@abderrahimmark Thanks! I was at a couple places that made it difficult to make videos but I'm back to a good place now and going to start posting again soon!

@jameskosak6671 Yup, it's hard to complete the job if you're just busting nuts all day long!

@James-v2q2f Ya man, going to be wrenching as long as my body keeps me going! How you been?

Been great man! Just got my red seal a few months ago! Let’s grab a beer soon

@James-v2q2f Right on. Congrats on your journeyman ticket. That's something no one can take away from ya!

@VansCargo-pj7qq I'll have to try that out one day. We just got standard wire in our mig welder. I'm no master welder but I come in on weekends to practice and try to get better.

To add to my story, I have put new ones together on the 2.4l before without the tool and they run perfect. This is my first one with this issue.

@@thomasgoetz5375 What kind of issues? As in are you getting rough idle? Setting any codes? Are they new VVT solenoids? How did the old solenoid screens look? How does the engine look? Clean or lots of sludge/varnish? Is your cam constantly floating between 0-5%? Or just a bit of flutter after a rev then settles?

@@eurbanautotech Good morning, thank you for replying. This engine is supposed to have 30K on it as a rebuild. The front guide broke. I put a complete kit in it. It ran good at first, then I got the light. Code P0017. It has had rough idle and stalled out. I put in a new crank sensor and did a relearn. Then I put in a new cam sensor. It idles smooth and drives great. Still get the code. I even swapped out the vvt selinoids with the original ones. Thought I had it licked. Drove about 6 miles, shut it of and restarted it about 6 times. No cel. Went out and restarted later and the cel cam on instantly. The intake cam shows a variation of 1% at the most, the exhaust is constantly jumping from 0 to 5% variation. I just don't have a clue as to why?

@@thomasgoetz5375 The reluctor wheels for the cam sensors on these shafts can shift on ya. They're only a press fit and not keyed or anything. Typically happens from an overheat. They won't constantly float or anything. Just a one time shift which'll through your ignition timing off and get you timing codes. Otherwise if you're sure the timing is still good and hasn't jumped then it sounds like a phaser issue.

@@eurbanautotech I spoke to a Gmail tech today also. He hasn't seen that problem either, but agreed with me that the cam phaser is faulty. Cheap junk. I will know more tomorrow when I can back at it. I will let you know what fixed it.

@ivwshane If it's spinning progressively slower than I would suspect it's just a failing starter. If you have a poor connection on your main power feed or block ground then usually you'll get a no crank condition. Or maybe only half a revolution. Or maybe it'll crank good then the connection will go bad and it'll just STOP. When you have a poor electrical connection on such a high current circuit it'll usually go from "poor connection" to "no connection" right quick. So ya, I suspect it's just a bad starter. The motor windings are probably breaking down with heat. You could still check the connections. Install the starter. Pull the injector fuse or something to prevent the engine from firing. Then do a voltage drop on the power feed and ground. So one multimeter lead on the positive post of the starter and the other on the positive of the battery. Crank it for 5+ seconds and you want to see 200mV or less. 500mV or greater is DEFINITELY a problem. When it comes to checking the ground you only need to go from negative of the battery to a good clean spot on the engine block. And same thing for voltages. 200mV or less. If you've got a problem on the power feed then I pretty much only ever see that right at or near the battery terminal. If you have a problem on the ground then that's usually the main chassis to engine block connection that didn't get installed right when someone was in there. If you have a problem on the solenoid power wire then that won't cause the starter to spin slowly. It'll just shut off the starter. Good luck!

@user-gf8bj4dq9p Anything with an Allison transmission as this locking tool goes into the Allison bellhousing inspection port. Around 2020 Chevy started using their 6L90 transmissions behind the Duramax. Those ones use a big wrench tool that bolts up to the outside of the harmonic and you hold the crank with that.

@eurbanautotech I think you miss understood my question. These LLy, LB7, L5p, LBZ, LML. Just to name a few.

@user-gf8bj4dq9p Yeah, but they all involve removal of the harmonic balancer to replace the water pump. In order to do that you need some kind of tool to prevent the crankshaft from turning. That's about the only part of the process that can be tricky. The factory tool involved removal of the starter and bolting up to the starter mounting holes in order to lock the flexplate. This Lisle tool just slips right into the Allison's bellhousing inspection port which is MUCH easier. But regardless of which Duramax you've got, if you need to replace the water pump then the harmonic needs to come off.

Thank you. I didn't know that.

@user-gf8bj4dq9p No worries!

@zarshednarziloev5692 Thanks for watching! I got into making videos because I was working at a shop where I was the only mechanic other than the boss. I had no one to pass on the things I've learned or share the cool things I see!

@randymagnum143 Parts and labor to get this done at a shop will run you somewhere around $1500. A solid used diesel truck will run you 25-50grand. Heck, even a mile'd out old Explorer people are still wanting crazy high amounts for... If you've got a good vehicle that does right by you then it pays to fix it and keep it in working order.

@@eurbanautotech a ratty dirtymax = scrap

@randymagnum143 Nah, man. Diesels keep me busy. Fix em!

@StarHunter28 Absolutely!

@ranubalkan7773 Yup. 22110 gets you the whole kit with the socket, the locking tool for light duty trucks (2500/3500) as well as the different locking tool for medium duty trucks (4500/5500). Part Number: 22100 is just the locking tool on the light duty trucks (2500/3500). So if you've already got a socket (12pt 36mm or 1-7/16) then you only need 22100 which is much cheaper than the whole kit.

@josephbatta1730 Ah that's not good! I had that bite me on a Mercedes ML350 diesel. The thing was only 3 years old with 50,000km on it so I didn't think to test the engine but it was seized solid from not having an oil change in a couple years... I now put a wrench on every single engine before putting a starter in. No matter how new it is!

@anneross7991 I swear he's part raccoon as he can be such a pest but he's the best!

@nisalaravinda6631 Thanks!

Update, I did fix it. It was the module, at first direct ground will turn on the compressor but then when I got home it didn’t. Then I thought of just putting some Freon and guess what, it worked. I had no idea the AC compressor wouldn’t kick in without any Freon on it.

@matthewcraine9772 You sure do. I realized that not long after. Sadly I've put it off for forever. We have a week shutdown next week for holidays so going to finally replace them then... If you're paying parts and labor then it's cheaper to replace the shocks with original load levelling shocks. Harder to find parts now though. But if you're doing the work yourself then still a little cheaper replacing shocks with non levelling and putting in new mounts and springs.

@eliasbarnes8061 That's crazy. Where abouts do you live? We get some snow but don't use any salt or anything on the roads so mine have been fine. But I've seen all parts fail. Expensive and cheap.