Hello Martin, I am glad that I found it! I am glad to own one, too. Mine runs great and I try to maintain it well so it will last longer than me! Thanks for watching! All the best to you in Germany.

Nope. Took them down to a local shop in had them pressed in. Didn't have the video recorder with us at time.

@@bjohn8059 fair enough

Thanks.

How much did that cost for removal and installation?

@@michaelchamberlain1688 I knew the guy that had the shop and he pressed out the old ball joints and installed the new ones at no charge he wouldn't take any money from me. It probably wouldn't take more than an hour or so. So would probably cost you an hour of shop time.

No, I did not show you how to repack wheel bearings and install the seal cuz I figured if you were in this deep you know how to do that. In video #4, I showed you how to reinstall the right front hub and adjust the wheel bearings.

​@bjohn8059 thank you sir. I will go review #4. Your effort is greatly appreciated.

If the sign is up it's illegal to drive without them in our area!

Hi Salvatore, when replacing the nylon washer the bevel goes towards the axle shaft. As for the small seal in the end of the spindle the channel goes inward towards the nylon washer on the axle shaft as it seals against it. Hope this helps thanks for watching. BJ

@@bjohn8059 i have to say, I have learned so much from your 5 part series. I keep rewatching over and over these last 3 months. It has been a slow go with this heat. Just for clarification, the nylon washer bevel faces towards the differential or towards the wheel.

@@salvatorelivreri Toward the differential. Glad you like the videos. A few sections got left out because we had camera trouble but once we switch cameras things went better.

Great choice!

When I did the video I put the end of the tie rod in the vice. Then I took my wrench and loosened the jam nut. Then I was able to unscrew the tie rod end from the tie rod. Just remember you're dealing with the steering of a 5500 lb vehicle and if you're unsure about anything you should check with a professional before proceeding. Good luck with the rest of your repair! BJ

Hi Salvatore, glad you and your son are enjoying the videos. 1) Yes you have to take the rest of the rotor and spindle off to get access to the ball joints because you have to remove the front axle shaft, then you have to remove the steering knuckle from the axle housing, then you have to press the old ball joints out of the steering knuckle and press the new ball joints into the steering knuckle. 2) once you have the axle shaft removed from the axle housing, you can determine if the u joint on the axle shaft needs replaced by its age and/or condition upon inspection. 3) No you don't usually have to replace the centers of the drag link and the tie rod unless there is damage or unusual wear. The ends of the drag link and the ends of the tie rod are what wears out and you can unscrew them from the main shaft of the drag link and the tie rod and replace them with new ends. Remember this is steering and brakes you are talking about so at any time you have any doubts about making these repairs yourself please consult a professional with front-end experience to help you complete your repairs safely! Hope this helps; good luck with the repairs!

Here are the 2 that I own: shop.advanceautoparts.com/find/chevrolet-k10-spindle-nut-socket, and www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w1269/make/chevrolet/model/k10#applications. I like the 2nd one the best. You should be able to find or order one at your local parts house. You're welcome on the video and thanks for watching! BJ

@@bjohn8059 Thank you so much!

@@SP-wk1en You're welcome.

You're welcome John.

Glad you like the videos but with less music. When I made some of these I used a couple of songs that were supposedly copyrighted so KZbin changed the music and the new music they put in was a higher volume and there was nothing I could do to lower it. When I originally made the videos I just had light background music so you can still hear me discuss the repair. Thanks for watching!

You're welcome. Glad my video helped you out! BJ

Hopefully you can find some!

Never too late, Briley. Glad to hear that my video is helping you with your Yukon project. All the best, BJ.

The clip is part of the turn signal assembly and it's on the outside end towards the fender. It's plastic and flexible. The other end of the turn signal assembly that points toward the center of the vehicle just has a tab sticking out that end and it goes in a slot in the core support. When you see it you'll know what I mean.

You're welcome J. Glad my video helped you out! BJ

Hi Dick, glad my video helped you out, thanks for watching! BJ

Thanks, Jimmy. We're glad our little video helped you out!

No, my new end wasn't shorter I just forgot how many turns I made when I took the old one out. We had to stop filming then go back and rewatch the video in the camera so I could put in the new end the same number of turns I took the old one out. So there was a little intermission there which I ended up cutting out of the video. Afterwards we took the Blazer down and put it up on the hoist and set the toe in. It was only off by about 1/8 inch.

No they shouldn't!

You're welcome Oscar. Glad to hear my video helped you out. BJ

Thanks rmp! I'm glad my little video helped you out. I never turn down free beer!

Thanks for the compliments. I'm glad that my video helped you out!

You're welcome, Mr B. Glad it helped you out, thanks for watching. BJ

Great Brian! Glad to hear my video helped you, thanks so much for watching!

You're welcome. Glad it helped you out.

I think you're referring to the daytime running light bulb socket and wiring loom, which is the left one, as you're looking at it from the front. From left to right looking at it from the front you have the daytime running light, then the one with the Orange bulb is the turn signal, and the last one is the side marker light on the far right. BJ

You're welcome! Thanks for watching.

I always do, Speed. Anywhere something is bolted together for a long period of time in a wet environment it's a good idea to use it. This Blazer is my snow plow so it gets a lot of moisture in the undercarriage and wheel area and I don't rotate the tires every year. When I do come to take something apart, it comes apart easily and it's not rusted together as was the case when I worked on it this time. All the best, BJ.

@@bjohn8059 thank you sir,they have anti seize with nickel,aluminum,etc... and then they have one on amazon with a combo of aluminum,copper and graphite which has over 8000 reviews and 5 stars brand is permatex do you have a preference?Is it best to get one with just copper or is the combo i mentioned ok? Thanks again!

@@speedwayman100 Hi again, Speed. I have both a can of Permatex brand and an older one that has I think just has copper in it. They both work good. They've added a few things in there over the past 40 years. If Permatex is using more ingredients it must be okay. BJ

@@bjohn8059 I appreciate it sir,thank you!

@@speedwayman100 You're welcome!

Thanks, DM. We did feed the dog but we didn't think we needed to film it - lol. Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed the video. BJ

If you're Dad made you watch, tell him he's got good taste! BJ

You're welcome, Mark. Glad my video helped you out! BJ

Thanks Ernie, it's a great song!

Well good luck, Ernie. With mine I used lots of a good quality penetrating oil, hammered on it with a dead blow hammer and waited. In the end I did have to use a chisel between the spindle and the steering knuckle but after it got started it came pretty easily. When I put the spindle back on and put a light coating of never seize between the spindle and steering knuckle and around the shanks of the studs. Mine was the worst I've ever seen and it came out fine so keep the faith, you can do it! BJ

@@bjohn8059 Thanks, I may just order spindles ahead of time!

@@Mike-vh5vy Well a can of Break Free might be cheaper than spindles. I slathered mine with Break Free then I hammered on it with a dead blow then I slathered it some more. I should have let it sit overnight. You might try that. Soak it good with Break Free hammer on it with a dead blow and then put some more Break Free on it and let it sit overnight. It might surprise you and may come off. Good luck either way, BJ.

@@bjohn8059 Might spring for a can of Kroil. It's pricey but really good stuff.

@@Mike-vh5vy There you go. I think the stuff I use was only seven bucks a can and it did pretty good. Keep us updated on how it goes. BJ

I'm glad to hear my video helped you with your repair. Thanks for watching, BJ

Sorry Collin. I was doing the same thing as I took it apart. Hopefully everything turned out OK. Thanks for watching, BJ.

@@bjohn8059 All good lol. But I was taking off the inner fender liner and removing the grill then grabbed my phone and withing 5 seconds you showed me how to literally just pop the headlights out with clips lol

@@collintrusty9203 Well Collin, I'm glad you didn't get too far till you found my video. I'm glad to hear it helped you with your repair. All the best, BJ.

@@collintrusty9203 I'm glad you had your phone handy and I'm glad to hear that my video helped you save a bunch of time. Thanks so much for watching, BJ.

You're welcome, Jack! Thanks much for watching. BJ

Hi Mike it's a Toyota Tundra, not a Chevy.

Thanks much. Glad you are liking the videos! BJ

I did not purchase any headlight assemblies from eBay. I purchased 2 turn signal assemblies from a vendor on eBay and they look better than OEM, they're not leaking, they work and look great after 3 years! Did you not watch the video?

That's great, Jacob! I'm glad my little video helped you with your repair. All the best, BJ.

You're welcome, Lito. Glad my video helped you!

Hi, Terry. Glad our video helped you with your repair! Thanks for watching. BJ

No, Gary they usually don't. In this case the rider was okay, but the bike took the worst of it.

Thanks Jaysen, I can still play it after all those years!

same

Thanks. Hoping my videos will help you with your repair.