Great info

I operate one of these for a utility company. Old vid - so I'm sure you've learned most of this by now, but I'll post anyway for anyone else. 1 - if you're going to lift anything heavy, ideally you want the boom positioned off the back of the truck. With the boom extended - esp yours being longer - you'd be surprised how easily the truck can lift off the outriggers if working off the side. 2- that boom CAN come down and hit the cab. Don't do that. 3- you'd also be surprised how easily that auger can be stopped when digging. A good size rock can jam it. Don't ever dig in high speed. 4- there will likely be a safety bypasses on that boom. Meaning, if you try to yank something out of the ground that's stuck, or lift something too heavy- the boom safety will kick on and stop both the boom and winch from lifting. You'll need to lower the winch to take weight off the boom. (It will prevent you from being able to lift the boom or the winch). The winch is stronger than the boom, but the boom determines how much it will let you lift or pull. If you get desperate - say youre trying to pull out a stump, old pole butt, ext - an easy way to defeat the safety on the boom is by lowering the auger - and using it as a leg. Extend / lower the boom, push the auger down into the ground and use it as leg to support the boom. Now you can use the full capacity of the winch without the boom overloading. This is sorta frowned upon, but it does work. If the winch safety kicks on - there should be a place on the boom to attach a shackle, and hook the winch line hook onto the shackle. This will double your pull capacity like a crane - but make sure you have a pulley / block rated for this - otherwise it will explode into pieces. 5 - the hydraulic lines in the rear are mainly to use a pull butt puller (nobody uses these) but you can get a tamper, jackhammer, water pump, that will run off that. Check eBay - you can find them cheap. I recommend the Stanley BR45 jackhammers for light/moderate work. You can get extension hoses for those hydraulic lines too. 6 - for those hydraulic lines, there will be a lever to engage the tool circuit to run them (diverting hydraulic fluid too it). You'll need to let pressure off them if you ever hope to connect/disconnect tools. Lower the idle if there's a hi/low idle switch. Shut off the tool circuit. Switch hydraulics from outriggers back to boom, pull the tool circuit lever the opposite way. It'll take pressure of the lines. If desperate - you can loosen a fitting to take pressure off. 7 - if the boom is out and the winch line is holding something - the winch line should still operate to while the hydraulics are switched to ground operation and the tool circuit is being used. This so the truck can still use the winch while someone is using a butt puller on the ground to pull poles. 8- you can get a Kelly bar adapter and Kelly bar for that auger - to sink anchors in the ground if it didn't come with the truck. You can sink anchors for poles, leaning trees, or even anchor a house to the ground. 9 - those claws are pole guides. They are strong, but not a strong as people think. 10- if a bucket were available for that boom - there would be shaft coming out of the side of the boom for a bucket. The pole guides don't come off. 11- you can likely pin those claws to travel with the middle or fiberglass section of the boom. If you ever pin them to mid section - you must remember to tilt the claws back fully BEFORE you extend the fiberglass boom. If you dont - the fiberglass boom will try to enter into the claws and you'll break them. 12 - the auger only travels with the middle boom. The boom must be fully retracted when you let the auger down, or try to stow it. It can get stuck and try to travel with the boom while it's stowed. The hoses can also cut trapped between the sections and they will be cut if you retract the boom onto the hoses. 13 - I'm sure u figured out that you have to extend the winch separately as you extend the boom. The winch line can also be cut if it's left slack and get caught between the sections. 14- if you develop a bad leak inside that boom - you're screwed . That entire boom will need to be taken apart. 15- we normally travel (drive) with the claws tilted down. When you stow the winch line, winch up will the bottom of the hook is about even with bottom of the claws. This way it's swinging all over as you drive. 16 - that fiberglass boom is mostly to save weight. It will flex, but "should be" as strong as the steel. For heavy lifts near the truck - keep the steel mid boom retracted and extend the fiberglass. It'll give you a little extra lift capacity. Don't assume it insulates the truck, cause some don't. Do NOT think you can put that boom into high voltage power lines cause it has fiberglass. Your truck will literally melt at the tires and catch on fire. 17 - get pads for those outriggers if you don't already have them. You can even make them yourself if need be - cause those outriggers will EASILY sink into soft ground. When they get deployed, you're not lifting the truck off the ground. The trucks suspension is meant to carry weight. You deploy the outriggers enough to steady the truck. Taking the bubble out of the bottom of the tires and taking some weight off the suspension is. enough. If you deploy them too far - you run the risk of not being able to retract them if there's too much weight on them. Then you'll get to play musical outrigger to try to find a pattern that will allow you to retract them all. LASTLY - that entire boom likely rotates off a small hydraulic motor thats held in by ONLY 4 bolts. These are special high strength bolts, and you WILL NOT EVER replace them with grade 8 bolts. These (likely) 4 bolts are the only thing that prevents that boom from rotating freely. Grade 8 bolts will shear off extremely easily, and you will be in a world of pain if they do. The markings on the head of those bolts will tell you what kind they are, if God forbid they ever shear. You can apply some side to side pressure on the boom, but not a lot. If you ever hear the sound of a bolt dropping onto a metal bed - STOP and make sure they are all still there. There is no magical brake for the boom inside that turret. It's literally a small hydraulic motor a gear, and the bolts that hold that motor in place which keep that boom in place. Speaking of turrets - it's a good idea to inspect the sides of that turret for rust and cracks right under the ring gear. Most of us utility guys use the boom to remove poles from the ground, (we aren't "supposed" to do that either, but it's much easier and faster than using a hydraulic pole puller) and those turrets can develop cracks or break welds after years of abuse.

I don’t have a tractor

Aluminum rectangle tubing

I hope you guys are ok.

Nice video, great approach!! Five yrs later (now) lumber prices have sky rocketed!!!😊

Worst video ever. And I fast forwarded the thing

Why can't you use the primer of "GRIPPER" This stuff adheres to glass & won't come off?

Thanks for the info. Looking for a truck like this to install irrigation pivots with.

lol I have that same air compressor and I also dropped it!! 😂 I got lucky that I installed a pull up bar in my garage that was really strong and was able to ratchet it upright. Didn’t have the tractor but man I feel sorry for those who do drop those top heavy IR compressors

If you pay for the materials yourself are you charging sales tax? I know you don't want to sales tax audit

I'm from south ga. I been sharpening for 25 more years I sharpen all name brand blade what you said in your vedo is correct. But I cN speak for these others guys just my self, I was raised in a saw.mill world ..I know about wood and what the blade suppose to do and how. All I'm saying is you haven't tried my work yet, yes I've got ahold of some crazy bands these so call bandsaw sharpeners do

Have you thought about a couple of loop handles like the industrial remotes use?

First time watching Charley +Sarah, felt I knew you guys for years. Was hoping I'd walk out my door and had you guys living next door lol.

Do you have to remove the bottom tile from the shower wall? Is this absolutely necessary?

Looking like junk for firewood. You can't get anything good from agly wood

Why did u sale out no businesses

Loaded on sideways yrs ago, just let it sit few days, has worked fine 34 yrs or drain it. I tried pulling it up a ramp, after 2 times with hurt feelings i sats and thoughts how i got it myself yrs ago... on its side in my truck. Single stage if it matters

I don't cut logs to lumber for other people, only my logs for myself 😊

Est-ce que l’on peut l’avoir en français

I like the country music better for this content. keep up the good work.

Have you tried cutting maybe 1/2 to 1 inch on the return? (The wrong Way) and let it pull itself, while you are controlling the feed. Works for me and you save some work.

What the plan with just taking the top of each trunk? are you doing the rest on a bandsaw?

Good unbaised description. I have not seen them in real life, but they seems a little flimsy. The idea of a swingmill are good for small dimensions building timber but some homebuild looks nicer. I have an old homebuild but would like to put a bandsaw on the same so you get the best of both systems.

How do you know when you can no longer sharpen a bandsaw blade? how many millimeters (or %) can I lose to sharpening until the blade is too narrow?

KNOWLEDGE OVERALL EXPLANATIONS A TO Z YOU ARE MaHOMES IN THIS GAME BEST I SEEN SO FAR TAKE CARE THANK UU CHUCKYY

Beautiful family! I hope someday I can find joy like this!

I just received, or I should say picked up my LT 50 hydraulic with the Accu-Set ll system. I played with it today and that was the most difficult piece. I just watched your tutorial and it is by far the best I’ve seen so far. Thank you!!!!

You can also use Eco prim grip and then waterproof membrane on top before thinset.

The Lucas mill has scales that take into account the kerf of the blade on both the end frames and the powerhead. Sounds like you have a lot to learn about this mill.

Perfect explanation. Im sending this video to my customer. Thank you. Id definitely rather rip it out and start over.

i never heard of Lucas Mills. Just the regular names: Wood Mizer, Norwood, Frontier, Woodland Mills, and Cook.

When you say they bought 4x4 where they mixed tree or the same trees?

You gonna cut the loaf on the saw mill? 😂

When a man looks at his bare wrist and tells you it's about 8:20 you can 1) don't trust anything else that man says. or 2) assume he has a much cooler wristwatch than you. Normally I'd take option 1, but this time I'm going with door #2. How's the battery life on that Roleks?

I had a Peterson mill WPF 10. I had nothing but problems with the mill got a woodland mills 30” cut that was so much better. Now I have a LT40 hyd which is so much better than both.

First off, comparing a Lucas mill to fully hydraulic bandsaw mill is an apples to oranges comparison. 1) My Lucas mill is very accurate on it's cutting dimensions. It has scales on both vertical posts and a scale on the carriage. If I want 2", I get exactly 2" just like reading a tape measure. I'm really lost how your mill could not have scales. 2) Yes, the mill is going to move when the rails are almost 5 feet of the ground and you push it with your shoulder without the center post installed. I've never had a cut affected by the type of movement that you show. When the blade is in the cut, it is nearly impossible for it to be pushed off unless you purposely run into the rails like a linebacker. 3) If your cuts are not lining up and you have to make the same cut twice, you have a definite problem with your blade and/or basic alignment of the carriage. Your blade is too dull or your tension is off on the blade. Try a new blade or send it to a saw doctor to be checked out. 4) I don't see the wear surfaces as a problem more than any other machine. The carriage rollers are nylon and won't eat into the frame. They are easily replaceable. The carriage lock is made from pvc and costs $1.00 to replace. The posts are metal on metal but you are winding them up or down by hand at extremely slow speed and only once every few minutes. That would take 15-20 years of use to cause any noticeable problems. A light coating of grease or silicone spray on the posts once a month is all you need.

There is a sidewinder that you could add. When I bought my used Lucas the mill was in a lean-to with the rail supports fastened to the back wall to reduce the movement of a shoulder bump

What year was your mill manufactured? I suspect many of the issues you pointed out have been fixed on new models. I know most swing blade sawmills have repetitive sizing guides to ensure consistent board dimensions. As you know there are other manufactures of swing blade sawmills (Peterson being the most notable), I would contact them and see if there is anyone in you area has an ATS or the WPF model that you can look at. There you'll see what you're missing quality wise compared to the Lucas.

What will you do with your pine slabs? Even kiln dried, planed and sanded. We can hardly give them away in my neck of the woods. Do You actually have a market for this stuff?

Sharpening the chain on the mill works but it is really awkward to do since the bar is horizontal. After the 1st time with a file, I bought an Oregon electric sharpener and haven't looked back. I can swap out a chain in 3-4 minutes, 2 minutes if I have help. It is much faster and easier to swap the chain instead of hand filing on the bar. I do portable milling and this way my customers aren't paying me to sharpen chains while I'm on site. The electric sharpener also allows me to keep the left and right cutters equal otherwise the chain will want to wander off a little.

Why not sand first, then use the tile primer?

Get yourself a Harbor Freight 4-lb cross peen hammer.. Knock that crap off with one swing. And save dem nuts...

Needle-nosed vice grips will help when pulling nails.

At 6 weeks and their refusal to use the new system, you should have cancelled the order and called Woodmizer or some other company..

😪 'PromoSM'

Are you happy with your Lucas Mill

Feed dogs dude😊

I am an Australian builder carpenter and woodworker I am 80 years old to Lucas mill works great on Australian hardwood how treasure for a five times heavier than your Douglas fir and they are fantastic in Australia where you can cut housing material which is two by sixes 2 by fours and two by threes

Good