More than helpful, it's bad news. A is unstable to hook up manually, so it's not going to work as well when properly regulated. I knew Ford was B, but I didn't know Chrysler and Delco 10SI were A.

How did you secure the items in the shower?

GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY IN THE NAME OF JESUS CHRIST FOR MAKING AND POSTING THIS VIDEO 🙏

Great American car. Thank you.

This is the first I have heard about a Ground side switched circuit being called an " A " circuit, and a Power Side switched circuit called a "B" circuit. Good general explanation except you are confusing current and voltage. If you have an A circuit , you do not put current on the field coil, you put voltage aka potential on it. There is ZERO current. There is no movement of electrons aka current, until the ground side is attached to ground to complete a circuit loop.

This is an awesome explanation of how these circuits work. Thank you for such a good educational video! You couldn't have made it any simpler to understand.

This is a complete waste of time. No fault found, no disassembly and technical testing ( armature or field coils, solenoid contacts, etc ). So all you really said was ' check battery voltage and cable connections.

What a crock! There is nothing wrong with the 6g alternator. Also, a 6g 135 - 140 amp alternator is available from any parts place. If you find yourself going through alternators, find the problem. It’s often related to the batteries cables and grounds. 😊

What would cause a B style to overcharge 15.7v?08 Jeep Wrangler.Thanks.

I took apart my gm 1980 oldsmobile delta 88 307 vin-y v,-8 engine four barrel carburetor, starter and notice I didn't have a brake washer on it.Can I install one .The starter is an autozone rebuild.Do they still use the brake washers in the 1980 gm starters or did someone rebuilding perhaps did not install one? .

I'm very interested on the price on the 130 amp and 200 amp alts. I have an 06 ford f250 6.0. Thanks

Ok so I just replaced my alternator in my 2010 Ford F350 because of battery light staying on. When we replaced it we noticed the positive connection to the alternator was scorched and the plastic around it was melted. After checking I see I have a fuse link that runs from the alternator to the battery in that positive wire and also the red wire in the connector to the alternator like alittle discolored at the connector. Could a bad fuse link be the problem since both attach to the battery?

I have a question, the alternator connector, the orange wire does have current, but the red and green wire does not have current, and if I put the key in the on position, the orange wire drops a little, its voltage is minimal, but the red and green wire gives it voltage. of 1.9 v, what function does this wire have and where does its connection go? My two batteries are new and so is the alternator 135 amp 2003 ford f450 6.0 diesel

Great video guys… Just curious, Can the bed go down when the slide is in?

Beautiful rig!

One question, I have a 2003 Ford F450 6.0 diesel. I found three cables that are under the alternator on the left side that the rats bit and I don't know where they are connected because on the right side of the alternator there are two separate connectors with three inputs each. Can you tell me where? They are connected and the alternator does not charge my batteries and it is new with the two batteries and I think that those three cables have something to do with it thanks

Where do you get the alternator thats already got wired or am I able to do it myself I have 2 small wires on my alt and that medium thickness if I ain’t getting power to the hot medium wire what could cause that 02 7.3

Thanks for making this video. I have just pulled the brake assembly off the shaft without realising it had a one-way clutch and didn’t note which way round the clutch worked. Now I know!

Will this resistor work with a 12v battery charger that has a 2 amp trickle charge setting? It also has 10A and 50A start settings. I don't have anything that puts out 4 amps.

I'm stupid as a stick when it comes to auto electrics. But having said that, after listening to what you said about the 14 gauge wire from the ignition switch to the S terminal on the solenoid, not being big enough, why couldn't one just replace that wire with a 10 gauge wire? The only place I've been able to find that assist spring (1932209) is ebay (which I don't use) and by the time I get it to my door here in Canada it would be more than $50 anyways.

Six Volt BATTERIES are Very Expensive and they’re hard to find used that’s why a lot of people just go with the 12 volt including myself.

Hello. Great video. Will these starters fit an earlier top mount 1943 A?

I greatly appreciate this video. thank you sir.

Thank you for a great video

What do you do with the rest of the wiring going to the alternator when you change your system to a one wire system? Is there a adapter harness or do you just abandon it?

Excellent description of the differences in circuits and development and changes in charging systems over time!

Where do I purchase the 130 amp alternator?

Great video I have a 1999 F350 7.3L powerstroke dual Lu. My truck runs great until I hook up my fifth wheel RV. My alternator light on the dash flickers when I turn the lights on at night. Is the alternator not being able to keep up with the amps or voltage required? I will purchase a plug in voltage gauge.

I've been having trouble getting the tiny nut back on the starter because the fusable link is so close to the terminal end. Didn't know it was a fusable link until now though. So I should be able to purchase one at the Auto store that sits a bit further down the wire and cut the old one off and splice in the new and heat shrink some protection on the splice? Does this sound like the best option? I was also considering putting a few washers on the starter bolt and solving it that way. What option do y'all recommend? Don't know how they got it tight at the factory. It's a 88 Chevy c35 by the way. Clicks but starter don't turn over. Starter was good and I replaced the positive end at the battery and trying to get this little wire bolted back onto the starter to see if issue is solved

Use AGM batteries. They don't corrode.

I bought a pa performance alternator one wire for the second time the first one quit after one month...The one wire goes into the wiring harness, should I've run a single wire to battery? If so what about the harness wire?

How to safely jump start a 6V system with a 12V vehicle?

🙏🏿🙏🏿🙏🏿

My generator on my 1948 IH Farmall Cub tractor uses a cutout instead of a voltage regulator. Will my generator recharge my newly purchased 8 volt battery as such, or will I still need the 6 to 8 volt switch and resistor you offer?

I could not agree more. I drive a 1940 Ford which is stock 6 volt positive ground. I keep reading about people who are convinced that they must be converted to 12 volts. So many people do not understand about proper cable size and clean connections. GREAT VIDEO!

3 drops of 3-in-one oil on each of the battery terminals at every oil change and it'll keep them looking brand new. I've had my truck for 23 year's, still has the original alternator. Lazy people pay in more ways than one 🤣

Does this work for the first generation powerstrokes

Thanks for the video. I rebuilt a 1947 Farmall a, by using high compression pistons. It’s a beast to turn over. I was thinking of going to 12 V simply for that reason, but you are making me rethink that. The current 6v starter just doesn’t cut it. Any advice?

Great video, but I would *really* appreciate a clean diagram showing exactly how you had the solenoid wired up when testing it isolated in the vice. Alternatively, it would have been nice if all the wires were clean and colour coded. It's hard to tell what goes where because they all go out of frame.

After starting the engine, later model 12 valve Cummins (1998), how many watts or amps does the alternator put out without headlights or vent fan running? Is the battery charging continuous or does it fluctuate? Also, will you be making a 180 amp version for these earlier model trucks? Thanks.

I love that era of body style... Even though, I do own a '53 Dodge Regent four door... I still like yours better 👍

I was looking at a competitors similar product, but after watching this video I will be getting one from this shop. Thanks

That system I can do for a rx-7 1985

Hi there, removed my starter , then wanted to see what was not working. I connected an earth jumper cable to a different battery and to the body of the starter and the positive cable to the battery and then to the positive 'pole' on the solenoid. The starter spun immediately but the 'shaft' with the gear on it ,did not thrust forward. Any ideas, thanks in advance .

I had the 51 4 door Cornet

what is your address so I can send you may regulator a new one

I just put a reman Carquest alternator on my 2004 F250 PSD (single alternator, passenger side) Also replaced both batteries. Tests show the alternator is charging (mid 13s, bumped 14ish once) but the battery light on the dash remains illuminated. I checked volts on the connection plug ports and it shows about 12.5 on the green and only about 1.2 or so on the other. I think this is why my battery dash light is staying on but not for sure. I'm worried that something could be getting damaged despite it showing good volts to the batteries, i.e. charging. I'd like to take the Carquest alternator off, return it, and get the 130A one-wire you guys sell. Will installing the one-wire alt. and eliminating the plug turn off the dash light? And, more importantly, will I need to upgrade any wires by bumping up to the 130A? Thanks in advance for the guidance and videos!

Thanks for the video. I'm changing my 860 to 12 volts now. I am putting on LED lighting, electronic ignition and would like EFI at some point, so 12v is the only way. I've seen others saying there are no changes needed on the starter. I guess I'll find out. As long as the only harm is to the starter rather than the ring gear I'm not too worried if I trash a starter over time.

Brilliant clear video

Excelente