Meant to include that in the video, but forgot... The twelfth fret should be half way from the nut (top of the neck) to the bridge. Measure the distance nut to 12th fret. Set the bridge that same distance from the 12th fret. Once you have your strings on, you may need to make some adjustments. To do so, touch one of the G strings right over the 12th fret - don't press, just touch, then pluck that string. Now, press the string down at the 12th fret and pluck again. You should get the same note in both cases. If the fretted note is sharp compared to the "touched" note, move your bridge a little closer to the tail piece. If your fretted note is flat, move the bridge closer to the neck. Once you get those notes sounding the same, do it again with an E string.

I think that is a great way to do it as well. A lot of people do it the way you do. However, I do not think that you need to worry about tension (or lack of tension) causing harm to the instrument. While there are a lot of people who concern themselves with it, everything I've read from instrument manufacturers suggests that this is not a real problem. Consider that when an instrument is manufactured, there are no strings on it, and that causes no problems. :) The best reason for not removing all the strings on the mandolin is simply because you have to deal with the bridge. This is different for instruments in the violin family. Those instruments have a sound post that runs from the front of the instrument to the back, underneath the bridge. The sound post is held in place only by the pressure between the front and back, so removing all the strings at once can reduce the pressure enough that the soundpost falls.

I'd be livid if marks were made on my mandolins, and bridge is supposed to be moveable when strung.

@@TheBellmare Well, people made more than just marks to decorate their instruments... Would a few marks hurt it? Unless you have a vintage instrument by Stradivarius, then we're talking! I don't own any mandolins yet, cause they're rare in my region of SE Asia, but I've seen a few expensive ones online and in the store, so I would be livid myself if I found even a scratch on it.

@@kairinase Decorating an instrument is one thing--sloppily making marks where they should never be is another (the bridge is moveable when strung deliberately, in order to adjust the action and centering of the strings on the neck, as well as make tuning with other instruments faster and easier when not exactly 440hz). When you do get a mandolin, or lute, or violin, dear Muhammed, string the center strings first, then the outer ones, so they are strung centered from the start!

@@TheBellmare Thanks for the tips.

Dohn Dunmire The bridge should line up with the points in the F holes on each side. Use a paper ruler or straight edge from the points on the F holes as a basic guide. Point to point!

I meant to show how to set the location of the bridge if you lost track. But I forgot. :|

The things I would check for - 1) make sure you aren't going an octave too high? 2) make sure you aren't using the A string and trying to tune it to E, 3) if the loop itself is breaking - make sure there is nothing wrong with the catch (a burr or nick that is cutting into the string) 4) try a different brand of strings. I'd be very interested to hear the outcome once you work it out.

Stephen Brown I think I’ve figured it out (although not before snapping another string!!). I’m not sure how to explain in writing, so on my day off tomorrow I’ll make a little video and post you a link, which will hopefully explain it.

Excellent point regarding the bridge!

Tom Kimbro (Thanks, I caught the error.)

I was thinking that too, but then I realized his string wrapping technique doesn't leave slack, so it wouldn't work for him.

Thanks for enlightening us all.

I've been doing this well over 50 yrs. The only thing different I would do is leave the bridge put; and change one string at a time. The wrapping around the tuner shaft as he describes works well for me on mando, banjo, guitar and bass guitar.

Let's see you do it Negative Ned, if you know so much. Everyone has a their own way of doing things.

Many years of doing this the way I demonstrated, I'm confident that it works very well. If you have another way of doing it, I'm okay with that.

Jay Gold It ain't wrong if it works. There's no one way to do these things.

Ya, Jim - I intended to show that, but didn't get that far. The distance from the 12th fret the bridge should be about the same as the distance from the nut to the 12th fret. That's a good starting point, but then you have to adjust because in practice, the bridge will need to be just a little bit further than that. Once the strings are on and more or less in tune, you play the sting open, then play it at the 12th fret. If the 12th fret is sharp, you need to move the bridge slightly closer to the tailpiece. If the 12 fret is flat, you need to move the bridge slightly closer to the neck. I'll try to put that video together soon.

Thank you for your help. This was my first time restringing the mandolin and you've given me the information I needed. Being a guitar player, I realize I will have to make minor adjustments for the intonation. Thanks again.

That's hilarious!

and not very thoughtful...

Don't judge the book by its cover

It a Rogue ,

@Gorgon the Argonian Dragonborn One issue here - even if you change one string at a time, you still need to learn to adjust your bridge as Anony describes - bridges do get knocked out of place from time to time.

Another way to mark the original bridge position is to use small bits of blue painter's tape. Easy to remove and won't harm the surface or leave any residue.

It's a Rogue....

Mini bikes And go carts what's wrong with rogue?