My friend Roger, who is mentioned in the video, is a graduate of U of M and a BIG wolverine fan.

Thank you for your comment. I am glad the video helped.

I believe it is to protect the user from any flying sparks, metal fragments, or debris from the grinding wheel.

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the response.

@@edwardlyon8169 your vary welcome sir

Sorry for the delay in responding. The sites alone Lake Michigan require a western wind direction from ~8 to 14 MPH. To fly Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore requires registering at the Park Office, free and simple, just show them your USHPA card. They will give you a map. There is a club, Green Point Flyers, located near Frankfort. They have a nice launch and club site. There are also two good walk-in sites at Empire and another one in Alberta. Both sites are free and no registering is necessary. Check with Green Point Flyers for specifics. Hope you get in some great flights!

@@edwardlyon8169 thank you for the information! I was under the impression that Empire Bluff falls under the jurisdiction of Sleeping Bear Dunes and therefore requires registration…is that no longer the case?

@@Andyg2g Whoops! You are correct. Empire Bluff does fall within the jurisdiction of Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore. Registration with Sleeping Bear NL allows paragliding at both Sleeping Bear and Empire.

Would enjoy hearing about your paragliding experience if you care to post a comment.

I am going to sleeping Bear Dunes this weekend... is there any advice you can give me before I go check out the sites? I am a fairly new pilot - was hoping to take a couple sledders and ridge/dune soar a bit.

Were you able to separate the connections? I had to remove the parts on the original switch to separate the contacts but was able to make it work. Hope you were successful. Ed

@@edwardlyon8169 No. The contacts are really welded together. I am still working on trying. Looking to see if I can buy the parts somewhere. I am also replacing the hook latch in case there is a bit of wear. That seems to be a culprit in the fail of the switch.

Andrew - glad the video helped you. Thank you for your comment. Ed

I had to change the latch hooks coming from the door. Mine had worn down and would no longer depress the toggle switch when it was closed. Thanks for watching and good luck repairing yours.

Hi Stan, You have a very interesting issue. The only thing I can suggest is to unplug the microwave and test the switch with a multimeter. Does the switch close and open as expected with the door open and then closed? It is possible the switch is defective. Can you open the switch to see if there is a defective part inside? (If it is melted, this will not work) There are no places in Columbia which sells these parts. Check out ebay, your best bet. I had to buy mine from GE online. If you can find an after market one, that is your best bet, especially if it melts again. Good luck. Ed

Great to hear that. This is exactly why I made the video.

The cut out to allow the squatty potty to fit under the toilet bowl is 8 inches long, 3 inches in the center, and 2 inches on the sides. It is concave. This cut out matches the toilet bowl in our home. Your toilet bowl may be different. You could use a piece of paper to cut out the actual size of your toilet and then use this as a pattern. Hope this helps.

If you used your method the top of the stool would be straight on both sides. I angled the sides to reflect the natural position of the feet while sitting, toes pointing out. I used a 36 inch board and there was no wasted material, except the saw dust from the cuts.

Ah! The proof is in the pudding! If there was no wastage, then great! With the way I was explaining, there should be no wastage either. Imagine a 17" long plank with the corners labelled 1L, 1R on either end of one side, and 2L, 2R on the other side. The L's and R's denoting the left and right sides of the plank. Measuring out and drawing a line between the 9" along one of its long sides and 8" on the other long side would make a diagonal line. When this line is cut, you should get two symmetrical pieces. Thus on either piece of cut timber, one side should be straight, and the other side should have that slant, measuring at 8" on one side, and 9" on the other. With the full 36" piece of timber, the remainder of the plank would then have square angles all around. Sorry for the long winded explanation, but without diagrams, or a video, it is hard to explain what I mean. Keep up your great work Ed :)

+Luis Elias If I understand the question correctly you are asking about the angle of the two legs. You are correct that the stool slopes toward the front. The front is 1 inch shorter than the back. When cutting the legs, I cut the legs 9 inches on the top of the 3 feet board and 8 inches on the bottom. Be sure that the legs are on outside of the board. The piece in the middle, between the legs, is the top of the stool. Hope this helps. Ed

and if you are lucky it wont get broken during shipping

+Heidi Walker Thanks for the smile. Great way to start my day.

+Know What Mom Knows Thank you. Go Gators!

The white cheap-looking plastic ones are about $25. The wooden oak ones, like the one in the video, are about $75. But it has nothing to do with money. Some people, like me, enjoy and take pride in designing and creating a good looking product.