I was just talking a moment ago to my system who lives in SoCal and asked if Maine was around, because there can be multiple places with same name, eh? You were riding from Maine to CA? Dude, you almost came from Canada! Damn, THAT was a ride, gratz! I do cruise around Europe late spring/early summer every year, avoiding the peak of tourist season. But it does get depressing in Norway on july/august because of the chance of non-stop rain (there is dry season here), so one really must put the miles in may/june/september.

@@saulocpp Haha yea it was quite a ride! Working on a lil highlight video of the journey now. Ended jup being around 4500 miles total, 15 or so days of travel.

@@CruisinViews Do you already have it up on your channel? Early February I am going to FL spend a couple of weeks with my father and enjoy the warm weather there while we wait for spring. I think your situation is not much better due to the winter? Shitload of snow, damnit. Man I will burn gasoline this year.

@ Yeah! Its up... My audio needs work but it has some nice views of America!

CREIDE!

Peter Green and his unmistakable tone. RIP!

CREIDE!

This is a 1100.

Bought one in Canada in 1983. Red were 750cc and Blue were 1100cc. I don t know if it was the same thing outside Canada.

@ldero9520 yeah me too. I had a blue stripe 1100 and red was 750 in ontario.

Not a problem at all.

Can i use wd 40?

@@sheikhmohammadriyan1953 no thats a lubricant. Brake cleaner

@@sheikhmohammadriyan1953 no please no.

Peru Koalas, my personal view of removing rust from a disk is, first, disassemble the thing. I wouldn't do the service with the thing mounted on the bike. Since I don't know how much rust you got, you may apply those sprays that "break" the rust by freezing it. You will need some coarser sandpaper for metal, like 240 or 120, and do it by hand. This will not damage the steel because it is not coarse enough nor is the pressure you apply so big. What you can also do, and this will require the disk off the wheel, of course, is taking to a sandblasting service (might cost you some $$$). A third way is to use a cordless drill with a fiber disk attached. These disks are made to remove rust and I used it to totally get rust out of the exhaust pipes from another bike I have (the part coming from the block). The disk is not hard enough to damage the steel, but make sure you use the LOW SPEED gear of the drill. And don't even think of doing it without protection goggles. Wash the disk when done and make sure NO OIL is on the surface before mounting again.

Use the ever-reliable WD40 and just a mild scrub, removes the rust

This is the Castrol Bike Cleaner, which I also use to wash my bikes. But water and soap in a spray bottle will also do the job.

Hi Gerhard. No idea, but you know the internet, nobody really needs any reason to dislike on hate on something. But let me share another tip: when you are done with this cleaning, use a coarse sandpaper for metal, like 80, and scratch the disk with movements towards and away from the center (don't scratch in the direction of the wheel spin). Apply some pressure so the sandpaper can do something on the steel (don't use a machine, just the hand pressure). This will give you a lot more bite on the brakes due to the added friction. It is specially useful for me here because it rains pretty much everyday, and a perfectly flat disk surface will delay the braking. The scratches add disturbance to the water surface and immediately break the tension, the brakes respond much, much faster. Sure a shining brake disk looks cool to most people, but I don't care about a good looking disk, I want brakes that stop my bike immediately.

Hi, Sasholsuma. I normally do this procedure just prior to winter storage. You know, when they start salting the road, all sorts of corrosive junk sticks to the hot brakes. With this simple cleaning you have your wheel spinning free again, prevent corrosion of parts that are not stainless steel, and when the riding season starts, I do the disk scratching that I just mentioned in a previous reply to Gerhard (above). This way I make sure my brakes generate as much friction as possible while also eliminating small stones/dirt that can destroy the disk and the pads.

I am not sure because I am not one of the ones who disliked it, but it would have been better if he had also shown how to clean the buttons/bobbins. That should have been done at the same time, because they are most likely stiff or frozen as well.

Easy and simple. Just my speed.

Most disliker folks have no idea what material disc rotor is made from. Forged Hi carbon steel, a little bit of sanding is harmless