One tip, once the cable ends are connected to plate in the drum, to then connect the other ends of the cable to the centre adjuster and tighten partially, with the springs compressed you can then reassemble the drums with much greater ease. If you don't do this I found the long springs on the cables make reassembly a bit of a pain as everything just wants to spring apart.
@Sea2SkywardАй бұрын
@anticat900 I don't think I've experienced what your describing. But thanks tips 😊
@anticat900Ай бұрын
@@Sea2Skyward Your demonstration was vital in getting the job done. Particularly at the start when you are not used to where parts go. By the 100th attempt at holding everything in place while putting the spring holders in place and turning them, i was very well versed to all the bits 🙂. I found that putting tension on the cable kept the cable from coming loose from the plate and the cable spring interfering.
@anticat9002 ай бұрын
There are alot of videos on TJ drums, but yours is the only one on the TJ handbrake cable replacement I have found. So this is an Excellent video for me as I'm just about to do this myself.
@Sea2Skyward2 ай бұрын
Ya I couldnt find any either. Not too bad of a job. Watch this before you do it and it should go flawless. Good luck.
@halewilson2 ай бұрын
Is there another location for this? My 2000 TJ doesn't have this, or I can't find it?
@Sea2Skyward2 ай бұрын
Not sure
@ronaldlawhorne2092 ай бұрын
I'm trying to find the fuse the fuel pump goes to but my diagram dose not show it.
@Sea2Skyward2 ай бұрын
Pause the video and zoom in
@ronaldlawhorne2092 ай бұрын
@Sea2Skyward I've got the same diagram as you and neither of them say fuel pump, is it under an abbreviation or another name?
@pabloromero.j4 ай бұрын
Hello. The replacement you mention that now has the black seal. What difference is there with the previous one with the orange tires? Some also put a plate on it in case you lose the turbo so that it doesn't get the actuator wet. Greetings and thanks
@Lee-xm1cu4 ай бұрын
Half the content is off-camera.
@darrylmcleman64565 ай бұрын
Great detail!My Honda 50 is 1999 model.That is great tip re:draining bowl and tapping with hammer.My carbs were gushing out fuel and that has fixed it for now! CHEERS from HERE!
@ErnestSallade5 ай бұрын
Can someone tell me what fuses i plug a relay jumper cable in for a fuel pump bypass
@FaithMapProjectАй бұрын
I’m looking for the same thing. Did you figure it out?
@vulcanman_992716 күн бұрын
@@FaithMapProjectdid you ever figure which is for fuel pump relay?
@RandyRandhawa6 ай бұрын
5th gear?
@Sea2Skyward6 ай бұрын
Yes
@boskokukucka55886 ай бұрын
Does this reduce or eliminate engine breaking/compression breaking? My understanding is that when car is not accelerating flaps close and this is felt like engine breaking effect. Especially noticable at low speed. Just wondering if the flaps are not there foes this breaking effect go away.
@wheyez16 ай бұрын
Nice job of cleaning and recording. Thank you for sharing this!
@clifc63517 ай бұрын
Your video is much appreciated from someone about to begin this journey. Thank You for sharing your repair.
@Sea2Skyward7 ай бұрын
Your welcome, good luck take you time.
@daveruperd75167 ай бұрын
When this dies, do the dash lights still come up? Recently had the instrument lights go out, running lights, and the radio doesn't dim anymore, I was thinking the multi switch since the hazards still work.
@Sea2Skyward7 ай бұрын
They do
@user-be6zp2ez8c7 ай бұрын
What fuses are for O2 sensor
@clifc63517 ай бұрын
Exactly what happened to my TJ. Thanks for making the video showing the way.
@clifc63517 ай бұрын
Thanks for making this video. Seeing it from the backside gets me ready for this job. Looks like dealing with seam sealer and spot welds like all prep work are the most challenging
@Sea2Skyward7 ай бұрын
Tons of spot welds just can't be in a real hurry
@electricalfive22489 ай бұрын
every time i rebuild the 2056vk turbo, the only thing worn out are the two metal seals on the exhaust side of the impeller. the actual bearing/bushing, o rings, metal seals on the cool side impeller, etc... are all basically new. I still replace everything with the kit though. One turbo with 270k miles on it was leaking so much oil into the exhaust from the two metal seals. they were so worn out, but the actual impeller bearing had no slop at all.
@redgreen610 Жыл бұрын
I had the same concern about taking stringers out and warping hull from load of my 220 lb weight inside working on it. If it did warp slightly, it wasn't apparent. My boat has 5 stringers. Looks like they changed the design slightly by 1978. I have a stringer resting on the "keel" as well as the two on either side. Seems like over-kill. I used PL cement to bed them, but it was obvious that they just plunked them down in resin in the factory. I did not bother with the closed cell floatation under the deck as I figured it eventually adds huindreds of lbs to the weight of the boat as it absorbs water. Originally they used open cell foam which was a disasterous water sponge. But even closed cell will do this eventually. If no foam worked for 50 years, it's good enough for me. Chuck knew a thing or two about building boats. I intend to add an access hole in the floor between stringers to open up and suck any residual water out and leave it open in the off season so the black mold can't do it's dirty work below deck. Although I've coated everything underneath with glass, resin and gel coat, I worry about freezing water finding crevices to freeze/expand and break the seal, allowing water back into the stringers.
@redgreen610 Жыл бұрын
MIne is 1971. It has a serial # on port side of transom aluminum trim. I've pulled that boat apart entirely down to the fiberglass skin and did not find any other numbers on it. These boats predate decals shown even the number of passengers. I've have 8 people in mine with seats down no problem. I wonder what the real seating capacity would be in eyes of a cop where there is no decal?
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
I searched everywhere for the serial a d couldn't fi d it
@redgreen610 Жыл бұрын
Transom shape is by design according to some old fabricator I spoke to. I thought it was warped from stress....possibly was a little as the splash well cap was a bit distorted and had popped the 1 inch brass drain out of its hole making it rot even more. The shape makes it slightly stronger. Ply goes in multiple laminations to follow glass curve . Many boats have flat transoms, Hourstons are convex. In fact, you will find your splash well is about an inch too long when you go to put it back on because your transom will be flatter than factory. I had to trim mine because my transom flattened out slightly when I clamped it.
@redgreen610 Жыл бұрын
Yes, I found out the transom is convex by design. I left transom skin in place and clamped 2 laminations of ply in to replicate the shape using numerous big clamps. You have to cut about 2 inches off the keel or you cant get the second lamination in place to clamp it (due to transom shape). Use the popcycle stick method to get templates and cut ply laminations at 1/3 stagering joints. Worked like a damn and it is strong. Lots of guys go for 2 part epoxy. 1708 and normal polyester resin worked for 50 years, so I stayed with that, and it makes things easier.
@redgreen610 Жыл бұрын
Mine has a center stringer on that "keel". It was wet when I did the same removal you show here. I had to let it dry for a year before I bedded in the new center stringer. Bedded stringers in PL cement, did the peanut butter radius and wrapped it in 3 stages with 1708 - the last going right to the top of the stringers. Try finding clear Douglas fir - especially during covid wood prices. What a job! I got so damned tired of walking with my feet at 45 degree angle. Because I was using unwaxed to laminate, I went over everything with waxed gelcoat before I put the floor back in. That was a happy day when I at last had a level floor. Did you give up on the project? I wouldn't blame you if you did. It's a brutal job.
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
I gave up not by choice I moved and abandoned it. Really wanted to bring it back to its glory.
@redgreen610 Жыл бұрын
PTSD watching this. I have the exact same 1971 version. Started with transom, but different approach. I kept the hull skin intact and only cut out enough of the well to get at the transom. Really no glass on the inside of transom, so it was easy to get in there with a sacrificial chain saw and chisel to get what was left of the transom out. Then did 2 laminations of marine plywood to hull glass using large clamps. I did about 2 inches in ply all the way up to top deck unlike the factory that only went double thickness to the motor mount of transom. Like you, I found that there was no floatation used under the floor (not required back then) and all of the stringers in mine needed replacement. It's been 3 years getting to the point of reassembling it. These were structurally very good boats, but they never intended them to last 50 years. Why they didn't wrap the entire stringers I don't know. I guess it saved them a few bucks on each build. I wrapped the new ones, and coated the under floor with 3 coats of resin so the inevitable fungal decomposition will be delayed until long after I'm gone. I don't know if you completed this job or not. If someone is thinking about taking a project like this on, think twice. If I'd worked at McDonalds for minimum wage for all the hours I put into this boat, I would have earned enough to buy a newer boat that needed no work. If you enjoy countless hours of solitude, risking your relationships, and exposing yourself to unhealthy chemicals and dust....dive right in. I now have a boat that is worth about $10,000 but no one would pay that much for it! Still, it's a very rare boat now and they really have nice lines an are excellent in the rough waters. I'm just putting the trim back on and redoing the wiring today. Tomorrow the original Johnson 85 goes back on. I found this YT video looking for the orientation of the water ski bracket mounting plates. Thanks! I saw them in your post.
@dietprivate Жыл бұрын
Slow and steady wins the race. Excellent videos and thanks for the info.
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
Totally and your welcome 🤗
@raydavis2101 Жыл бұрын
Thank you very much for such an in depth videos, I need to do this to my 2000 and plan to start this winter.
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
Definitely a big task. Fun though and rewarding but felt like rock guarding it all at the end lol
@Moto_x11 Жыл бұрын
I did 4.56 on my 2004 TJ wrangler with 33s and it’s a nightmare on the highway 2500rpm at 65mph… I’m thinking of swapping them to 3.73 or 4.10s but I’m leaning on the 3.73s
@tariklaarej22593 ай бұрын
Hey I have a 03 tj I like your comment lol I was planning 4.56 but I believe it’s wrong. I have 33” tire as well and I use it mostly as a daily drive. Do you recommend 3.73 or 4.10? Thanks
@Gehqster15 күн бұрын
@@tariklaarej2259he literally confused himself why would you ask him
@joshuanoble53334 күн бұрын
Just put 37's 😂
@robertthrem3382 Жыл бұрын
Why didn't you just buy a new sill 130 lmao. The only way you can fix that junk is with meratic acic a few times and use baking soda with water to neutralize it the por 15 prep but you need to sand for it to stick. Then por15 even where you need to weld you need weldable primer. Your compared to my work mine is 15 years yours 2.5 if your lucky 😅
@robertthrem3382 Жыл бұрын
I see this a lot and let me explain to everyone what is happening. Your putting china crap on your Jeep. Maybe it’s all china crap? The metric is different then standard so the bolt eggs out the brackets. At this point you need the metric bolt with the washer and might need to weld it. Plus the center of the components you need to put small slits in them so when tightened they could never slide back and forth. Make sure the thread are not in the brackets also get longer bolts❤❤❤❤❤
@robertthrem3382 Жыл бұрын
Done in Canada lol owt😂 its called seam sealer good stuff use that jiggle saw lol works great
@robertthrem3382 Жыл бұрын
There is one video and the kid screwed it all up 😂
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
I know brutal
@christopherleubner6633 Жыл бұрын
Uggh it looks like they replaced the traditional mechanical relays with mosfet switches. If the chassis to motor bond goes RIP. 😵😵😵💩
@chasugc3740 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the info, my 97 TJ rear wiper stopped working too. I'll start by checking those wires. The light on the front switch stopped working before the wiper itself stopped working, so maybe it is a progressive failure of that switch. The motor looks really clean, so hopefully, it isn't the motor. My window didn't close enough, and the wiper would crash and stop on the rear spare tire. I fixed that problem. It was my Tonneau Cover brackets. My rear window may have shifted over time to further block the closure of the rear window. Further Investigation need. Thanks for the input to resolve the issue.
@melvincolvon8019 Жыл бұрын
mAN HOW DID YOU FIND THAT IN THE JUNKYARD? everyone i looked at had a different setup plugup and arrangement
@ScaniaVabis580 Жыл бұрын
Did you notice any warping after welding please? And guessing that it emits a bit of smoke now - how is it at idle and under acceleration in that respect? Thanks
@daelaquangarnette8769 Жыл бұрын
Which fuse is the reverse tail light on a 2008 dodge ram ??
@mikeclement5383 Жыл бұрын
I have no rear lights. Hazard and turn signals work. No brake lights and rear lights. Brake switch is new, fuses all replaced and good. Could this be my issue?
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
I don't think so. There may be a switch that activates the brake lights when you press the the pedal. I can't remember, though. I never had that issue
@mikeclement5383 Жыл бұрын
@@Sea2Skyward I put a new OEM one in. That didn't do it. I don't have tail lights at all in addition to the brake lights. Whatever the rear lights get power from to even be a normal light isn't working. But it works if you put on the hazard lights. It's really bizarre. I was hoping this module might be my problem. Sounds like it isn't though. I appreciate the reply, and thanks for the video.
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
@Mike Clement from the pedal there should be a contact that goes to the back of the fuse. There must be a issue there. Prob can take out the tail light fuse the glove box and see if you and voltage when you hit the brake. If not it's the wires between pedal and back of fuse box. All I can think of. Good luck.
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
Oh ya and since this fix how many ever years ago it crapped out again on me just last month lol
@fernandovacarezza1783 Жыл бұрын
Hi. A bad sensor can produce white smoke? What was your problem?
@DogLifeInCanada Жыл бұрын
The original one is between the airbox and fender?
@bradhillyard398 Жыл бұрын
Your amazing you just saved me thank you I was looking all over for it. And it was right. There
@huckstirred7112 Жыл бұрын
you would not have made it with out tru tracs. thanks for posting this . if you were spinning your speed would have varied . you stopped at the top and took off with zero spin was really impressive
@user-rp9jn6dt2u Жыл бұрын
take engine cover off, take intake hose off, fuel filter is at top of engine right in front of turbo, (3) 10mm torx bolts hold bracket attached to filter on, take those off and take the two screws holding the sensor on the filter off and unplug the sensor connect carfully - lift out filter, take sensor out, replace both o-rings, fill new filter with diesel before installing sensor in new filter. if you need, heat up sensor connect before using much force - plastic can break down over time. align bracket on new filter same as you take it off old. once filter is in and both hoses and sensor are connected, reinstall intake and engine cover.
@michaelgoodwin5162 Жыл бұрын
I have to do this but I am debating just installing a K&N. So what I am unsure about is, will the swirl motor electronics need degreased for the engine to come out of limp? Or does it dry out / burn off ?
@nikkothorne1437 Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much I was able to find it because of this video after hours of searching and trying to find out any information from multiple dealerships who never even called back, I have a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel crd 3.0 for any future comment readers.
@douglasrodrigues8361 Жыл бұрын
Looked more like a 15-20 degree hill ?
@macmade9317 Жыл бұрын
Do you have a link where to order this part?
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
Auto value is where I got mine. Called and went physically into the store.
@StefanZivkovicMedia Жыл бұрын
Hope to see an update soon!!
@TheIsland62 Жыл бұрын
i just upgraded my TJ to 33 inch tires and now am looking to regear. i thought 4.10s would probably put it back to how it felt stock but i really want her to be able to trek through the snow and my long, steep driveway in the same weather... the shop suggested 4.56s.. this hill climb might also persuade me lol. is it awful on the highway at higher RPM and does it make the MPG noticeably worse with the 4.56 versus say 4.10s or something lower? my MPG already went to shit with the bigger tires lol so if it's not that much different... maybe i should just get 4.56 gears. anyway i'll take any advice lol
@Sea2Skyward Жыл бұрын
4.56 with 33,s performs almost like stock, doesn't overrev. Think I posted a video of doing a 100km a hour showing the rpms
@thecommodoredecker Жыл бұрын
I have this same noise, except now i get a buzzing noise upon take off now that goes away when i disengage the clutch