Thanks.

Glad it helped.

Thanks Bill for watching my video. It's nice knowing there are other "Old School" mechanics out there. Normally, cam chain and valves are the major source of noise in the XS650 so I can't imagine what other problem you may have. Hope you figure it out. Thanks again, Lanny

@@smutty542 Well, from firing up bike in my shop I do believe everything went as planned. Of course my planned test ride the next morning has been pushed several times by rain. I will get back to you with a report of highway speed noise when I can. Sure was quick and easy. It was interesting to explain what I was doing to a couple of friends that were hanging out. I think it clicked for them when I explained the difference between tappet adjustment and ignition points adjustment. Points open for a short time on the high point of the lobe while tappets are open Until the high point of the cam lobe. Easy peasy!

Thanks for watching and glad I could help.

Huh?

for each cylinder . .002 intake. .004 exhaust

I disagree. The video isn’t useless, in fact it’s very useful. This guy took the time to make this video to help people. He demonstrated a simple method to get the job done and it helped me pull my crank bearing without having to buy another tool. So, the video saved me time AND money. I’m sure you agree that it’s not nice to bash someone’s efforts just because it didn’t help your particular application.

@@202vaughn Thanks for watching and glad I was of help.

This method should help. I've never adjusted valves with a warm or hot engine, always cold. If the tops of your valves are pitted it will be hard to get the noise out without replacing the valves and if you have to do that it would be the perfect time to install elephant foot adjusting screws. I tried a set from MikesXS once and found them sub-par. Contact me about a source if you choose to go that route.

I'll have to thoroughly inspect them

You are correct. Rotate engine while checking valve clearance until you find the maximum clearance. Without moving the crankshaft adjust valve to proper clearance. I do mine at .002 intake and .004 exhaust.

Catastrophic roller bearing failure in the XS650 is rare. This video was made for people wishing to remove the main bearings and reuse them. For instance, rod bearing replacement or re-phasing. Pitted rollers are a visual clue that there is a problem.

I prefer .002 intake and .004 exhaust for the Yamaha XS650. This will get you the best performance with no noise.

Absolutely. The procedure was developed for use in the old 1977 Yamaha XS750D which was a shim-over-bucket engine. Fortunately, the shim-under-bucket system you have is one of the most stable valve set-ups out there. Chances are when you check your clearance you'll find them well within specs and you can put your valve cover right back on. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for replying. Great insight that the crankshaft position is secondary to the actual clearance, so the marks can be safely ignored as long as you're TDC on the correct stroke.

Using a timing light, the "F" should align at idle. Check that your ignition is advancing by revving the engine to 3000 rpm's and making sure the advance mark is spot on. If you're still running points I highly reccomend the Pamco Ignition. Thanks for watching.

MikesXS if memory serves. They are stainless and probably could have been nicely polished if I had taken the time. They are allen. Thanks for watching.

Cool. Thanks

I will check this system for adjusting the valves clearance

This method has absolutely nothing to do with ignition timing. Pay no attention to the T or F marks when finding the loosest place in your valve. You can take a look when you find your loose spot just to see where they are but you'll rarely see them where you think they should be. Thanks for watching.

I'm not sure what you're asking me as this procedure doesn't use the TDC mark as a reference. We are simply finding the most valve clearance and adjusting the valve at that point regardless of the timing marks that Yamaha provided for engine assembly and ignition timing.

Thanks for your interest. I haven't really thought about doing a video on XS650 points as most people use Pamco but I can offer some advice. I always set the gap in the middle of the range then start the engine and use a Timing Light (strobe) to make final adjustment. Hope this helps.

Yes, the engine is room temp.

I'm inserting the feeler between the valve adjusting screw and the top of the valve stem. If you look close you'll notice that this engine has elephant foot adjusters which I highly recommend.

Yes I have. You'll need to separate the two crank half's. It's a pain in the butt. The neatest way I've seen to do this is by a guy named Mr Riggs. I think I saw his pictorial on XS650 Forum but could be wrong. He used a series of wedges and a press to do it and not have to true it afterwords. If you have a press I'll try to find the procedure and send it to you.

Looking at the cost of bearings and the fact that I would have the trouble of doing it all, I decided to get a reconditioned crank with all new parts.

I don't blame you.

Thanks for watching.

+Dylan Proctor I stand corrected. Thanks for watching.

Oh, come on you are pissing Vinegar now, snapring, sirclip...same!

MrSpaghettiO

Did you ever solve your issue the smoke after using this method?

Yes thats correct. You can run your clearances tighter if you like. As close as .002" for intake and .004" for exhaust with no problems.

They make lots of pullers that slip behind it but none that I've found that don't touch the caged portion of the bearing. If you pull against the roller cage it will distort it and ruin the bearing.

Thats right. This is so simple. Sorry if my presentation wasn't clear. Find that point where you have the most clearance and adjust your valve to the desired clearance. You never have to look at those timing marks. Super fast and simple.

Lanny Mobley will this method work on an xs400

Sorry for the long wait. Yes, this method will work on any engine that doesn't have hydraulic lifters.

YES