El primero 😂

It’s commonly known as a “hydro”. Nameless performance hand brake with reservoir. Custom caliper bracket, brake and lines.👍🏻

I ll give that a try on my next one 😎

instagram.com/eastcoastdriftschool?igsh=MWJ4ZHNlY25jZmcyag== His name is Chris, send him a text via insta and he will set you up 👍🏻

That’s interesting! If it’s like mine then it’s on there under a slight bit of pressure. Let me know how you got yours out.

@@SaleenDrift I borrowed a hub puller type thing from my neighbor and then it broke before getting my pulley off. Next I'll try autozone, then I'll resort to buying some specialty tool

Oh wow! That’s wild, let me know how it all worked out. I wonder if it’s rust that’s making it so tight. It shouldn’t take much to pull it.

Yep stock PCV works perfectly. It drains with a spring loaded nipple at the bottom. But after running this for a while now, I am finding that it leaks out of the spring slightly.

@@SaleenDriftthe can comes off. It’s just a bitch to take off so you assume it’s the metal pin. The metal pin is a oil release incase it gets full and oil builds pressure, it probably leaks because you have damaged it thinking it is a drain valve

Ah ok! I didn’t know that but I have never tried to drain it before. I figured the seal worn out or something.

Oh yeah it’s a pain if you don’t loosen up the fuel rail. There are two 8mm nuts that hold the fuel rail in place. Take those out and you can wiggle the fuel rail out of the way so you can remove the bolts that hold coils in place. After that you can pull them out. You should be able to access the plugs with a swivel.

@@SaleenDrift thanks for info! I did the drivers side no problem just popped the fuel rail off and I was good to go. Yeah for this side it’s a lot harderI’m gonna go buy a little swivel socket for the coils after work today

@@whatsupryandid you end up getting to the plugs?

@@SaleenDrift I did man! I ran into another issue now after putting it back together there’s an extremely loud whistling that I think is coming from the throttle body. When I took it off it had a lot of black sealant with the gasket and I didn’t add any I just put a new gasket on so I’m thinking maybe that’s the problem ?

@whatsupryan awesome! Yeah I have never used anything other than a gasket. Sounds like it should do the trick.

www.americanmuscle.com/mugtv8pocoai.html This is what I have. I did have to modify the part that hooks up to the intake a bit since the Saleen intake elbow is very awkward.

@@SaleenDrift Excellent. Thanks for your prompt reply. Much appreciated.

I don’t see why it wouldn’t be possible. The pulley is pressed on there much like the pulley on the crank or power steering are. Only thing to be mindful of is not damaging anything in the process.

Me too! I had Will at Hoop’s Performance build me something safe. Anything over 500 hp for budget drifting is too problematic and expensive 😅

If you are referring to the intake manifold, it is the intake by Saleen designed to work with the Eaton M90 SC. Does this help?

Nice! Sounds like a beast! It’s up to you, really depends on the tools you have available. To me, pulling the engine for a pulley swap is more work. Look into upgrading your tensioner as well.👍

@@SaleenDrift Thanks! The stock tensioner is a Motorcraft BT-68, it's not bad. However, I get your point...probably a steel billet tensioner (pricey) is the way to go, as my Vortech V7-JT doesnt hit top output until about 7k engine rpm. I'm hoping to bring that down with a smaller SC pulley and the bigger crank pulley...but still going to be in the 5K range I believe. Thanks again for the input.

Timing these engines are super easy. Doesn’t require anything other than aligning the chain. I did put it on TDC. It’s too much to write in a comment. I would google or KZbin the alignment process (not really a process). I know this doesn’t help much but I wouldn’t worry about loosing the timing as you take stuff off. I ll make a video once my block comes back from my engine builder.

@@SaleenDrift thank you so much bro!! I’m doing the same thing right now just got both head studs loose now I’m onto making sure the headers are unbolted from the exhaust

@@SaleenDrift I was looking for more tips in your video about the passenger side head did that one come out fairly easy ??

@@Livin.Lif3sorry I didn’t see your comment. How did it go?

Set it to the softest setting and you can extend it easily by hand.

Yep and for anyone else reading the comments, I recommend NOT using studs if your application is street with occasional track. Studs are good for track cars that require more frequent maintenance. It provides a more consistent torque during multiple installs and removals. BUT, it would also require you to remove more things out of the way to take the heads out when using studs.

It’s in the video, but you can use a flat head and hammer, go underneath the car and hammer the dipstick out by hitting the lip that’s flush with the block.

How did your project go?

I am interested! What gains did you get from porting the SC?

Got it straight from BMR. Yeah the stock one is super heavy 😆. This k member is supposed to have plenty of room for long tubes, but I personally have not tried it. I have shorties.

@@SaleenDrift thank u for replying my question.

Thanks! I haven’t tested them at the track but dang they were amazing on the road!

@@SaleenDrift thanks, do you think these shocks would work with a 2inch drop

@@nathanielmackinnon6738 I have steeda’s lowering springs and they work well with them. If you email QA1 they get back to you pretty quickly✌🏼

@@SaleenDrift cool thank you I have a 03 mercury marauder

@@nathanielmackinnon6738 oh man those are awesome!

The way I have drained the coolant on the supercharger overflow tank is by disconnecting the hose where it connects directly to the reservoir…can be messy. Let me know if you find a better method ✌🏻

Looks like an added safety feature in case your spring breaks, the wheel won’t loose contact with that hook that maintains the mechanism loaded under pressure. If the wheel skips the teeth and rolls back, your e break won’t work. I would put it back on 😅

@@SaleenDrift haha thanks, I’ll have to for sure then

I wanna say it’s on the passenger side fuel rail towards the front. Was just looking at a pic I took when it was on the dyno. Looks like there should be a spot for it there.

@@SaleenDrift thanks man I appreciate it,

Sounds like a sweet ride!!!

His name is Martin: +1 (631) 764-0157 No website just text or call $225 I believe

Thanks man

Have you thought about plugging your Silencer ports on your supercharger. It makes them sound great. And makes the supercharger more efficient. Definitely worth doing while you have the charger off

Sign up for my Facebook group facebook.com/groups/811632622580073/

Nah sorry, nobody ever replied back to me on that. I tried searching through forums also but no luck.

@@SaleenDrift I've already got everything to rebuild mine, well the snout, an i have a new sending unit for my boost gauge that don't work so the blower has to come off anyway.

That’s correct, fuel lines do not need to be touched at all during this process. Only time I ever had to mess with that is when I upgraded the fuel pump.

Sure! I try my best, join my FB group and we can hopefully sort out your setup. facebook.com/groups/811632622580073/

I have shorties, but during my research I read that the two methods to get those in are by dropping the K-member or jacking up the engine. Let me know what ends up working for ya.

I have bbks as well I just tightened the chains on the engine holder.. should fit

Oh that’s interesting! Nothing underneath the snout? Or anywhere near that front end assembly?

@@SaleenDrift absolutely nothing. I have looked all over KZbin and all over the internet. And the only thing that I see is they said it is a self-contained unit and does not need to be changed under 100,000 Miles. So I don't know what's going on I know that you have the series one because yours is flat on top like mine so it's weird you have the access hole in mind don't.

I am curious if either one of us has a different front end assembly from another supercharger that just happened to fit and the previous owner just installed it. Would you be interested in joining my FB group called Saleen Project Drift and post your pics? I am very intrigued.

@@SaleenDrift I don't have a Facebook. But I have inquired on a lot of videos on these eating superchargers and people tell me that there are not made with the access hole that yours has on the front of it on this particular model. It does have the hump where your screw goes in but there is no screw there and I have watched a lot of other videos that have the same hump with no screw, I'm wondering if somebody modified yours

Very possible, this is the first I am hearing about this so thank you so much! I posted the question on the SCOA FB group. I have seen this addressed before in forums and everyone points at the access port. Even the ones used in GM cars have some sort of access port for the oil. I ll reply as soon as I find out what others say.

Thanks! If I can figure out how to do it, anyone can ✌🏻 currently working on swapping out the head gaskets. Will post a vid with any tips and insight into the job once it’s all done.

Honestly I am not familiar with the series II, but quick way to find out is to look for that allen wrench type plug in the front or maybe underneath the snout.

@@SaleenDrift Haha I just did ! And yup bone dry unfortunately. I started hearing a grinding noise and I’m hoping putting oil in it will fix my problem.

@@SaleenDrift thank you for the video! It helps me just at least see a visual of what I gotta do!

@@stev3243 hope the oil change solved your noise issue. Consider joining my FB group Saleen Project Drift and post anything you like!

@@SaleenDrift I will join . It did in fact help I appreciate you posting this video!

That type of valve works on differential pressure. It uses vacuum (top port) to activate the valve based on the difference to atmospheric pressure. As you can tell in the video, if you connect the bottom port to anything other than atmospheric pressure, it causes the valve to operate incorrectly.

@@SaleenDrift I've seen schematics showing a line running from there to the little nipple under the rubber intake snorkle. If that's not true, what goes there?

@@somtwift I am not sure what you mean, but install it according to the schematics and let us know if it works well or better.

the lower connector on the bypass valve on my Lightning is coonected to the air intake. Its clean air, helps keep the bypass valve clean. You can vent it to the atmosphere but should put some type of filter on it to help keep the bypass valve clean. I don’t know why your bypass valve bottom connector was connected to the intake manifold. Good video. My arm on my Bypass valve won’t come up on idle, it stays down. So Im getting ready to replace the bypass valve. Also my IAT2 temps have gone 25-30 degrees hotter recently. I think its because my bypass valve went bad.

That’s awesome! I have plans that I am hoping to start working on as soon as it gets a little warmer out👍🏻

@@SaleenDrift cool man. I looked into doing the 8 rib conversion but I haven’t been able to find everything for mine as the 99 has a different timing cover layout and belt routing than yours. Are you still running the stock diameter pulley?

@@904Saleen that’s interesting, check out the video description. I listed all of the parts. Everything is from the F150, maybe the timing cover from the F150 and it’s pulleys might fit your setup.

@@SaleenDrift I'll definitely look into it. Right now I'm trying to figure out my idling issues. Replaced the IAC and TPS and done a vacuum leak check with a smoke machine and found no leaks. Idle stays high at about 1300-1500 and surges to 2000 sometimes. Starting to think that it may be the tune on the car that's no longer right. It has never been retuned and still has Saleen's original tune on it which I've been told doesn't age well.

@@904Saleen that’s interesting! My Saleen has over 160k miles and never had that happen. But, after my stage 3 cam swap, I took it to a dyno tune $400. Well worth it, he found the wrong vacuum line going to the fuel pressure sensor causing it to lean out under boost. If there is an issue, your tuner will find it🤘🏻

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Google pulley removal tool; harbor freight has a set. Sorry I forget the size. But if u get the set, you should be good to go.

Let me know how it goes! Super easy job! Took me an afternoon since it was my first time doing it. But now I bet I can do it under two hours. Installing the grommet takes patience due to its tight fit 🤘🏻

I wish I could have filmed it. It is a pain to get it to fit🤘🏻

Gregory Whited yep, the alternator needs to come off✌🏻