The cable should go from the starter solenoid up on the fender well to the starter. I think on my starter there is only one location to bolt the wire lug. Might depend on what vehicle as well.

@TylerCreates it is an 85 for E350 w/ 460. I drove it 50 miles with no problem but had grounded the alternator at the ground connector to the frame where the one from solenoid is. After that, is when it stopped running. I drove it home, stopped it , then in the morning it refused to start. Had to tow it to where I store it. I'M THINKING IT OVERHEATED THE SPARK BOX, AND KILLED IT, SO i Put in a new ign spark box, but still no start. Might have to remove the ground wire from allernators stud marked Grd. Never had trouble before that. I replaced the distributor Pickup coil, the regular oil filled coil, the voltage regulator, and the plug that went to the spark box from the harness, as it had a wire almost ripped off and exposed on one lead....it is the one with the side groove that prevents wrong hook up. I bought some dielectric grease from Israel I thought was a great deal. It was like 13.00 for a decent size container to use on connections. Can give you the name of product if interested. Just realised I forgot to plug both plugs in before trying to start it, so I will do that tomorrow after removing that cable from the Alternator and let you know if it worked. I decided to buy a motorcraft brand box this time. I even added 3.... 1/2" L tubular spacers 1/4 inch iD to lift up the unit to help it cool. Really appreciate your explanation of the ford system, there was something else I thought of, but can't recall it right now. I put that grease on 1/4" inch dia bolts that screwed through the units 3 threaded bolt holes, using the dielectric grease to hold the tubular spacers on while installing tubes over the bolts that go through 3 holes inside the fender well where mine is mounted, and used lock washers on outside fender well where tire is, and nuts to hold the unit tight. I think they are each like 1/2" long, and two of the 1 /4 " bolts that are approx 2" long are brass. Thought I might add a computer 12v fan nearby, to keep it cool, but that was just an idea . Thanks again for your time explaining it all.....other options were to use a chevy type dizzy with top coil, or rig up a chevy hei module someone showed how to rig up to the 3 ford plugs . That dialectric grease is supposed to be high performance, so, I can use it on the back of the chevy hei unit if I go that way, or on anything electrical like plug wire connectors. Sorry about being long winded, but anyway, I will see what happens tomorrow. That ground cable is like 2 Ga cable off the Grd screw on the 65 Amp alternator to the frame at the same place as the cable from the starter solenoid, so that might be why the module got too hot and was likely feeding back , not sure, as until I did that it never had any problems..... your video made me think WTF did I do wrong ? So tomorrow I will disconnect it first before trying to start it after hooking up the two black plastic plugs I fricken hate those plugs ford uses on its spark boxes. They should have has two squeeze tabs to help pull those mofos open when you need to pull those plugs off...pain in the ass. You're right about ford having bad grounds, especially on 2006 mustangs that aren't grounded properly at the alternators and as a result spike like 18 v destroying the batteries and alternators repeatedly , so when you park it it has a parasitic draw that kills the ability to start after a day or less. I did a repair for that problem for a friend who had that issue, and even upgraded battery cables to 600 strand tinned boat cable, and installed a 200 Amp mini fuse inline from the + cable to a buss bar before it on the firewall and went from a 165 Amp Alt to a 200Amp Alt.... that was compatible through an electric switch that was rated at 100,000 times, and put a on and off kill switch into the glove box where it couldn't be seen rather than test 3 huge fuse boxes left right and rear for parasitic draws, and after that all you do is shut off the ride, and turn off the glove box switch. To start, turn on glove box switch, then start the car. Never had another problem . So I know you are right about ford grounding problems ....they ARE shit. I built a special ground plug to fit into an oval hole next to the Alt in the frame that already existed that has a long bolt to go through the frame from above with the nut facing up , then bolted not only the ground cable to that, but an 8 Ga. Wire to the Alt frame with proper crimped connectors, changing both battery connectors too, and that thing really never had another problem electrically. So in watching your video, and thinking about what I did, I think my bolo was that adding a ground to the Alt to where the solenoid connects to the frame. I WILL HAVE TO LOOK AT A WIRING SCHEMATIC FOR THAT MOTOR HOME.to see for the E350. Why that cable is mounted there I have no idea. Have I lost you yet in my explanations ? By the way I felt your lighting in your video was fine.... wish I had done a video on that 06 mustang, it would have been great on you tube.....took me 3 months to puff out, but i think I did take some photos . Thanks for your video help....because I hate fords ......ps. I also did a complete rebuild a C-6 ford 3 speed auto a couple years ago, made it into a monster transmission, and never had built one previously.....,runs like a bat outa hell. Even installed a transmission oil filter on the return line . I can tell you how I figured out how to do it right if you're interested.....might make a good idea for another video for you. I am not a mechanic, but a retired machinist car enthusiast. NOT any better than you are. Thanks for answering, it helped me a lot.... jd

Hooked it all up today, but still no start. It is something simple, maybe I got a bad regulator when I just replaced it, but i did drop a wrench on the battery and it sparked. Oh I recall what else I was going to mention.....I also replaced the ign switch bolted on the column steering wheel tube, checked the acutator rod was moving it right and it is.. I noticed the wiring to the coil shoe was exposed inside the loom, sheathing missing. I am thinking it might need a new ign harness. But will think it over, they are around 100.00. Thanks again...I checked the rotor and it's turning. So can't be the dizzy gear. The cable out of solenoid goes to the block on right lower side of engine, but also has a cable hooked to a holding loop to just hold it up going to starter, so I think it must be positive ground. Hooking that cable to the ground on the alternator wouldn't damage the alternator, I wouldn't think. I just don't like fords very much. I put the reluctor in some rust remover to clean it up , I think it is supposed to have a magnetic charge, but with the new distributor Pickup coil, I wouldn't think that would be it. Haven't given up yet.

Before it sat it ran beautifully

I would say gas would be a good start, also check over your main electrical components / connections and make sure nothing has corrosion from sitting.

Same here, even with all the stuff in the exhaust!

Very cool info! Thanks for clearing some of my questions up. I will for sure have to look into the hydraulics before use. Where is the drawbar at on these tractors?

I don't know about your VAC because it has a homemade three point hitch. There was a L-shape bracket just below the PTO bolted to the rear axle housing. The drawbar had a little flat hook that went on the L-shape bracket and had a strap that bolted to the bottom of the rear axle housing. There was a large round pin that went through the strap and up into the axle housing with a 5/16 bolt that went into the front of the axle housing to hold the big round pin on. You may have to use a cross drawbar in the three point hitch? The VAC came with battery ignition and your model had lights bolted to the deck on each side. The Eagle hitch model had a step also bolted under the left side of the deck to get on because of the three point hitch arms in the back. Case made the eagle hitch to compete with the Ford 8N. But the 8N you had to have the PTO running to get the three point arms to raise. TheCase had live hydraulics which made it nicer. The Ford could lift just a little more so Case in the early fifty's had the dealers place a 3/8 inch washer under the relief valve so the oil pressure went from 850 to 950-1000 pounds for the heavier implements. The 8N had just a little more horse power as long as you used Ford's implements. They both used 10 bt 28 inch rear tires One other change that Case did was that that the VAI the shift pattern was 1-2 and 3-4 not the 1-3 and 2-4 that yours has. And the VAI also turned up a few more RPMs because it came with 10-24 inch tires. In 1951 the VAC got the steering changed/ the brakes changed, and they went to 10-34 inch tires which helped the traction. The VAH came with 10-36 inch tires. Tom.

Good to know on those random parts, also thanks for the input!

Yeah I ended up having to retime the magneto and that seemed to have fixed that awful misfire.

Works pretty good, don't sound to bad, and cheap!

The doctor didn't seem to think so or mention it.

​@@TylerCreates I'm new here and barely aware what your channel is about. Because you responded to me I'm gonna subscribe. Keep us updated what actually is/was wrong with you