Nice video it's good to still see these out there my local small engine dealer told me these were first made in 1987 I can also remember the council's using them in the late 80s early 90s the guy from the shop told me they were a very expensive strimmer and would have cost around £800 and that's in the 1980s I my opinion these are the best strimmers ever made. If you need any advice on these mountfield 40s just let me know

@@filmcomuk I see you have a vid of a Model 40 the same as mine too. The fuel cap split & i couldnt find a replacement so i took a cap off a 25L drum & epoxied it over it then added the breather line to try & stop it pissing petrol down my leg. The stand on the front of the engine broke years ago & got thrown away. The original ignition switch failed & was replaced. I put a new clutch on it a few years ago, hasnt done much heavy work since but runs real hard. Thanks for replying, i had no info about it before. I have no doubt these were expensive strimmers or the best ever made because i cant see one of those modern plastic ones lasting like mine has after putting in the work it has. Any idea of the cc of the motor? Nice channel BTW showing the older engines

@@MadxJim the model 40 was fitted with 3 different engines which was the original like on your video they also used Kawasaki td40 and zenoah g4k engines on later machines but I reckon original engine was the best also I think the engine size is 37.3cc

No I sold this one a few years back

Hi what diameter is your air filter

​@@filmcomuk I have a MountFiled 37 like yours, its the one I have haha, apologies for that, I should of mentioned haha! :)

Hi what kt12 machine do you have i mean like is it an hedge trimmer the same as the one in my video or is it strimmer type, i will make a new video showing all round the engine and how the primer system works , i will try to get it on for this weekend

Hello i have just uploaded 3 videos i put them on my other mobile phone account if you type into KZbin search filmcomuk2 the 3 videos will be on the top page i hope these are of help to you if you need any other help or advice let me know. cheers Carl

@@filmcomuk ok thanks

Hi i've not seen a parts manual for one of these machines if you send me some photos of your kt12 i should be able to see if there's anything missing...Regards Carl

I think most of the parts are there I just need to find out what’s bolts or screws fit the handle on to the engine and I think some of the wires may be cut but other than that I think it’s got them all il try and look at it when I get a chance and I will get back on here

@@filmcomuk Hello I’ve just started to look into it there is a hose coming off the carb right on carb by the air filter leading to the end of the hose I’ve tried to look at photos and they seem to go down the back but there doesn’t to be anything fittings down that bit for it

Hi yes there is a rubber tank breather with valve part number 14069-2056 or 140692056 this comes under other part numbers but these are the main ones, also you must push the rubber pipe on the breather over the rubber studded part on the breather as they are not sold all ready pushed on , have a look on the internet for images of this ... Regards Carl

@@filmcomuk Hi, thanks for your reply. I found the breather with the valve and solved the problem! It had probably been lost! I also noticed a small leak from the fuel line that goes into the fuel tank; could you tell me the original code? Thank you very much...Regards

​ @Carlo Perbellini Hi if its the fuel pick up pipe with filter complete its part number 490192065 or 49019-2065 and number for pick up pipe on its own is 920592105 or 92059-2105 these could also come under other part numbers

@@filmcomuk Hi, thank you very much for the information! I will try to find the spare part with these references. Regards

Hi these brush cutters are very rare these days i think they date back to the early 80s ( 81- 82 maybe ) they are good solid reliable machines and last for years they also come under the original Xenoah badge. if you are doing an old one of these up check the crank oil seals with a pressure vacuum tester as they are usually blown in a machine of this age also the points would need a clean and gap set , you can also get ignition module to replace the points, in my opinion they are probably the best machines ever made ..if you need to know anythink else about these just message me..Cheers Carl

@@filmcomuk Hi Carl, sorry mate I've only just seen your reply! - the poor thing is still hanging from the roof waiting to be restored, but out of curiosity, are they worth much theese days?? It's grubby but in good condition overall, and I have the original manual for it somewhere too.

Hi I have just seen the message 1 year later I reckon about £70 fully running order, well that's what I got for my one about 5 years ago and that was in tatty Condition but if anyone knows these machines and needs one or for parts then that Could be a totally different kettle fish and my pay more as these old Xenoah engines are super rare well I haven't seen one for years or any Parts for them. Regards Carl

Hi just checked the service manual cc displacement is 22.5 cc they are fairly power for such a small engine

@@filmcomuk hey thanks for the reply it is much appreciated. 👍

Hello Kris the spark plug gap is 0.6mm to 0.7mm also on these kawasaki kt12s you may need to set the ignition points gap with a feeler gauge which is 12 to 15 thou or in metric 0.30 mm to 0.40 mm also before adjusting points gap you may need to clean the point surfaces up i usually do this with fine grit wet and dry paper (for sanding bodywork on cars ) just clean them so all the black is of the points mating surfaces and they look silver shiny this would usually be done fairly quick depending on how black the point surfaces are then adjust the gap .. hope this is of some help .. cheers Carl

i think the non AV models date back to 1977 to 1980 then they made the AV models good solid machine light weight and tons of power i also have both models of strimmer now becoming rare in the uk

the non av model also has points ignition

i would say these trimmers are more than 30 years old mid 1980s if you see the Kawasaki Kt 12s with the blue engine casings or the brown engines like on the flymo hover mower they are even older mid 70s onwards ..... best engine ever made

Abbadon2001 Yes , where do you come from ?

filmcomuk I have a k12 but i dont know the setting on the 3 screws. Can you please advise me? Thanks

Hi there is only 1 fuel line on this type of carb where you see the primmer elbow on the video a pipe goes from the elbow to the fuel inlet on the carb and the other pipe from the bottom of the primer elbow goes to the top of the tank connection i think you have to take the fuel tank off to get the pipe on

As a Stihl and echo agent at the time these were sold, you are talking absolute bullshit. The fs65 was the same colour as the echo but that is all. Know the facts before you comment.

Although your query regarding the TD 33 Carb. problems were 6 years ago, I can offer some sound advice. For many others who own a Kawasaki TD 33 that isn't behaving. The usual symptoms of misbehaviour, is running erratically, bogging down, and even stalling when power is required. The Teiki TK1 Carb. has been poorly designed, and in order to make the carbie good again, remove the brass Plunger Primer, and Fork Unit. Throw this away. Next, try to find an Aluminium Rivet that is a 'sliding fit' into the bore where the Brass Plunger (Primer Piston) - used to be. THEN - clean out the bore of the brass plunger, making it free from fuel oil. Clean up the aluminium rivet. You could even rough-up the rivet and the bore slightly, with some Emery paper for an improved bond. Clean out the bore with a cotton - bud soaked in methylated spirit. Clean the rivet with methylated spirit. Apply super-glue to the length of the Aluminium Rivet, leaving 3-4mm at the inserted end of the rivet. You do not want to get any super glue deep inside to block the Main Jet. Set the Throttle Slide Needle on the middle setting. Then adjust the Mixture Screw (when running) to give instant response and maximum revs. Following this treatment of blocking the Primer Bore with an aluminium rivet (superglued in position), you will find that your Kawasaki TD 33 will run better than when it was new. Better NOT to use any ethanol- blended fuels in such a small engine that requires instant power response. I am saddened to think that thousands of people would have thrown away a beautiful Kawasaki Brushcutter TD 33 to scrap, when the designer of the Teikei TK1 Carbie should have committed Hari Kari. I see this as a big injustice to Kawasaki's good name. BTW, the reason for using an Aluminium Rivet (not steel) is because the thermal expansion rates are the same - between rivet and carbie. Do not use steel or plastics to block off this Primer Bore. When you have blocked-off the Primer Bore completely, give the machine a Test Run without the Air Filter. You will be amazed at the performance of this sweet little machine. My machine is more than 30 years old, and it has given me five years of hell - of misbehaving, until I got to the bottom of its' poor performance. Just make sure that you have a Primer Bulb in the Fuel Line, because the Brass Plunger Primer is 'just an Appendix', and not needed. I do hope that I can help save a few of these beautiful machines going to the Tip, because of the poorly-designed Carburettor. Peter D.

Thank you peter for your reply i have got a few of these kawasaki machines not the td 33 but the kt12ad engine same carbs as the td33 though, Hopefully this should be a good fix for one of these,with the same fault as you had all the info you wrote is excellent and very help full and much appreciated.Cheers Carl

If your Teiki Carb has the brass Primer piston and fork, remove it and seal off. Just glad that I have helped someone......