Then I did pretty well. I got mine for about a third of that, if I remember.

Yes, but I caught that before putting the covers back on it! :-)

I sincerely hope you used self sealing stem bolts​@@ScottGrammer

Exactly. I think it might have been more of a "head height" issue? 🤣

When the wood cabinet is used, they are the correct length. Units sold with just the metal bonnet and plastic feet had shorter screws.

@@ScottGrammer No. They sent screws that were too long even with the cabinet in place.

@@jackonthefarm5540 That's odd. Some Marantz cabinets had a wooden riser on the bottom that took the place of the large plastic feet, while others had no riser and were intended to be used along with the original plastic feet. They may have accidentally included the screws meant for the plastic feet along with a cabinet that had the riser, which used shorter screws. But at least you have sound again!

@@ScottGrammer I just backed the screw out far enough to stop shorting or grounding and left it loose. All is good.

The unit had been improperly repaired in the past, and in the right channel power amp, a transistor had been replaced with one whose Vceo (maximum permissible voltage between collector and emitter) was too low, and that transistor failed. I replaced it with a proper device, then set the bias and DC offset in both power amp channels. I also repaired some spots where wires had been cut for easier disassembly and then rejoined with yellow wire nuts. The controls and switches were cleaned, the unit was burned in for a couple of hours, and all was well.

Glad to be of service!

I think so.

He'll do, I suppose. 🤣

That's a fact!

I thought a long time about doing it, but I just had to. They take too long and I'm too busy.

Hi, Willis. No worries regarding the all caps. Click this link, www.redbankvintageaudio.com, and then at the top of the page that pops up, click on the word "More," and then click on "Contact" and you'll find ways to contact me. Thanks!

Glad you met with success! But... I wonder if something else was causing your overheating issue? If heat was boiling out of the vents on the cabinet, then that meant that heat from the transistors was making it into the heatsinks successfully, and being dissipated into the air. Changing the insulators won't change that. I suspect you had a bias problem, (the bias pots get dirty over time and the bias current can change dramatically), and you somehow moved them back to a position where they provided the proper bias? There are other reasons the amp might get too hot, but in any case, I'm glad you're enjoying your receiver now.

You can, but it won't work. You need to use real tinsel wire, and run it from the terminals to as close to the cone as you can get, say, not more than half an inch away. Once you've soldered the new tinsel lead to the old near the cone, glue the soldered connection to the back of the cone with black speaker glue. Simplyspeakers.com sells a kit for doing this, their part number LWK-1, for $10. www.simplyspeakers.com/speaker-repair-lead-wire-kit-lwk-1.html

Those are not actually the original knobs. They're the replacement knobs that were on it when the client brought it in, knobs bought at - wait for it - Radio Shack.

@@ScottGrammer Superb! Radio Shack - those were the days. We are lucky to have any electronic parts stores left anywhere in the USA. All that were around me are long gone. All the best to ya Scott.

@@welderfixer I was telling Ryan yesterday that he missed out by not having lived during the era of Radio Shacks.

@@ScottGrammer Missed he did. Ahh the smell of all the gear and parts. Had Best Buy beat all day long!

Maybe Ryan can do the lamp replacements on my C32 preamp, Scott…

Well, let's work him up slowly towards multi-thousand-dollar units. I think his next repair is going to be a Technics direct-drive turntable that I suspect needs its servo board recapped.

You did good, son. Get ready to get busy!

@grantbassett2048 perhaps but perhaps not. While it still has to power the motor, the power supply should not be directly connected to the audio outputs of the turntable if there is no preamp. I suspect you may have another problem, perhaps the wiring at the headshell. Or perhaps the cables for the audio.

Hi, Grant. I've had repairs shipped to me from all over, but none from overseas - yet! In any case, I think this video will answer your question about your turntable. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3mrha1uhNGMorc

@@ScottGrammer Morning Scott, sounds like that will be the problem! 🤞

The 1900 was the replacement for the 1700. As to whether it's better, that's probably a matter of opinion.

Definitely.

There's also something to think about with certain Pioneers, like this one, the CT-F8282, CT-F9191, and a couple of others, is that the clutch pack often fails due to a crack in the nylon. There was a fellow who fixed them beautifully by making a precision brass bushing that he installed to re-seal the cracked area, but he has been ill and I don't think he's doing it anymore. The other option is to glue the crack, but that's not a great solution. Fortunately, this machine's clutch pack seems to be in fine shape. I have serviced two of this model recently, both of which had good clutches. But I would not buy one unless it was in good working order, transport-wise. A good alternative would be a CT-F900 or 950, which do not have the clutch problem. They have their own issues, though, in the form of the Fluoroscan display chip failing.

Thanks, you too!

@@alanpecherer5705 I know that's right!

Speaking of rear-view mirrors, traffic had been stopped at that red light long enough for there to be a tail of about a dozen cars behind me, including a black diesel pickup riding my bumper so closely that I think I could make out the color of the driver's eyes in MY rear-view mirror!

It's completely stock, too. But it's a B300, as it does not have the midrange driver.

I would not be surprised.

If you listen to the ps1 scph1001 you would think this is a good thing. It sounds fantastic

Glad to hear it!

Thanks for your kind words.

Thanks for your kind words!

As for the length of the screws, that I cannot attest to. But as for the insulation of the screws, as I said in reply to your other comment, the transistor sockets usually have raised rims that fit into the holes in the heatsink, and they act as bushings to insulate the screws.