I just did a 940 and the hardest part is still the panhard bar. I still had to burn one out and cut the sleeve.

@@an5ama5 i dont have a bushing press so ive had to burn and cut every bushing out ive ever done lol. I was thinking to just buy the premade adjustable ipd panhard since the BNE panhard and torque rods on the 240 dropped in effortlessly

I can't believe I didn't notice that when I made my alteration. Thanks, I will remember that now that I have a 940

The sub frame does not contain the engine cradle though. It is the upper frame rusted.

I'm not sure about the steering rack (at all) but the physical dash board should fit. However, the climate control systems are different, most of the switch gear wiring is the same. Not sure if this is helpful to you

Sorry, I am a shade -tree mechanic. I suppose you could search for a local welder or welding shop, since it isn't a factory repair. Keep it running, we love Saturns!

@@an5ama5 Thank you!

awesome, I added to my folder of links. Thanks. Let me know how much vibration you get from the trans and motor mounts.

Yes! I used a long extension on my breaker bar so that I had some swing room in the wheel well. IIRC I was able to fit a box wrench jammed against the underside of the body on the inboard side. I'm in CT, I know your pain, we sand and salt EVERYTHING. I don't drive my 740 in the winter EDIT check around 6:33 to see how I got the upper bolt

That sounds like a good idea and probably what I will end up doing. (Did not pull the wheels off yet) guess I'll have to, atleast on the passenger side. But my fuel lines are still in the way and I am not fond of bending them too far back. Did you have that problem on the outer side top bolt? Once again, I appreciate all your insight and help.

@@petemagnum2164 no, I do not recall having problems on the left side. I did most of the removal from the right-ish side and from beneath.

So, after letting it sit soaked in PB oil over night basically did the job! (That and a giant proper 13/16 wrench!) lol. The only struggle after that was getting the custom arms to line up but jacking up the rear end and some muscle pretty much solved that. (*the custom torque rods are new units with solid molded polyurethane bushings pre-installed.) This made things easier and stiffer! ;)

Again, thank you and look forward to future videos! Keep up the great work! "Keep the bricks alive!" lol. ;)

You're welcome. I have seen the large bushing oriented 90 degrees (Backman's Garage) but that's how the came out of my car and they were original. You choose!

No, you won't need to disconnect the drive shaft, but I did take the panhard bar off at the same time. The frame and axel were supported independently of each other so I could position it with my floor jacks.

I went back to watch the video and about half way through I can see that I in fact disconnected the drive shaft at the dif. I was going to replace the dif seal but decided it wasn't leaking enough. I'm not sure if that helped out hindered my repair. I just felt I should correct my earlier reply.

Hello, thanks for the comments, I appreciate them. I have since installed a standard rubber plug for drum brake shoes in the dust cover. This has not been a perfect fix but has worked better than the original.

Hi, the repair has held up extremely well and regular inspections revealed no cracks in my welding. There were no noticeable vibrations because the repair bypasses the hard attachment point that failed. We recently involuntarily retired (took a hit) the Saturn and so there will be no more Saturn love from our garage :( . Best wishes to all!

@@an5ama5 thank you very much for replying! Very sorry to hear about the involuntary retirement, I hope that everybody involved was not injured. I picked up my first welder about 10 months ago and I've had plenty of practice, built several things, I feel that this type of project is within my capabilities. Doing this kind of work was also a justification for getting a welder! Just like your Saturn, subframe mounts are definitely crispy, and doing something like this is some nice additional insurance. Thank you so much for taking the time to create and share!

@@an5ama5 forgot to ask one question, what wall thickness did you use on your square tubing?

@@jasonholloway2476 it was probably 1/8 or 3/16. I can't remember which piece of stock i grabbed from the pile.

@@an5ama5 One more question-I've got some 14 ga. (2mm) thickness square tube on hand, thoughts on using that?

wow! I didn't know that damage could be done, must've been a hell of a drift!

@@an5ama5 I was going pretty fast didn't feel like anything to me but I guess it was more serious than I thought

You're welcome

Hello, I did not take any special precautions, other than disconnecting the battery. TBH, I hadn't considered damage to the electrical system, but none occurred! I suppose there are more experienced welders out there that could give you better advice, but I think you could use a spare jumper cable connected to a large ground as a secondary.

@@an5ama5 Andrew, thank you for responding. I have gone ahead and cut out all the decayed sheet metal and plan on rebuilding the body back down to the cradle using steel flat bar and square steel tubing (ASTM A500). So far I have managed to get down to a good starting point and have been developing a strategy for the new structure that will replace the old sheet metal. I must have used every type grinder I have to get in there and cut out the metal that is not needed for the rebuild. Kind of like doing dental work on a car. BTW There is no way I plan on even attempting to mimic the original geometry. My structure will be more robust yet simple. The OE bolts and nuts are toast. I will be replacing them with a larger diameter (5/8") grade 8 bolt. The OE bolt was metric and miked up at just over 1/2" diameter. I'll also be incorporating a nylon insert locknut. Also grade 8. The new structure will feature that access window except I am adding cover plate with a gasket to seal out the ingress of water. That is the reason these cars disintegrated in this area in the first place. Frigging GM. All those jerks needed to do was incorporate a rubber plug in that access hole and that rust would have never happened. That is my observation at least. Either their engineers are just plain morons or they don't care. Not sure which. Maybe both. Like I said, I plan on getting a few more years out of my Vue as it only has 150K miles. I am videoing this and hope to post it once I am finished. I'll give you a shout once I do.

@@hootinouts Do you have vid or pictures of what you did? I'm having same issue on mine.

@@hootinouts How did your repair go? I'd love to see your work.

I felt the same way about the subframe bushings!

@@an5ama5 I've already special ordered those subframe bushings from Volvo, they're coming from Sweden and will be here in a few weeks. But, when they arrive I think I'll take a pass on them, too! Looks like the wise thing to do. The other bushings - all Meyle - I already have from FCP Euro and I think I'll replace them one rod, trailing arm, etc. at a time.

@@bobjohnson205 if I could've figured out what to do with axle, I think I would've tried. If you drop and move the whole thing, it should be easy (nothing is easy). Good luck, send an update. Also, check eEuroparts, too.

@@an5ama5 Since I have all the new bushings (Meyle) that I need to do the upper & lower torque rods, and they look easy to do (?), I think I'll do those this week. I have one track rod bushing (Meyle), the other one from Volvo arrives in a couple of weeks. So, I'll do that one next. As for those other two bushings? If my original ones look fine when the new Volvo ones arrive in early October I think I'll just set them aside. I live in an area where salt is used on the roads from Nov. to April. So, that makes things even tougher. :(

There is one bolt at the top of the shock and one at the bottom. I'd have to check the torque specs later though.

Okay thanks

@@Robsay01 manual says 2004 and earlier 81 foot pounds, 2005 and later 77 ft/lbs.

Andrew Masters Nice thanks for info.

I'm glad this helped you save money ¡

Thanks

you're welcome, I'll answer what I can

Vulpix, thanks for the comments, good luck! Drink fresh, drink local 😀

Michael Mayfield: they appeared to be, I did not replace them, the new springs seated into the worn position with no difficulty. The upper stayed in place and the lower also stayed in the control arm. HTH.

Mitch Shaker, sorry for the late reply. Yes, they definitely improve the ride, mostly by quieting it. New shocks have a more significant impact.