Maybe, if you have a trickle charge mode? Still fairly unlikely :(

@IllInformedHuman im not sure wat that means but ima assume I don't have that lol I just know it's a 5amp charger. But thanks for the reply I appreciate it 🙏

@@Mitch_Sti if that charger draws 5Amps at 120 VAC, then it needs 600 Watts! This thing can only accommodate 175 Watts.

@@IllInformedHuman dang good to know, thanks.

I found that out really quick! I stopped after getting the four boards I needed for a specific project. I then switched to splitting the trees into firewood instead, which is a LOT more fun than trying to mill them 😀

If you keep tools longer than a few years, those "creature comforts" make a HUGE difference. The most expensive option will stand the test of time IMO. But sure, you could get by with a cheapie. Watching both devices melt solder would have done nothing to show the differences in the products as they both heat up to the temperature needed to do that task. I don't know what you expected to gleam from seeing that happen... As the professionals know, most pots of tinning material are made of molten tin, with a zinc chloride flux. Simply calling it flux is inaccurate. And I hope you took your heart medication after watching this video as it appears to have stressed you out! If my review was that horrid, I would suggest filming your own conclusions. Thanks for watching non-the-less.

@@IllInformedHuman Regarding the tinning material vs solder & flux matter, I mean, we could go back & forth on that all day, but I'll admit, I was being a bit overly pedantic on honestly trivial minutia, so fair enough. point taken. Regarding the more salient criticism of the video though, I think you're missing the point of what I'm getting at, & in all fairness, perhaps I could have done a better job at communicating it. When I'm referring to things like creature comforts, for example, I mean things like how well the wire sheathing holds up to potential burns. I mean, sure, more durability is nice to have, but it's fairly inconsequential, especially if your using proper cable management practice to minimize excess slack of the cable, as doing so not only keeps the cable clear of the tip of the iron, but also minimizes the risk of things like bumping, unexpected wiggling or accidentally stepping on or otherwise disturbing the cable could cause the iron to jerk or wiggle in your hand, which you don't want in such precision work. What I mean by more valuable data is things like the tips themselves, for example. I mean you said the 2 had similar tips, but weren't exchangeable & that the cheaper one didn't come with a tip holder, while the Weller did. Again, nice to have creature comforts, but doesn't really give insight to the more work centric use cases. What is the availability of tips? What's the variety of tips? How well do they hold up under use before they start breaking down? How accurate is the actual temp vs the reported temp? How granular is the temp control? How consistent is the temp? how high & how low can it go? These are more use case specific details that I think are more salient because, I mean if you're just tinning & soldering together splices of decent gauge wire, heck, any soldering iron would do the trick, but if say for example, you're doing component level work on electronics, there's a lot more to account for. In that same regard, when working with surface mount components, sure a flat chisel tip could usually get the job done, just like a handsaw would get the job of carving a turkey done. But a curved conical tip would certainly be a much better tool for it. Knowing the consistency of the heat output helps you know whether or not you'd have to worry about whether that particular iron is going to reliably do the job of soldering or de-soldering the component, or if it's going to cook the good components or scorch the board or damage the solder pads due to an unexpected spike in temp due to faulty power regulation. Knowing the quality & durability of the tips, plus the availability of them helps to know if replacement tips are readily available & ho frequently they might need replacing. Knowing the range of the heat output is also important to A, help ensure that you don't destroy what you're trying to repair by frying it, but also B, in knowing what solder options are available, such as whether it can sustain the heat needed for lead free solder, etc... For comparison, I saw a video of a gentleman doing a side by side comparison of 2 hot air stations. Both were identical, except for in 1 very important regard. The air pressure of 1 was helped along by a fan in the hand held unit itself, while the other used forced air pressure traveling down the hose from the unit's base station. This is an important key distinction in functionality, because while they both can get the job done of de-soldering surface mount components, one does the same job much faster, due to the differences in the heated air pressure delivery. From this, it can also be gleaned that if, for example, you were trying to re-ball a BGA chip with a stencil & solder paste, with one unit, you'd have little issue, while with the other, you're gonna have a bad time. Anyway, I wasn't trying to be mean or anything, even though I was a bit snarky, I'm just saying I think that these details & areas of focus that are more salient to actual use cases are likely of more important to most viewers than things like the weight of the base station. I mean, I can't speak for others, but regarding the weight, if the cheaper one fulfilled adequately all the other needs, ok, slap some velcro or solid double sided tape on it & the table & problem solved. Non issue. I mean, for example, Let's say I had a bricked laptop that doesn't boot anymore due to corrupted or broken BIOS right? & let's say I had an identical, dead donor motherboard that had good BIOS chips on it, & I wanted to replace the bad bios chips on the otherwise perfectly fine motherboard with the ones from the donor board, giving me a fully functional laptop again. I'm not going to care about whether or not I'd have to 3d print a holder for the solder tips to keep them neat & tidy, I'd care about if it has the right tips & the whole unit performs consistently & reliably enough for me to confidently do the job I need it to do with the highest possible rate of success & ease. does that make more sense?

@@demitriuspandi9736 That does make more sense. At the time I filmed this, I just filmed the differences that I thought were interesting. I had just upgraded my soldering station which is why I had the two. I was excited to show off my new toy and didn't really storyboard or think to long on this video. My old system did great for what I was using it for, the only complaint I had against it was the quality of the materials, especially the permanently affixed cable that kept getting tangled! Which is why I focused on the material quality. If I was to shoot this video again, (I cannot since I threw the old soldering station away) I would add a soldering section where I compare the advertised tip temp to the actual. And how well it held the temp while soldering different scenarios. As well as have gone into more depth about tip quality. Maybe when I upgrade my Weller and do the comparison then :) Though, you have inspired me to think about making a "what to look for in a soldering station" video, using your points. And of course, I can appreciate a bit of "snark" It keeps the comments section interesting. Thank you for the feedback!

Yea, at this point I would recommend staying away from the 8Ah and 12Ah unless you plan on using them professionally and plan to swap them every two years anyway.

Sounds like the voltage drops drastically when a load is applied. Which means your cells are likely too far gone to be recovered.

There is a good change those were not authentic brady products. :(

Brady has a pretty good customer service dept. I would start there as it could be any number of issues.

I did not think this inverter would last long with daily or even weekly use (Thanks for confirming). In leu of a passive heat sink they threw an itsy bitsy fan in there, likely to make it compact. I think it is less of the smart chips going dumb and more that they decide to quiet quit.

They are pretty much the same printer, the new one just has the pre-sized labels. I personally love the pre-sized for labeling small organizers. So, I believe the upgrade is worth it, though if I didn't have that use case I would say keep the old printer.

Repair rather than replace, keep those darn things alive! Glad you found the video useful :)

Bro, I am so happy for you bro 😃 like that's supper awesome 🤩 I am so stoked!

A phone charger will always supply voltage, the phone decides when it stops accepting (Most common). Doing that to a raw battery cell will cause a thermal event. You need something that will monitor the cell voltage and turn off automatically.

Those two ventholes were plenty. Leaving the door open helped as well. Keep in mind that I am in Wisconsin ;)

No problem, I am glad that you found the info useful.!

I have never "Needed" to do that, I do so for convenience.

I am glad you found it well done, thanks for watching!

That would be pretty sweet!

I bought it through the dealer.

The building awning is done, unfortunately it houses my tractors and combine so there is no room for the truck :(

@@IllInformedHuman I see. I would just throw a blanket over the windshield. That's what I did in Colorado.

You can, default is upper case though.

I like the small size of the mav and I wanted the fuel efficiency as well as an opportunity to play with the new hybrid tech from Ford ;)

Fair. I have the lightning as you can see on my channel. So I’m partial and it only cost me 37k

@@ThunderandLightningEvPickup It is a fine truck! And at the same price as my gas F150

Thank you for confirming!

Thank you! We are all, at times, reliant on the algorithms mercy. I am glad it finally brought you here!

Thank you! With that 100mA charger, it takes about 45minutes to bring each cell voltage up by 0.1V. The 8Ah battery took a little over eight hours while the 12Ah took the same time, due to less cells being undercharged. Using a beefier charger would reduce the time drastically. Though, slower charging means a cooler cell, which helps preserve the battery life.

Wondering, if a m18 pack goes bad, is it possible to identify any remaining good cells and salvage them for use in another pack that has “bad” cells?

@@chriscoco547 After fully charging the pack (At least as high as it will let you) when you open it up and check each cell voltage, the ones that are closest to 4.2VDC would be the "good" ones. Unfortunately, the cells are tack welded onto a strip of metal during assembly at the factory, so harvesting them is fairly difficult and not advised.

I do my best, thank you!

That looks like a 60W potentiometer controlled solder station. Since it does not have a screen, I believe all it is doing is taking in the voltage, stepping it down with a transformer and then using the potentiometer to run over some simple heating circuitry (If not just running directly to the heating element). So, no you likely won't damage the solder station with the top off, however, don't be surprised if the thermostat needs to be turned a little higher than you normally have it set. Have fun!

Glad you were able to save some cartridges from the scrap pile!

I bet you could pull five bottoms with 73HP and 4-Wheel drive (Assuming you do this in the fall). The old rule of thumb was 20HP per plow. However, I found out from another farmer that the rule holds true for a 2-wheel drive tractor. I believe the the new rule should be more around 12-15HP per plow when you have 4 wheel drive engaged. Worst case scenario would be that you have to unbolt one of the plow bottoms, so why not go with the 5 bottom plow!

I am glad it eventually found its way to you!

Glad you liked the video! I am sure you will get many years of hard work out of that Massey, happy tractoring!

Thank you!

Sounds like your wiring and code do not match. Make sure you have all pins wired correctly. It could also be a voltage issue, on UNO/MEGA use 5V for VCC pin, on ESP/STM32 use 3.3V. Otherwise it could be that your reader is broken, or the model you have is not the same as the typical chineese one used in the video.

120V*11.8A=1,416W Which is greater that the 175W this unit is capable of supplying.

@@IllInformedHuman thank you

It doens't tell yout that most cards have a key that's only known by the one that has issued the card. Without this key, you can't read anything. Otherwise it would be much too easy to hack bus tickets or credit cards.

I assume you are talking about what the manual refers to as the "service position". They say to run the wipers while in accessory mode until they are in the middle of the windshield unless obstructed with snow and ice. For "wiper park" it states that the mode will be active whenever you switch on the side mirror heat. The only precautions for wipers are to leave them off when going through a car wash and to not run them on a dry windshield. It does not state that they cannot be left in the service position. It also does not bring up that you can leave them in service position, thus the debate. I will assume you don't actually own a maverick since you have clearly not READ YOUR MANUAL!

😂

@@IllInformedHuman but now it's resistance meter not working after I open it😭

@@myshticaanimo2169 It might have never been working!

@@IllInformedHuman hum I'm going to buy new one

Thank you for the info!

Kubota MX6000

The thought did cross my mind, I did not have a zip lock when I filmed this video 🥲

Adventure is a good description, thank you!

Excellent point!

I am pretty sure I have no choice at this point!

I just posted an image of the stand with the dimensions on my "Community" tab. Please reference that for more detail. Key dimensions are: 26" wide, 66" tall with the bottom of the bracket being 4" from the top of the footing.