not strong enough for fans. Ceiling fans are far heavier & the boxes are not strong or strongly supported enough to hold the weight without the ceiling collapsing. I don't mean to scare anyone, but it's a very, very important detail most people don't know about. But, otherwise, everything is else is pretty spot on.

very educative. thank you

Hello again. Can't you just put these worms directly into the compost pipe? They will go into the compost pipe anyway. Also, I didn't understand whether Google Translator made a mistake in translating the subtitles into Turkish? Were there 18 worms in the boxes? Another question came to my mind. This soil will not be fertilized with artificial fertilizer at all, am I right?

Is the tape measure you are using inches or centimeters? Are the numbers 5,10,15,20,25 inches or centimeters? How many pockets are there in a row?

Dont get it. So if one element is off the scales you cant drink. All the colors should be in the safe range? Seems like so many minerals need to be in the safe range. ALL correct?

Great instructional video, pretty hands too :)

I don’t wanna use the tank as this is for a saltwater aquarium so I will make water as needed all I do is put a ball valve on it correct ?

Question. I did mine and it looks like I did everything someway but to lock it locks to left and to unlock is to the right. Is there a way I can change that?

What a great review!! That looks like it could also be used like what a circular saw could do. Do you know how long the battery would last? Especially if cutting larger limbs? Thanks for another awesome video.

I thought I was going to see a self leveler video??? Turns into tile and harder backer video??

Great video! Thanks 🙏🏾

GREAT VIDEO, THANKS FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND TIME.

I have one of these installed by a previous owner of the house. It has failed, causing a flooding and collapsed ceiling underneath. I have access to the underside of the shower and can see the end of the ABS pipe with what I suspect is the remains of a gasket sticking about 1/8" out of the ABS elbow. It looks like it can just pop in to the drain fitting, but I presume that's not right, and why this failed. Can anyone shed light on how this normally connects to the actual ABS drain pipe? The pipe has some movement in it so it it relies on "gravity" to stay attached, do I just jamb it back inside, and properly strap the pipe? Seems like a bad plan...

Excellent work! I don't know about crawlspace aesthetics though. 🤣🤣🤣

Love the pre-cut and labial idea. Prep work makes the dream work.