Almost he will be 15 this year

Didn't work for me either

No errors after removing pump fuse and leveling fuse

Is this LSPI a new concern with these engines? I'm about to do an oil change on my 2007 A4 2.0T B7. I had 3 unopened old quarts laying around from 2018. It's the old Castrol Syntec 5W40, with API SN, SM, SL. That is all my car has ever seen. I wanted to buy two more quarts so that I had 5, but all I'm seeing is the new Castrol Syntec 5W40 Euro Car, that is API SP. Should I not mix these two? I've read conflicting things about mixing the two. Castrol just says, "Old Look.....New Look." If I can save $36 by using up the 3 old quarts I will, but won't if it could be an issue.

@@Goodbye_Megaton If it were my car, I'd get newer API SP Euro Oil. Plus old oil isn't good to use anyways. The additives can and do fall out suspension and/or the oil can oxidize. I've had this happen to oil that was just 2 years old. I'd use that old Castrol to oil door hinges and such. As the saying goes, good oil is cheaper than a new engine. :)

@@jdm2gdm Thanks for the insight and getting back. I will take your advice on this. I looked into it a little more since I saw your reply. Apparently, the production date code on my Castrol Edge 5w40 bottles has them being produced in March 2018. I've read that synthetic oil shelf like can be 7-8 years, with conventional oil at 5 years. Unopened. Not worth it to save $36. Maybe i'll drain the current oil, put the drain plug back on, fill it up with these 3 quarts, then drain it again immediately. Any harm in doing that you think? Probably pointless right as it would go straight to the pan anyways unless I started it up which I wouldn't with only 3 quarts in. Definitely going to get 5 new quarts for the job though. Maybe the Mobil 1 Euro like you originally mentioned, or the new Castrol Euro. Or maybe even that Liqui-Moly stuff that always comes up online.

@@Goodbye_Megaton I've had synthetic oil start to have fallout after a couple years so YMMV. You could always open one up and pour out most of it (into another clean container) and see if there any sediment at the bottom. If not, then it's still good but personally I'd switch over to API SP anyways and mixing oils is not a great idea as the additive packages might conflict (or negate ) with each other. The newer Castrol uses a different "add pack" in order to meet API SP. Mixing oils in some old, low power, naturally asperated motor (like a old Honda or Toyota) might be OK (they have a very low oil requirement threshold) but I wouldn't do it in a turbo motor. Liqui Moly is decent oil as is Castrol, debatable if either is better than Mobil 1 not that I think Mobil 1 is "the best', it's decent and it's easy to get (Walmart). With ANY oil, I would stick to a 5K mile oil change interval. You should also look into FCPEuro. They have a lifetime replacement warranty on practically everything (oil, filters, brake pads, rotors, spark plugs, coils, etc). It's fantastic and if you get some sort of shipping deal (like corp. shipping rates), then you'll be able to maintain your car for very cheap.

​@@jdm2gdm I think I will pour it into a clear container and have a look. I'll let it sit for a bit too. I think the idea of a flush is great. There are a lot of people who swear that engine flushes have caused them problems, and so many more that swear it has done what it's supposed to do and caused no issues. I don't recall ever doing an engine flush in any vehicle or motorcycle ever. I do like the idea though, but I'd probably be scared to flush this car for fear of the chance of doing any harm. I'm the original owner of the car. It has 91,000 miles. The car sat from 2021 until now. If some problem arose from that, I'll always wonder was it the flush? The fact the car sat for 3 years? So maybe if I see no sediment in my old Castrol, I'll do the oil change with these 3 old bottles plus 2 new, run the car around town for a few days, then flush it and do another change with API SP and a new filter. That could be my quasi flush I guess. I don't know man I'm probably overthinking all of this. I think in the end, I just want to do whats best for the car and I think that's exactly what you were advising on as well. I used to purchase stuff from ECS tuning for years, and just recently started picking up stuff from FCP Euro for this car and my Mom's. I got rotors for my Mom's car through them a few weeks ago. It's crazy right, their lifetime replacement warranty. Didn't even realize it until after I bought the rotors. Sounds too good to be true but it seemingly is true and fairly straightforward. Just noticed that ECS has it too. No reason not to get the oil or anything from either of those websites right? I guess when Mom's rotors wear out I'll just hit up FCP for some replacements.

It did like a month later. I found out my valves seals were leaking causing oil to clog up the cat. I removed it and cleaned it with acetone after repairing the seal. Runs great.

It came back like a month later. I found out my valve seals were leaking causing oil to clog up the cat. I have since replaced my valve seals and cleaned my cat out properly with acetone. No light ever since. Thanks for watching.

With today's prices, I highly doubt it, but maybe if you sourced everything 2nd hand, maybe. You are probably looking at a minimum of 7 to 8

KPro

All ebay

Sounds like a great idea. Do it to it. 👍

Awesome, great to hear. 🙏

Not to bad, obviously not as smooth, but new suspension always feels great. Thanks for watching 👍

I'm not sure, but I think it has something to do with the wiring

Hello, thanks for watching. I know that Maxpeedingrods had undergone an update with their products. I have noticed the quality us getting better. Whatever the have available under the description is probably better.

@@SleepRGarage appreciate the response

We adjusted the pre-load kinda high and adjusted the lower mounts down to a safe level where we knew they wouldn't pop out. Yes they are a little shorter than the mirage