You got it. Less talking, more action.

@@reikasdad no, I didn’t. They were already red and white on both sides. Where did you read that the polarity is reverse? I could grab an old speaker to test

@Howiefied I first read it somewhere on the RAV4 forums (it was just like a mention in the posts). I didn't think much of it until last night. I went to order the harness from a brand called RED WOLF (which some have used on youtube/forums), and one of the product pictures mentions that the polarity is reversed on the Lexus. I have a multimeter at work, so I was gonna do a simple voltage check, but its the long weekend and I saw your vid. Figure I ask you first

@@ToyotaCorollaCE 5 Pin 6189-1046 Sumitomo Male Female TS Series MAF Sensor

No part #, yoda generic plug

@@terrisonstewart277 it was a pain in the ass for sure. I did heat up the mazdaspeed pedals but it didn’t really help all that much. I used a flathead screwdriver and worked my way from the top left and went clockwise.

Yep same here, it goes pretty deep with the Kicker. It’s tuned to around 35hz, so it slams most of the classics pretty well. It ain’t mirror shaking bass but it’s a huge improvement over oem (ML or otherwise).

@@Howiefied appreciate you homie. Your video gets a like from me. I wanted to go with the 12 inch version but I’m not sure it will fit. I want to put it in the same spot. Do the speakers smack the floor?

@@shel1102 it doesn’t hit the floor, it’s designed to be downward facing and has a strip on either end to raise it slightly off the floor. It’s a decent setup for the wife. My lexus was running dual focal 10” in a sealed box with 1500wrms, you could hear scarface banging down the end of the street 😂 this ain’t that, but for a stealth setup it blows any of those underseat setups out the water.

@@Howiefied awesome. Yeah I’m not looking to be heard down the street but I would love to feel the deep bass again. I know it has the ridges to keep it from hitting the floor but since the floor under the storage isn’t flat, I wasn’t sure if it would sit evenly which may cause it to hit one of the peaks in the floor. I guess I will just have to try it and find out lol

@@shel1102 nah the ridges clear all those undulations. And I kept the factory soft foam bottom insulation just in case. It’s fairly flat tbh.

Yes, no clearance issues. Still sits flush as oem.

There’s not that much, from memory it’s a wheel brace and inflator. That can easily sit under the battery tray cover (ie plenty of open space there).

Yeah getting it on isn't the easiest thing is it.

@@Howiefied Your not joking! I thought getting the accelerator pedal on would be the worst, but it was the dead pedal that proved the must difficult, 4 hours work. Thankfully never to be repeated.

Thanks!

@@xNoXiDe standard car electrical is about 20AWG I believe.

I have another video on wiring the reverse light also.

Most definitely though you’d need to also pick up the bumper reverse lights.

It would’ve been over half, how much I’m not too sure. I’d suggest using the multimeter method though, as the tiniest bump will make a big difference. There are better ways to set gain using special tools but the multimeter is the simplest and cheapest. But if you insist on doing by ear. I’d set it dead on half and slowly bump it up until it distorts and then back off.

Sick mate !

www.carbonmiata.com/shop/cm-st1-nd-a-led-2-pieces-sequential-tail-lights-turn-signal-amber-design-for-miata-nd-mk4-1149?category=361&search=sequential

I’m not too sure, it’s always an option, but afaik not even the 30AE had it stock.

That'll be a similar problem to integrating with the headunit. The RCC is part of the ND3 electronics package, you'll need to decipher what the ECM is doing in order to make this available. It's likely this is not going to be worth doing from discussions I've read online.

@@Howiefied I think you're right, probably too much effort to make this work. Pity!

@@han666 personally I’d just wait for a decent Android unit to come along.

That’s as simple as it gets really. Simple inline resistor bang you’re off to the races.

That's a good point. It's actually on the MX5 tail light disassembly procedure section in the manual (i.e. to cover the fender with painters tape). In my case the whole car is PPF'ed.

@@Howiefied so smart of them to put it in the manual since that tsb

That's correct, the indicators are also LED.

@@Howiefied If you place it in reverse does that trigger the tail light to indicate you're about to back up? I have deleted the lower reverse lights which is why I'm curious if the tail lights will re-introduce this feature. Any thing special needed for this?

@@xNoXiDe check out my other video on wiring the reverse lights.

They were around $450usd shipped from Japan.

@@Howiefied Thanks!

Im sorry i found a website which sells them for 900 USD. Can you share a link for 450 one ? Thats almost half the price im looking at. ​@Howiefied

They’re about 30pc brighter and just cleaner overall.

Possibly, they appear to have the same pigtail connector. Can’t say for certain without seeing one in front of me.

Here’s to hoping 🤞

@@Einzbrn I'm gonna say it's going to require some sort of canbus hack to work though. Which is not outside the realm of possibility, others have done this on other vehicle models.

I suspect that’s a negative on the infotainment. The dash is actually different, and the canbus system controls the car features.

@@Howiefied How about ND2 infotainment in an ND1? I found a used one I could buy. I don't like mine with the silver trim and just how slow it is.

@@DaveSimkus the ND2 infotainment is just as slow tbh. You could just swap out the bezel, there’s a Miata forum thread on the swap if you really want to do it.

What is the nd1/nd2 infotainment difference ? I thought it is the same

@Cateyes86 I think the ND2 has better contrast and colors on the display and the bezel around it is gloss black instead of silver. I assume it's a little quicker to respond than ND1. I think that's about it.

N452-51-150 (lamp R) N452-51-160 (lamp L)

Reverse is the bottom lights, at least that’s how it is in Australia.

@@Howiefied Interesting, I though they removed the bottom lights on ND3

@@joez1375 maybe that’s what the green wire is, when I get a chance next I might run a probe. Shouldn’t be too difficult to run a tap to the bottom reverse lights if it is the case but I’m trying to keep the wiring splice free at the moment.

@@Howiefied i assume the reverse wire is hard to access from the trunk and you have to tap in from the cabin if you wanted to use the new one?

@@lawrencelin272 I'm not too sure actually, I haven't checked yet. But shouldn't be too difficult to tap into that, after all it needs to come back up through the cabin anyway.

There’s a few online printing services (eg shapeways that can print with any of these files). Reasonably inexpensive and great quality. I get most of mine done there now.

@@HowiefiedAwesome. I will check them out. Thanks for the quick reply!

@@Howiefied What material is best to use for these? PA12? I see a lot of options on shapeways. Thank you!

@@JHolt-zu6of I now only do in ABS buddy.

Glad it helped!

Hey Verbo, first you need to verify this bracket will fit on a GSF. They might be the same, I can't tell as I don't have access to a GSF. But if you're stuck on getting this printed still, let me know on my instagram @howiefied

@@Howiefied They're the same for the GSF. I'll DM you on IG

Yep I made that also