So some really sketchy things here concerning your quad set-up. The quad doesn’t actually have a “shelf”. The strands above the limiter knots is not a shelf. Clipping things there, especially your belay device, is not kosher and violates the no extension standard of a SERENE anchor. If you clip a certain two strands, the system is not redundant and would fail completely if the bolt blew. Also, absolutely NEVER clip all four strands in the quad’s masterpoint. It’s not redundant at this point. If a bolt fails, it’s a total system failure and anything clipped into all four strands will be lost. Proper use of the quad on multi pitch involves splitting the masterpoint with two strands for your belay and the other two strands for your tether and not clipping anything above the limiter knots. Please seek real professional instruction before attempting to “guide” new people with no credentials, especially on multi pitch.
@LouDude50215 күн бұрын
All four stands were never clipped. No guides here. Friends climbing with friends.
@bubbyb0i696715 күн бұрын
@@LouDude502 at 6:15, your partner belayed you with his grigri clipped into all four strands, as well as his personal tether. Did you even notice that? Let’s say the left bolt blows, both you and him are plummeting to the ground. Sure, you are friends climbing with friends, but they’re very new to this and they’re looking to you as a guide and mentor, yet you’re teaching bad practices and all of you are none the wiser.
@LouDude50215 күн бұрын
@@bubbyb0i6967 first, you don't know what you think you know. Second, I remembered clearly correcting several things with the leader off camera. 1st thing you don't know. I admit I must have forgotten that he clipped all 4 stands though I know I would have seen it and corrected it. Second thing you don't know is that I was never in any real danger because I was also on bottom belay by the third climber on all pitches. Hence, my failure to have an OMG I could have died reaction. I knew mistakes were likely. The third thing you don't know is how much training/certification I have had. You assume too little. As for guides, they do some of the most sketchy stuff I have seen and are not absent from the annual climbing accident and death list. As for the whole shelf issue, that's gonna have to be a difference of option. On a bolted sport belay, area above the restrictor knot is not optimal but definitely not a catastrophic blunder you make it out to be. I typically like to use the higher point for one tether and my second on the master. Most people only use one tether. If one bolt blows the master tether would catch with less extension. Now for the whole SERENE thing. It's a guideline. There is no perfect anchor for a given situation. Even if using the master point of the quad, the quad has a fair amount of extension which violates the whole NO Extension aspect of SERENE. Sport climbers often use, and it is an accepted practice, just 2 draws for a top anchor for ground top roping. This is not SERENE. The fact of the matter is that modern bolted anchors just don't blow. Considering that one bolt could easily hold the car that we drove in, the risk of facing extension was minimal. If I were trad climbing, I would be hesitant to use this area of the quad. Probably would be using a different anchor anyway. I know you mean well, but your holy than thou all knowing and seeing attitude is very off-putting. Be well. 🤙
@Everheartt18 күн бұрын
Awesome! Would be nice to see the approach in the video even if it was sped up.
@LouDude50218 күн бұрын
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll snag that on my next trip out there. Thanks for watching 🤙
@AA-hn9nh19 күн бұрын
Yo Dude...good to see you're back. You've done that climb a time or two! I'd punch you in the d**k if you b***d about a belay when it was both top and lead 😂 Are you a guide now? You have inspired me. Going to do this same climb in 2 weeks. Stoked
@AlwaysAdventure_Ай бұрын
Nice shot! I'll be out at that crag this weekend. Where did you mount your camera? That is a great POV.
@LouDude502Ай бұрын
I mount my GoPro about halfway from the top to the front brim of my helmet with a curved helmet mount.
@brandonnelson94Ай бұрын
I just got into climbing this month. This is about 20 minutes from my home. I am still too afraid/not strong enough for stuff like this yet but I hope to get there some day. I see those rocks out there all the time and seeing videos like this is pretty wild and inspiring.
@LouDude502Ай бұрын
Glad you enjoyed the video. Smith Rock is magical. 🤙
@ejmiller3109Ай бұрын
Beautiful crack waiting to be jammed, what the hell
@tracycrabtree13832 ай бұрын
Thanks, my first climb. Started with Mike Norman, Charles Tabor, Mark steables,.I got some FA there.enjoy
@LouDude5022 ай бұрын
@@tracycrabtree1383 that's a hell of first climb. Kudos. Not hard. The gear on lead is just funky. 🤙
@jordanreding57292 ай бұрын
Hell yeah dude! Nice send!
@macmiller82932 ай бұрын
That's a fun one!
@LouDude5022 ай бұрын
It's so good. One of those routes to redo whenever you pass by.
@macmiller82932 ай бұрын
@@LouDude502 i agree
@lovelandfrogman96203 ай бұрын
This is the highest boulder wall ive ever seen 😮
@LouDude5023 ай бұрын
It's pretty intense. About 20ft
@gabriellynn44183 ай бұрын
You made that look easy, Lou! Hard to tell how overhung that was. I felt that reach for the chains though, lol. I hate when the last hold before clipping is just flat and ledge like. I'd take crimps any day over that! 😂
@LouDude5023 ай бұрын
The start is more burly than it looks due to the feet. It eases up after the third bolt. Great route. Thanks for watching🤙
@dangersh4 ай бұрын
Did this climb recently, really fun seeing the different beta. We considered that little climb up to the first bolt just part of the approach 😅. If you come up from the other side and do not use the rappel anchors it is a little bit easier to get to the start of the climb.
@LouDude5024 ай бұрын
Agreed the rappel anchors to the base of the climb are a little too much of a hassle to set up and find. Much easier to do the scramble down. I imagine those anchors were put there to provide some rappel practice for new climbers.
@jordanreding57294 ай бұрын
Nice work dude. You smashed
@LouDude5024 ай бұрын
Thank you. Pretty casual climb. Except for the widow maker tree 😆. Thanks for watching. 🤙
@MegaBeastlyguy6 ай бұрын
Are those permanent anchors/gear at the top? Or were those your QuickDraws?
@LouDude5026 ай бұрын
Those were my draws. My partner led it first and I pulled the rope because I wanted to lead it. This was a while ago. FYI: many routes in the Red are getting mussy hooks at the anchors, which makes cleaning a breeze. But this is the Muir and I don't recall seeing mussies there yet. Mostly in PMRP areas.
@manulakshmanan55496 ай бұрын
So crimpy, looks like a tough 5.9+
@LouDude5026 ай бұрын
Agreed. If you ever wonder what the + symbol means in a 5.9... usually means 1 or 2 grades lol. 5.10d also means 5.11b. thanks for watching🤙
@doraschinner6 ай бұрын
"promo sm" 💃
@progressivefrog36817 ай бұрын
A nice, clean and relatively recently put up moderate on a formation that at first sight looks much harder than it is. I've done it at least a half-dozen times & it's always a fun romp. I'd climbed in the quarry area for probably a couple of decades before it went up and never saw it. Kudos to the first ascent party that figured this one out.
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
Agreed. I can see how it got overlooked. Even though you can see it from the parking lot, it's was cryptic finding the first time. I hop on it every time I go to Vegas. Probably done it 4 times now.
@mattbarry59387 ай бұрын
I’ll be at the red this weekend, comment back if you’re around Miguel’s, I’ll come say hey
@bubbyb0i69677 ай бұрын
Dude, you’ve gotta stop getting up in your belayer’s shizz with the whole checking gear thing. It’s creepy and annoying. Have some manners and ask them to do it. They have hands too that happen to not be yours.
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
💯 Disagree. This is by far the scariest comment I have ever received. Here's your trophy lol. 🏆 It's called a "buddy check" for a reason. Not the belayer checks themselves. The belayer checking the knot and the climber checking the belay device is industry standard to reduce the chance of human error. Telling people not to do a proper buddy check is very irresponsible regardless of your experience as a climber. This could cause ☠️☠️☠️⚰️⚱️💀.
@bubbyb0i69677 ай бұрын
@@LouDude502 I know what a “buddy check” is my guy lol. Actually read what I said. I never said to not do one. I’m saying you getting your hands down in people’s shit and tugging on the grigri like a tool is frankly rude and annoying. Do you even let them know before you start reaching towards their crotch? How about check each person one at a time deliberately and not just a random process. Have them show you the belay is on. They don’t need you tugging on them like a dingus. Nice attempt at playing gumby guide though. You do it well.
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
@@bubbyb0i6967 buddy checks requires physical and visual inspection. There are things that I look for that not all people do. It's my life, I wanna be sure so someone doesn't have to carry me out in buckets. For instance, it is possible to clip the gri gri without clipping the cover plate. This is very easy to miss on a purely visual inspection. The device will still auto lock upon testing. This can only be checked by locking the gri gri and moving to the side to confirm it is correctly clipped. I have tested many climbers on this and pointed out their visual buddy check sucks and they could have died.
@gabriellynn44187 ай бұрын
Lou, I've watched a bunch of your videos and I know you can climb harder than 5.8 so I have a question! In my experience at The Red, I will occasionally get blind sided by a grade and think "What the hell? This seems a lot harder than 5.X!" Last time I was there in October, I hit up a 5.7 in South Park that I just said screw it on and grabbed the chains after taking 2 falls. Yet, I know I can lead up to 5.10a maxed out. Were you totally pumped out here, or did you also have one of those "What the hell? 5.X my ass!" Moments? Lol, because I almost tried this climb at the end of a session once, but was pumped and opted for Nana and George next door, lol. Wendy looks pretty damn stout for a 5.8 to me, so glad I didn't swing it. 😂
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
It's mostly because this was at the end of the day. We did 8 climbs that day. The start is pretty stout for an 5.8 which is pretty gorge standard. The top was sketchy for me because I did not like the tree right behind me. Plus the whole Rock thing Brooke my focus. So a fall didn't seem too clean. I don't get to caught up into grades these days except for trad. There's a lot of financial investment and risk involved.
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
With that said... I've done easier 5.10s lol
@gabriellynn44187 ай бұрын
@LouDude502 Haha, fair enough! I mostly climb 5.8 sport, but I broke into 5.9s during Rocktoberfest and a single 5.10a called Kentucky Pinstripe over in Global Village. Clocked around 60 outdoor leads last year, so I'm not beating myself up when I hit "the wall" so to speak. But lol, I always think "what the hell?" When it feels harder than I thought it was going to be. 😂 I just crossed 1 year climbing, so I'm just happy to be out there! Haha, climb on, man! 🤘
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
@gabriellynn4418 Kentucky pinstripe was pretty rough for me on that start. I was not a fan lol. Pretty cool up top though.
@gabriellynn44187 ай бұрын
@LouDude502 Oh, I agree with you, lol! You get over that damn ledge and then there's some gnarly slab until you're finally standing up on flat ground for a moment. I surprised myself that climb! I'm heading to Miguel's from April 17th to 21st for the first time out this season, and I may give it another go because I love warming up in the morning on Eureka! I put about 20 lbs on since last October, so I'll be haulin nearly 200lbs up the wall this time. I had a sedentary winter, but I'm about to shed some of it on the wall, I hope! Haha, at least on the hike. 😂
@jordanreding57297 ай бұрын
Clean and confident send. Nice job Lou dude!
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
Thank you. Especially for the 8th route of the day😂
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
This whole area is great for easy moderate trad. Enjoy. 🤙
@mattbarry59387 ай бұрын
Yeah I’m mostly a sport climber, but I’ve been racking up the mileage on moderate and easy trad in Tennessee, Alabama, and Kentucky the past year or so
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
I'm jealous. Everyone's so busy these days that all anyone wants to do is sport climb. Gotta keep the trad skills sharp. 🤙
@mattbarry59387 ай бұрын
Also I can’t wait to get on this route when I go in april
@mattbarry59387 ай бұрын
I love your content man, and I’m not trying to be an asshole, but it seems as though the first piece was pointless, you would’ve decked still if you blew it above that
@LouDude5027 ай бұрын
True, but it's always good to get a multi directional piece in on the first point to protect from zippering and not letting the belay going up any further on a higher up on the route lead fall. Thanks for watching and the comment🤙
@mattbarry59387 ай бұрын
Also true, that makes sense
@aaronswank9 ай бұрын
Are you guys climbing at the same time?? Are you on a fixed line or something?
@LouDude5029 ай бұрын
On the lower easy section we had 2 offset climbers with the lead climber belaying 2 with a tube style auto locking device. This was to save time as a 3 person group. It was cold and it might rain.
@nikkitangtiphongkul12979 ай бұрын
wow that look hard, good job👏
@LouDude5029 ай бұрын
The climbing at Smith is definitely a different style. Thanks for watching🤙
@AA-hn9nh9 ай бұрын
Sick lickins' Dude. I'd love to come and have ya gun for me. Looked like a really fun climb
@LouDude5029 ай бұрын
Ty. Maybe when the weather isn't crap
@wildernesshomefilms10 ай бұрын
I love footage of beginner routes, always nice to see what routes are like before heading over and there a lot of stuff on moderate/advanced stuff but never beginner routes.
@LouDude50210 ай бұрын
I'm glad you liked the video. My channel has over 200 routes covered in the easy moderate range. Enjoy🤙. Thanks for watching.
@skip186010 ай бұрын
What is with people wearing stupid shit while climbing
@LouDude50210 ай бұрын
If you mean tights. They are water wicking, SPF, flexible, and they keep ticks off you.
@skip186010 ай бұрын
@@LouDude502 the stupid designs
@prc762910 ай бұрын
Brought back happy memories!
@LouDude50210 ай бұрын
Love this route. Glad you enjoyed it too 🤙
@manulakshmanan554910 ай бұрын
Nice video!
@LouDude50210 ай бұрын
Ty thanks for watching🤙 dreaming of warmer days.
@bubbyb0i696710 ай бұрын
Serious question man cause I honestly want to see you do well. Why do you give up so easily? Almost every time you encounter a tricky crux or hard sequence, you immediately take or let go and fall instead of trying other options or at least downclimbing to a rest and scanning for better beta. Where’s the fight? If flashing routes, or even just sending, isn’t that important to you, that’s fine, but this is what it’s gonna take to become a better climber and climb your goal routes.
@LouDude50210 ай бұрын
Your error is that you assume my goal is to become a better climber. I have no love for chasing higher numbers or more stars. I climb for the fun of it. I don't care about on sighting, flashing, or other made up word used compare myself to other climbers. When I am on the Rock, it's just me that I'm competing with. I have certain injuries I rather not exaggerate. On the flip side, I will take a safe fall to get the jitters out. Ya know, practice falling. This is my climbing log book which includes success and failure. Thanks for watching.
@AA-hn9nh10 ай бұрын
Damn Dude....looks like I got my fix again. Love the videos. Thought you were done making vids
@LouDude50210 ай бұрын
Nah just been really busy
@manulakshmanan554910 ай бұрын
Thanks for posting this! How hard is the approach to get to civilization crag? We were thinking of carrying our baby there
@LouDude50210 ай бұрын
So civilization crag is probably one of the more complicated maze like approaches. There are probably hundreds of paths through the maze, but the most direct that I have found is fairly scrambly. If I were attempt to do it with a baby, I would definitely have some sort of baby backpack because you'll need your hands free in a couple of areas. The biggest tip in navigation, is located the crag visually from the car and keep an eye on it until your just about to lose it in the maze. Then pick it some directional land marks to head to. Once your in the maze it's very easy to start heading the wrong direction. Generally you trend up and to the right after the wash. A much easier approach would be Black Corridor and Hamlet Wall.
@manulakshmanan554910 ай бұрын
@@LouDude502 wow thanks a lot!!!
@manulakshmanan554910 ай бұрын
@@LouDude502 thank you for the suggestion of Hamlet Wall! For Hamlet Wall, is there plenty of level ground if we want to setup a tent and set the baby down? Thank you!
@LouDude50210 ай бұрын
@manulakshmanan5549 there should be plenty of room in the wash or the platform above the wash depending on how big the tent is. I have a video for Fralaty the Name is Sandstone which should document the area pretty well.
@manulakshmanan554910 ай бұрын
@@LouDude502 thanks a lot man! Really great suggestion to go to Hamlet. That's a great video, the belay area looks comfortable
@maddie407710 ай бұрын
Just wondering why clipping seems to be so hard in these videos?
@LouDude50210 ай бұрын
Lack of practice
@WalkerRacing Жыл бұрын
thanks for the vid. headed to the red this weekend and looking to get on this route
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
Futuristic Test Piece is right around the corner too. Funky but cool route. www.mountainproject.com/v/116179445 . Chester Fried chicken is next door to. Turkey crossing is further on East facing side of the holler. Thanks for watching🤙
@donnyh3497 Жыл бұрын
What time of year was this? We're going just before Thanksgiving this year and I hope it's not too cold for my wife.
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
Thanksgiving in the gorge can be 80s or 0 and snowing. Generally, that time of the year is what people consider the best time if year. Just wear layers. It's a South facing wall I believe so you should be good once the leaves fall off trees
@donnyh3497 Жыл бұрын
@@LouDude502 Thanks!
@aydendonall836 Жыл бұрын
climbed this my first time ever lead climbing last weekend, awesome learning experience!
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
It's an amazing climb. Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching🤙
@LongBoy.0 Жыл бұрын
lol what are you doing grabbing tiny crimps and little pebbles on a RRG 5.9. there's jugs everywhere how are you not seeing them.
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
I like crimps. Jugs are yucky 🤢
@matthewbeer2405 Жыл бұрын
nice job and sick video. just fyi, what you climbed is an alternative finish to earth boys skipping a big scary arete move. I think that's the anchor for ring of fire? the earth boys route finishes by going left up the arete and there's an anchor up there like another 40 ft or so, next to the anchors for dancer and jete.
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the info and watching. If I remember correctly, this was at the end of my trip to Smith and I was exhausted so I was just on top rope.
@matthewbeer2405 Жыл бұрын
@@LouDude502 sweet! No judgement from me! Just thought you might want to know!
@themeatpopsicle Жыл бұрын
FA in 1996, climbing was a different world back then
@AA-hn9nh Жыл бұрын
Yo, Dude. Sick Lickins' my Brethren. Is that some new INK on the skiers Right? Maple is sick as a 5.15d in Bolivia (not enough balls for the bite) if you know what I mean 😅
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
Lol. Nah. I've had that for a few. No new ink for awhile.
@jaycrisp536 Жыл бұрын
The most beautiful view I’ve found in the gorge
@rgr195 Жыл бұрын
super fun line. tic'd it as we walked out
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
Hopefully you had time to do Grampa Joe and EBGB and Robotic Thumb too. Those routes are amazeballz. Thanks for watching 🤙
@kylefull Жыл бұрын
Looks like a fun climb. I’m looking forward to hopefully getting on this one when I go this weekend. Felt a little frustrated for you though, you were short roped like hell on like every draw.
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
Yeah, that happens. I think we were both rather rusty 😆. Great climb though. The Summerville lake area was also a beautiful climbing area, highly recommend checking it out while in the area. Thank for watching🤙
@kylefull Жыл бұрын
@@LouDude502 Yes! Only going to be there for 2 days. I have both guidebooks. Hoping to get on some fun ones. Weather is looking optimistic so far!
@iankeck3419 Жыл бұрын
Looks like a fun route.
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
It was very chill🤙
@AA-hn9nh Жыл бұрын
Yo dude, looks like sick lickin's to me. One question...I always thought the aim was yo have your gate opposite of line of travel. Seems like you and I may be Irish Twins and just do things opposite.
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
Good question. There seems to be 2 schools of thought on this. I used to like gates opposite to the direction of climbing which typically keeps the gate from being opened against featured protruding rock. These days I like gates towards the direction because most of the time the gate is not opened on flat or overhanging rock. I feel more comfortable this way because the rope during a fall would slide along the spine and not the gate. Since the gate is the weakest part of the carabineer and the spine the strongest. More of a personal preference. Sometimes on featured rock, I will switch it up if the carabineer lays awkwardly or is opened. It's always a good idea to watch your pro after to pass it to make sure everything is laying correctly before it's too late to fix it. Anyway, I've seen it illustrated in official climbing manuals both ways being correct. Thanks for the question and watching🤙
@ryanmoser6246 Жыл бұрын
Throw the whole belayer in the dumpster
@garryleannon Жыл бұрын
P r o m o s m
@anngeyman3880 Жыл бұрын
Did you name this climb after me???????
@LouDude502 Жыл бұрын
Exactly 💯. 😆. Unfortunately I did not name this route. Both of you are short and tough though🤙