Can a partition wall be built on an existing second floor on a single floor joist (12" engineered wood I-Joist)?

Best video!! Thank you!

Hey, I’m a little confused. It looked like you use the same type of board to go back. I must’ve missed what you said. I’m doing the same corner shower in an existing bathroom. It just has regular drywall in it. I bought some hardy backer. I think it’s maybe quarter inch, can I just go over the existing drywall with the hardy backer? OK I went back and watched the video again. It looks like you put the hardy backer over the new green board, correct? can I just put the hardy backer over regular drywall and also under the new shower pan, Is there any type of membrane or anything different? I have existing linoleum that I want to just put it over.

Also a good option when you’re trying to maximize views out of a window. You don’t have to look at the overhang.

Have you done an updated video on construction in humid climates? Couldn't find one

I know it’s an old video, but if building a shed this way would I need a vapor barrier or would you recommend having one

Wish they would make more interesting houses like this instead of just box like cookie cutter homes

Do you have any material on how to add a hip style roof covered porch addition to an existing low pitch(4/12) gable roof. Is it possible? Also, the issue is that the home is a single story residential home with standard 8’ walls. It’s a very plain and basic built home that is a perfect rectangle with no additional architectural designs/features. It’s a 27x73 rectangle right now. We wanted to change the appearance of it by adding a hip style covered porch that is 10 deep on the narrow end (27’ end of the home). Is it even possible to construct. Thanks

How to raise them inside beems higher this is my exact garage

a única parte ruim desse vídeo é que todas as imagens são IA

Gostei das imagens das casas, mesmo sendo geradas por I.A., mas gostaria de visto interior e casas antigas desse estilo pois são lindas, bem melhores do que as casas "clinicas" de hoje em dia

This is such a great video. Thank you!

Honestly you really need to have color ties. You can still have a tall ceiling. You just want them to span 1/3 of your rafter. Without them the ridge and rafter weight will be solely supported by the outside walls and over time will push them outward. Just my opinion ive seen many open spans like this fail

Is this available yet? I want to purchase one for my bathroom.

Two story 10x12 shed/house build?

It would be strange if I saw a set of stairs without them. You should also have a pair of blocking mid span hopefully drywall can go on soon after and hopefully you’ll switch to LVL‘s all of that will help keep your stairs, very straight and stable. But nothing prevents squeaks like PL premium. Even a smart idea to glue the framing materials.

OSB I-joists are no bueno in a house fire. Dangerous for the homeowner, extremely dangerous for firemen when the upper floors give way beneath them.

I just want to know how to secure the screen. I cant' find this information anywhere. What do I use stucco? Concrete? Glue? i'm cliueless and I guess everyone is supposed to be born with that knowledge.

Child's play...try getting out a four foot deep footing here in the northeast.

I'm glad i found this video. I drew a straight line 1/8" higher than my highest spot in the floor now at the lowest spot ive had to install shims like 1 ¾" thick 😮. Seems extreme to me but its the only way i was able to get everything perfectly level from the highest spot on the floor.

I got the problem where the grade of the house is going towards the house instead of towards the street..but luckily for me my foundation is high so i have room to put concrete around the house and slope it away..but i live in a house where i think used to be rural..and i think whoever built it wasn't thinking that in 50 yrs or more that iy was going to turn into a neighborhood with the street being higher than the grade of the house...

Very helpful information. Thanks!

1:12 - Surprised that worked for you. Chainsaws for the most part are a no no for palms, because palms (especially ones not dried out) are so fibrous and gums up/destroys the chain. Have you tried using reciprocating saw instead? 2:33 - And curious why hardware stores don't carry those hardwood wedges. Amazon order. 🤷‍♂

At 5:35 , I would reference 905.3 of the IPC. The 90 coming off of the back of the combo would technically be a short section of horizontal venting. Instead you would 90 the trap arm into a combo/wye/santee on its back facing up for the vent. That would make the vent connection above the centerline of the drain. I'm in oregon though and it is based off of the UPC with a few tweaks here and there but the same principle applies to vent connections in the code here.

not anymore ! replace with 1/8 inch mesh screens to prevent fire ember intrusion !

WOW!!! THANK YOU! very good instructor!!

How do I calculate the beam required to open a 160" gable end up for a large back window/door? The gable end already has a standard sliding glass door opening but I want to double that span. I tried to post a picture ... its a high ceiling which entends another 10 ft above the exisiting opening.

How long do I leave them in place befer removal?now that is the question.....

Great video and lots of great detailed information. question ______we/ my son and I are building his shed 20 ft long by 16 ft wide 8 ft high( not including the pitch of the roof ). we built a 22 ft long ridgebeam,yes ridgebeam,not ridgeboard,,, from pieces of , 2in x8 in wide x12 footers staggered and we also added a piece of 1/2 in plywood in the centre like a sandwich on its end for stand up end strength and the for good measure,we also use PL Contractors premium glue between that 22 foot long beams sides to plywood,so it will be now all glued to each other .we laid it in a "jig" so it would be with a 1/4 "uplift" in the centre of the beam,which we felt was good for compensation of sag,if for some reason, it do sag a small amount at the centre, in the future years because of snow weight in my area ( because there is NOT going to be any type support in the centre of the building to support that roof)).. ok ,so we let the PL Premium dry for a few days before we move that beam and now its glued togather permanently . so its ( crossection) is now exactly 4 inches wide and 8 inches high and is a 22 ft long ( these 2 extra foot is for a 1 ft overhang on each side of the building. the question is ::::: is it ok to use a "birdsmouth " cutout on all of the rafters ( measurements of the rafter is 2 x 6 x10 ft long ( excluding the 1 foot overhang) to fit on the RIDGEBEAM??? will this make it stronger by using a 1/3 birdsmouth on the RIDGEBEAM???Some people say it will be stronger to use a birdsmouth on top of this ridgebeam, because it is nailed/screwed down on top of the ridgebeam and also on the 8 foot side wall top plate..some people say it do not make any difference how the rafter is attached to the ridgebeam?. i personally feel to have a birdmouth at the ridgebeam and screwed/nail down through the top of that birdmouth is stronger then to screwed the rafter on the side of a ridgebeam with screws and or nailed. of course, a birdsmouth cut will be used on the wall plate as normal for attachment ty in advance for your thoughts and input ty.

Interesting. Good music,

i have lots of deep puddles in front of my house, which is asphalt . Can i drill a hole ??

How do you go about drying it just normal fans and time?

I’m at this beginning stage of my shed. I want to build my shed on uneven ground. I would’ve liked to see posts added to your frame. I realize this was made 6 years ago. I appreciate the video

Thanks for the video. If I want to put a window into a stucco wall, can I just frame inside, cut exact opening through stucco, and install block frame window (no nail in fin), by screwing directly outward through the window frame directly into the studs, and then just caulk around the whole window? Will that make it waterproof enough? Will just caulking around the whole window make it water proof, as there will be nothing getting tucked around it, just caulk around it?

can you install a window that Is for concrete house on a stucco house?? I know the stucco windows have that flange all around to nail it to the wall.. the concrete windows type are all square

Use a piece of wood between the wall and pry bar, wide enough piece of wood so that it balances out pressure from prying

I’m a bit late on this video. We have negative slope out front. The water goes towards the house so there’s drainage up front but it couldn’t keep up because our neighbor’s rain water also runs to our front. Out the back we have low depression in the middle. Though it’s not near our house there’s still pools of water. I’ve asked drainage contractor and the solution is for yard drainage and gutter drain system. But this is an interesting video about the slope. Who do we seek for advise about the entire property grade and drainage etc? Drainage contractor? An engineer? Foundation specialist? Floods manager?

I have a rambler with an A frame roof and am looking to add a recessed garage. These diagrams provide valuable visuals for what I want to imagine it would look like. Rather than elongate the existing homes roof lines (and risk looking like a trailer home), I’m hoping to incorporate a gable to add “elevation” and break up the monotony of an even longer rambler. Having a hard time visualizing what it would look like

Hmm, I’ve been thinking of building an house using ICF to the roof. Here in Colorado, we need R49, which requires about 15” of blown in insulation. I had thought of just pouring the wall 18” or 1 extra course of Nudura ICF block higher than the ceiling to allow for up to R58. I never knew it was called a “raised heel roof”.

Why not drain in the shortest distance to the outside of the house then out to the sewer? This way you don’t have to dig up foundation under the house to fix a leak

got any details of the framing? that is what i need to see....

What's your thoughts on putting a shed on DG instead of a slab? Any tips?

I need to figger out for a 20 foot wide house to get a 6 12 pitch roof

In my situation we’re working with sandstone. So we can’t dig into the ground for setting concrete and a post. But I can drill, for rebar. And this project doesn’t need approval for inspection, so that aside.. Do you think we deal with movement concerns if the concrete block is secured to the ground via rebar and epoxy (drill into ground and drill into block, all told say 8 - 10 inches of rebar)? This prevents the block from moving at all. We also try to over compensate by setting them every 4 feet.

Hi, I just came across this video. We're doing an addition where the existing room is 15.5' and the addition is 30' wide. Also we have two gables on the 1st level on either side of the front door that are about 15' wide. Since the new addition, upstairs, is twice as wide we needed to increase the pitch from 3:12 to 5:12 so it looks the same / similar. Therefore the new addition roof will be about 6' higher then the intersection ridge as your second example shows. My question is, instead of having a hip roof from the existing ridge up to the new truss, can we have a gable end / dutch gable on top of the existing ridge with a level ridge board from the first truss? If so can you show what the gable would look like? Thanks Joe

Great video

I saw you in floor & decor today picking up some green tile for your counter tops. I wanted to ask you for your number but didn’t wanna make it awkward. I can’t stop thinking about you

Sawzall ding dong

Thank you this was very helpful. Is this formula is base on an 12' octagon?