Tricky question, I did the same and it does work really well plug and play style. To maximize the throttle body increase you'd want to update the MAF voltage as to match the higher flow. There are videos out there on how this can be done, it takes time. I would recommend a pro tuner. Phase two would be to increase the MAF housing in addition to the 80mm TB. I should have a video on this soon!

did you ever find an answer to this question? I just installed the j37 TB on the stock Intake manifold and haven't touched the ktuner settings.

@@Acc15ord no lol. In hondata there's a section called throttle flow vs opening where you take the difference in percentage of the j37tb vs j35 and multiple the values.. Some guys are telling me to do that in the dbw section on ktuner, but that just modifys the sensitivity of the throttle. So im lost as well. Ktuner admin is useless as well.

@@ns5337 ah. There was 400$ out the window lol. Hondata works with the 9th gen platforms? 🤔

​No, if you're running an intake an exhaust, it's good. If you're stock right now, you can run the 87 tune while turning off vcm and modifying the dbw tables, as well as improved shifting. Yea they do but it's much more expensive because there's more tables for tuning. ​@@Acc15ord

Yes I ran it on a stock intake, it’s only suggested you have an intake and exhaust for the best performance

Lowering too low makes you lose power. 5000 or 4900 is good wnoufh

You're still getting throttled with two wheels spinning since the Accord does not have an LSD.

Once you flash the ecu it automatically removes

Gotta save I fcked up not doing so

J35Y1

Interesting I have had no trouble when turning both off. I'll have to experiment. Maybe that's why my mpg is so bad now haha

Have you done any testing??

It's just a mid pipe lol If you were going to install piping that was a difference in the diameter of the piping size, then yes, that would create a noticeable change in the engine's performance. Wider piping = more high end power, less low end torque; narrower piping = less high end power, but more low end tq. If the sound doesn't bother you and you don't mind messing with the stock exhaust, a simple rear muffler delete is the best "bang for your buck" exhaust mod, in terms of performance and sound; this is assuming you haven't deleted any of the cats, which will cause the exhaust to sound real raspy and gross (usually on the I4 models). As far as I'm concerned, most if not all of the aftermarket mid pipes for all the 9th gen Accord's (I4, V6), are all 2.5" or larger, such as 3". The exhaust parts for the 9th gen Honda Accord tend to be pricey, so I would recommend going for a custom exhaust job if that's a cheaper option (piping, resonator/glasspack, hanger, flange[s]). The stock exhaust piping for the 9th gen Accord (I4 and V6) is 2.25" into a 1.75" dual exit, or a 2.25" into 2" taper for the I4 (2.4L) models with the single exit catback.

Where did you see this?

@@littlejohn_racing says in your video description

@@gilbertsanchezz3107 Turns out its part of the 91+ octane tune from ktuner.

Hey that's a really good question. I need to look into it a little more but it's possible the 91 tune disabled it in the background already. My test drive I didn't initially notice it engaging.

VCM delete should be the main reason for Ktuner lol. Useless if your looking to mess with the car, 1 less thing to break and minimizes uneven wear of internals.