Thank you!

I use a flat clear coat from Mr Hobby (found at Hobby Lobby) in a spray can.

Correction. With all the views he needs more likes..

Thank you!

It's a wonderful model. I have many more in the stash waiting to be built!

It is a snap together kit! It goes together perfectly without glue. I just used glue for OCD reasons.

@@billsfilmsinc thanks was hoping that was it. I really don’t want to deal with glue or painting

Appreciate it!

Thank you! It's my favorite ship design from the prequel films.

It's called Tamiya Extra Thin cement. Great great stuff.

Ok, thanks! Also thanks to you I was able to start modeling and painting and your video is so satisfying!

So when do I use the glue?

@@Icy-zk9rh I use the glue at most plastic joints, where two parts come together. These Bandai kits are designed to snap together so they don't technically need glue, but I like to use it anyway.

@@Icy-zk9rh That's great to hear! I hope you enjoy the hobby!

Thank you! The music tracks are from Artlist, but sadly can't remember the names. I believe they're in another comment somewhere on here?

Yes these models are small, but with the right paint it can look huge! I am going to try lighting my next 1/72 build as well!

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks! It's always a tricky balance to not over-do it, especially at this small scale.

Thanks!

Hello! I list many of the paints used throughout the video. Just basic Tamiya colors mixed until it looks right!

You could just build this straight from the box if you wanted, because the silver parts have a chrome coating already applied on them. And if the gaps on the nacelle tips don't bother you, then you're gold.

I honestly only really use primer on my 3D printed models, such as the Y-Wing in this photo. There's not really data on how well and for how long paint can stick to 3D printed resin, so it's just a safe bet in this case. In your case with the injection molded plastic, I think you'd be fine to skip it. But that's just me, and I tend to be a bit impatient at times! So all of that to say, it's really up to you. If you do end up doing it, just do it in light passes so that you don't glob it on and start obscuring details and panel lines. And have fun!

@@billsfilmsincthank you!!

I'd always prime it, personally, as someone who paints miniatures and 1/72 scale models, though I guess it depends on how handy you are with an airbrush, and what primers you're using. If you're an experienced airbrusher, the smelly stuff can thin really well (Mr Surfacer 1000 + Mr Levelling Thinner can go down mega smooth) Water based is trickier but it's what I used on minis for over a decade before I fell fully back into scale modelling. I used to use Badger Stynylrez and still have an old bottle, but I'm informed by the interweb they changed the recipe and wrecked it. But generally you'd have to make some rookie mistakes to obscure details with your primer coat. If you're a rookie, then it might be worth considering, but otherwise, texture consistency and a reliable surface for your paint to adhere to seems too good a benefit to pass up.

Nope, no primer on this one. I'm hesitant to use primer because too many layer of paint could obscure details on small models like this one.

Thanks! And no, I haven't used Reefer White, but I hear it works well!

I can't wait to get to building mine!

Thank you! I love both Rogue One and Band of Brothers, and so the crossover was going to happen eventually!

@@billsfilmsinc you’re a credit to us all

Thanks for watching. These are all real scale models that I have built and painted. No CGI going on here! To see a bit more of my process, check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoPHpKlsecuKn80

@@billsfilmsinc amazing stuff. 👍👍👍

Yes, that is correct. If you add more paint, just keep it at an 8:3 ratio, and you should end up with similar results. For the mist coat at the end (to knock the colors down a bit), thin that mixture about 10:1 with thinner and build the paint up slowly.

Just take it one layer at a time, and then mush everything together with lens flares and a layer of film grain!

Thank you, Eric!

Yes, it comes down to the nature of it being a snap-together kit. As you can see, the kit is molded in color, so there are larger panel lines where two colors meet than there would be otherwise. I wish Bandai would come out with an X-Wing whose fuselage was one large piece, like the old Fine Molds kit was.

Once the gloss black layer is down and cured for a few days, I apply the chrome. No sanding in-between. Could be a lot of factors, though: temperature, humidity, air pressure from airbrush, etc...

@@billsfilmsinc thanks 😊 may I ask you 2 more questions? Airbrush used? 0.2? You’re handmade smoke limes are great

@@giannipolini2544 I have an old Badger 150 that I got at an estate sale many years ago. Unsure of the needle size. I'd like to get a better airbrush one day, but the 150 is a great little dual-action brush.

@@billsfilmsinc it’s a great work, really. I tried with my Iwata 0.35, happy, but lines too large (the exhaust smoke I mean) I used lacquer for everything, even the smoke…maybe I should move to acrylic for that, so I can belittle them with an earbud). Do you have tips for that? Even the idea for R2 is great, but the Xwing 1/48 is too expensive..,I’ll try maybe on a 3d print service

@@giannipolini2544 I don't really use lacquers, unless they come from a spray can. I made the switch to acrylics a few years ago and never looked back. Yeah it's definitely not worth buying a whole X-Wing kit just for the R2 unit. I had one in the stash already, so I raided it! Just got lucky that it fit perfectly.

Thank you, Jesse!

It's a composite (matte "painting") of about 10 images from Adobe Stock.

Thank you, sir!

Me too!