And the point I'm making is how invasive everything seems to be these days. Why must one create an account and give up an email address just so they can change the speed of a floor fan? It's invasive, plain and simple.

Ye, I can agree. It is helpful to have an app sometimes but for some things, it’s ridiculous that you have to make an account for what? A fan controller app that you’re probably only ever going to use once or twice a week? Yeah, no. I’m gonna stick with the remote.

@@PurpleFox32 I stopped when they asked me to register my email and create an account.

I'm a graphic artist... so I drew it in CorelDraw from a jpeg of their logo.

I wish I knew what caused so many problems. it was a 1973 360 block that had never been torn apart. I trusted shops that claimed they could build it - and I know I wasn't the first person to try it... so who knows.

@mascotgraphics who frickin knows... I had weird issues with my build that I didn't figure out until a year after I built it. My problem was with the edelbrock intake having poor fitment against the block. The intake hits the China wall on the back side of the block, and when you torque it to spec, it acts as a jack and actually lifts the heads away from the block ever so slighly. Just enough to make coolant weep from the head gasket where there's a coolant passage close to the edge of the block. At the time, I had a newborn baby so I didn't really have the time to fix it right, so there's a bottles worth of k-seal in there now, and no coolant leak whatsoever. Eventually when I have the time though...

@@poopy.butthole Oh that's odd about the way that worked. Mine seemed pretty decent and sealed okay, my Edelbrock Magnum heads were drilled for the LA intake, instead of the Magnum intake. I drove the car a couple times after the first shop told me it was done, but that valve noise was louder than a diesel - mostly because no oil was getting to the heads and it started to overheat. After all I spent on it, I decided to just part it out and go with something else, I wasn't going to spend another $1500 on it.

It's securely bolted to the positive terminal and there's literally nothing in that area. I'll likely swap out to a different circuit breaker, however.

I used my winch for three seasons towing my car to the track, never noticed an issue. Circuit breakers like these, however (this is an older video) are not everyone's favorite because they pop from excessive heat (too much current) and then reset automatically when they cool down. So technically, it should be fine because I'm not using the winch continually, just to pull the car on the trailer. If I was relying on circuit breakers like this constantly for accessory power while driving, I'd go with something else. Think now people are opting for the type of breaker that you have to physically reset, as these aren't on the SuperWinch website anymore, and I've reached out the them multiple times and they simply do not respond.

It works just like a regular circuit breaker - it pops with excess current load, then resets itself. This was the breaker they used back when I got it, they no longer have it on their website. Not sure what they recommend, I've asked a few times, no reply from them.

@@mascotgraphics thanks. So those extra nuts on there are NOT for me to run extra stuff off of? Lol

@@skinny4070 I wouldn't overload it with other components, this was just for the wiring for the winch. The wire runs down through the frame to the back of the truck where the plug is. But I imagine you could connect other wires to it, it just depends on where you connect them, I suppose.

who knows... it was in the movie, I don't know it. lol

Oye by Pitbull (Mr. Worldwide)

Thanks. These are harder to find now, but they're still out there. When I made this video these were all available on the Superwinch site, but I don't think they sell this setup anymore.

Sorry, didn't see your comment until just now. I'll see what I can come up with. One thing I thought wouldn't work was the low fuel light, but it seems to be working just fine. I haven't set up the "miles to empty" because I really don't need it. I don't do long trips over 100 miles on this bike anyway, and always fill up when I head out. I'll check out the shift light this weekend and see if it works.

You'll have to find out the amperage of your winch, I don't know that information. The winch manufacturer can provide you with that info and what amperage to get.

You understand that I'm not the engine builder, right? Two shops, both have built LA blocks with magnum heads, one provided plenty of oil pressure to the block, but none to the heads, the other provided plenty of oil pretty to the heads, but very little to the block. I lost a big chunk of money on this paperweight.

The 2018 Forty-Eight has a fuel light when it gets low, so I think this works off of that, and you can program it based on that setting. I have installed it but haven't messed around with the miles to empty feature yet since the fuel light works like the original. I just know at that point I have about a half-gallon or a little more, so I just fill up. I'm hoping to finish the install video soon, then I'll post it.

This being a few years old, they don't have it anymore it seems. But similar breakers are available at trailer supply stores or on eBay.

@@mascotgraphics do you have an idea on the key word to search for on ebay?

@@caine-chow It's just a circuit breaker. You may not be able to find this style anymore, check with a trailer place, they can help.

Yes, I'm aware of that... they're magnum heads...it says that in the first few words of the description, and at the beginning of the video.

It works on mine (Anniversary model) and as you cycle through the functions it shows up, or you can set it to display the temp on the screen all the time. I'm finishing up my install video, will post it soon. Gotta get some day and night driving shots.

@@mascotgraphics thank you for the quick response, I emailed Dakota Digital and they couldn't give me a definite answer. With what you said, it should work with hers. Thank you

@@justinburke7797 I think many of the features are in the computer already, but depending on the gauge you have you may not be able to access those features. I don't think Cyl Head Temp is on my OE gauge, but the DD can read head temp.

The engine was in the car and running prior to this, there was no oil getting to the top end at all; hence, the teardown. This was the discovery phase, so to speak.

RE: Looks like passenger side is getting more oil to lifter passage than the driver side. - we had three styles of lifters in the engine at that time (before second teardown) and only one set was the modified set. The problems with this engine were numerous: first build failed: no oil to the heads, but 70 psi (80 with the drill during teardown). The builder forgot to put the plug in behind the filter, so no oil was getting filtered and all the first start up shavings went to the crank and bearings, destroying them. They never primed it, but told me the engine was fine... it wasn't. The rings were damaged, the valve guides were burnt, and the crankshaft was scored and needed polishing. ALL internals were 100% brand new parts, only the block was used. The plugs at the back of the block were put in, these were concerns on the first build, and definitely all plugs were checked for the second build. At the time of this video we had pulled the engine out for a third time, and it to this shop because it was basically toast. This was a test of the flow to the heads, which there was none except for that one pair of modified lifters we installed, that was the first sign of oil actually squirting out the lifters. It went down to bare block, back to the machine shop, and new bearings, seals, guides, lifters, rings, etc. were ordered, and the build was completed. The problem at that point was 35 psi cold, 5 psi hot on oil pressure, with the same pump that was putting out 70 psi cold and 40-50 psi hot at idle. So this basically became a money pit and not worth pursuing.

The story on the build is this: sent it to a Mopar shop locally, had them run it on their run stand and set the timing for me so I could drop it in with a bran new transmission. It was noisy, and no oil to the heads at all. Checked the plug in the back, it was there, but they left the plug out behind the oil filter. Brought it back to them twice, still no oil to the heads, but pressure was about 70 psi cold, 40 warm at idle. Clearly they never primed and checked for pressure. Engine was literally destroyed, needed new bearings, cylinder walls honed again, crank polished, new valve guides, and new rings. Got my money back, took it to a different Mopar shop, he pulled off the intake and primed it, as seen here, good pressure, but lifters weren't pumping oil. So we tore it all down, block went back to the machine shop, new parts ordered, then he finished it and when I installed it I had 30 psi cold, and 5psi hot, second builder won't return my calls or honor his work, so it's basically just sitting now. I know I'm not the first person to do an LA block with Magnum heads, but for some reason nobody could figure out what was wrong with this one.

Thanks... wish this would have worked, but for some reason nobody could figure it out. Hughes swore it was the Comp lifters, but his didn't work either, and he had nothing to say about it.

Not sure they offer this type anymore. I will probably change mine to a better setup.

Hi... the car has come a long way since this video. I did have Mickey Thompson street tires for this video, but the car is currently sitting on a full coilover suspension with much wider, Falken Azenis tires with a lower treadwear rating - much stickier. I shot GoPro video of the last time I went out, but the camera shut off on me, so I don't have video. After the coilover install, the lap times were reduced by 4.5 seconds first time out. Currently, a new 408 Stroker small block is being built and once I get that together and get some miles on it, I'll take it back to Willow Springs and see where my lap times are. I've also had a trans built with a close-ratio planet set so my gearing is a little more suited for the track.

The "natural drive" was wind noise on the gopro, you couldn't hear the engine or the exhaust.

For a street diff, they're great and work very well for road racing. The Truetrac is a limited-slip diff that won't let you down and will last a lifetime, but for high power and max traction try the Locker. The Detroit Locker will give you the best dragstrip performance because it will lock 100% and can handle more power.

Pretty much the same way if you're installing this type... but running both winches at the same time might be too much, so run a pair of circuit breakers, or use higher powered circuit breakers. They would both need to go to the battery positive terminal.

@@mascotgraphics Thank you. I was at a loss on how to proceed with this.

Thanks, Marlo. That's the breaker that comes with the wiring kit from Superwinch, I believe it's three 30Amp circuit breakers, I'm sure Warn will have something similar.

Since this was a project car for the magazine, it was important to show that for the serious contender you can get better lap times when buckled in. Old school is great, and I enjoyed the journey. The seats, by the way, are Procar seats and can be picked up for about $400 each plus brackets. Not bad for a nice seat. Reupholstering the bench would cost about $550, so it's a good trade off.

thats pretty cool man, good price to them seat look bad ass! way more affordable than i figured. i always wanted bench seat cuz i wont do corners hard and i wana road trip my car , and have my girl ride up next to me. if it wernt for that id probly pick up some these seats so i can take a corner!

I had the bench seat for 15 years for that same reason. First time I got a girl in the car after building it, she sat close to the door. I said, "to hell with it... I'm doing buckets" ! lol

darn, god damn door huggers, im gona try it tho !!!!!!! worst comes to worst my dog has a place to lay down.

did you wait 15 years for a girl to put her head on your shoulder?

oh relax

@@mascotgraphics legend has it we’re still waiting

@@fuegococoa Mark Trostle told me way back in 2015 when I wrote about a possible Hellcat Truck that it wasn't going to happen, but I had a source that told me about one they were playing around with. Years later, the TRX comes out. I also remember Sergio saying the Hemi was going away... more than 7 years ago. You never know with those Dodge boys.

It's a 2013 Dodge Charger, and this style is really more for showing off than actually providing a power increase. The increase is minor, but the sound is - awesome!

Thanks, I haven't done any quarter mile runs, this engine is a little wimpy in the power department. Aside from that, I've never really liked drag racing as much as road racing.

Nice it must be your driving skills then :) I got it now from Amazon. I got 4.10 on my 2001 mustang GT and these tires feel awesome. Glad there are people like you who shares good videos and info for others.

+homestyle2000 Thank you. I raced the car initially as a fluke; it handled so well that we made it a project car and slowly made improvements over the course of two years. This was to illustrate the point you made, that buckled in you can concentrate more on driving and less on trying to hang on. Even with a severe flu that day, I was able to knock a second off my lap times. I only raced two sessions that day because I was ill, so it only proved that point even further.