best of luck!

@@bonbanh3240 I should report you

You can drain it out via a hose connecting to a bucket (for the disposable water) and mesh to filter out the emulsion from going into the bucket of water. There’s a few people that have tried it with success on r/screenprinting if youre looking for advice. Flushing emulsion of any kind is pretty toxic, its much better to separate it from the water and throw it out dry

@richardmartinez5040 thank you so much!!

I don't have the files for the biggest gearbox anymore. I find that stiff paper or tacky ink make this hard. I used Rives BFK paper and cranfield etching ink for my prints.

@ I understand! I am gona try new paper

I do have an idea in my head for a letterpress based machine. Maybe a mini vandercook style machine that makes 4x6 postcards really fast. I have too many ideas but not enough time T.T

I suppose if you wanted really long oval tortillas 🤔

usually, if i don't remove the 2nd etch, it'll muddy the color of the print. a lot of people use the color of the ink instead of asphaltum but I used asphaltum because my colors are already muted and it is less work.

@ thank you! That makes sense. I was making color prints for the first time yesterday when I made the comment. I made it using your method and it worked really well! Thanks again 👌🏼

In my experience people seldom grain stones perfectly flat. The scraper bar system can tilt left or right to accommodate for stones of uneven thickness to a degree. Also, most roller presses only accept matrixes 1 inch thick where as many litho stones vary from 1.5-3inches thick. People often print litho plates on roller presses because they are thinner and of uniform thickness. And just in 1 man's experience after having built one of both, roller presses can deliver too much pressure too easily, which might break a stone on accident if your stone is very uneven.

@@someprintdude Ah totally makes sense. When I've seen lithography stuff there is always rigorous methodology but never much explanation why. I appreciate you dedication to explaining the process in the video

yes! You could also glue on some sandpaper but I imagine sandpaper would leave crumbs after a while.

I did buy some to try, but then I realized the hole was bigger than my soldering iron and I couldn't think of a good way to insert it :')

Printing today. Going to use m8 inserts and likely use m8 stud knobs in lieu of the printed knob and threaded rod.

@@JustinLCecil I wish you good luck and good bed adhesion

@@someprintdudethanks! I think I’m going to give anti slip spray (rustoleum) a try instead of the grip tape. Maybe on the underside of the bed rather than the lower roller. TBD.

ur lucky I was in prayer when he uploaded this

$5 and i'll delete this comment so you can be first

This version needs a printer with at least a build volume of 220 x 220 x 205. I do have a mini version for v2 that only needs 180x180x180

@@someprintdude Thanks! The Bambu Lab A1 seems like a good option for me.

That one was about 8 months of trial and error, it works great but it leaks oil all over the table :( no plans because I kind of made it on the fly

It's homemade! I documented the process in my video "I made a suitcase Litho Press" you just need some woodworking tools

@@someprintdude you are wizard :) thank you