Motor oil. I don't think it matters about the weight.

Did you set up the remote? Does it beep when you press the remote?

@ I figured it out thanks for responding now both remotes and the keypad are all working now.

You can get an adapter that plugs into the factory wiring harness and has wires that connect to the aftermarket radio. Search on eBay or maybe Amazon.

Sounds like a bad ground to me.

@@farmboy30117 If I tell the entire story, it would be like reading Lord of the Rings. ......ah, what the hell. The truck has 300, 200 miles on it. I've owned it for 100,000. My first vehicle with an ECM. I'm a 67 year old carb and HEI guy and this has been a 10 year education. It's always had "issues" Upon starting, it takes about 17 seconds to start coming down from high idle... even when warm. Warmed up, the regular idle isn't always consistent. Arriving at a stop light, the idle can be a few hundred rpm high... Sometimes it finishes coming all the way down.... sometimes not. It's always seemed to run a little hot. I blamed that on my electric fan from a Dodge intrepid. (No stock fan) I manually turn the fan on. Chapter two: Two years ago, the truck suddenly lost power heading out of town. No spark , Got towed home. I installed a coil... no change. Installed a module... Problem fixed. The brittle pickup coil plug broke, exposing one lead, but it connected fine/no chance of shorting . I did some pondering.... ...then started replacing other old but functioning components. IAC, TPS and MAP ant temp control sensors. Those are in a case behind the seat. (Spares on board) Chapter three: A year and a half ago, my current ...or lack thereof 😁 problem arose. Nice sunny day and the tach swinging/bad idle started. It stayed running, so I wiggled wires under the hood... The engine was running good. A two wire plastic connection from the loom to the firewall looked pretty bad so I cut out and replaced some wire and installed "temporary" (still there) insulated crimp connectors. No issues for months. Then after driving I stopped at the store. 1/2 hour later, upon restart the problem was back. This time it was cooler and had rained lightly. Hmm, humidity contributes now? I could keep it running by feathering the gas pedal. I put it in drive and it died. I restarted and discovered I could get it moving in reverse to get out of the parking space and then into drive with the rpms up, I headed for home. Part way there, it was running fine. The next morning I cleaned some grounds and added a couple. Months later, it happened again when raining. I walked a quarter mile to Napa and bought a new coolant temp sensor. Ran great. Problems came back again weeks later. It was misty. I never replaced the EGR module. I pulled the plug and there was green corrosion on the contacts. I split a piece of wood into a toothpicks and rubbed everything cleaner than it was. I made it home. This has been going on for well over a year. Chapter four: Last Friday, just three miles from home it died and I got towed home. 😣 I have tried fixes, each time getting it to idle 2 to 5 minutes..... After replacing the knock sensor, it idled for 1/2 hour..... then died. Thought I had it 😭 I bit the bullet.. another ignition module, cap, rotor and coil. I also checked wire continuity in the connectors. Nope, no cigar. Chapter five: (gittin' close) Last resort..... I'm desperate now. I removed the lower heater box cover to remove the ECU to check for anything obvious. 😳😳😳😳😳 I wish I could send you a picture of the culprit. The CPU plug on the left side wasn't fully snapped in. It was quite dusty (300, 200 miles dusty) It has obviously not been fully seated since I bought the truck over 10 years ago. Pushing the connection, it moved almost 1/4 inch before clicking solidly into place. 😱 Tho it was 7pm, the sun came out, birds started chirping, my eyes started watering....... I knew this nightmare was over, even before turning the key. Chapter eleventeen: The test drive. EVERYTHING was different now. I'm in a new truck. The shifting seems "cleaner", the idle at stop signs is normal and consistent every time. My engine temperature is lower by a little bit. I have factory and aftermarket tem gauges and both are lower.... not much... but I can see it. When I slow gradually from 45 with my foot off the gas, it used to feel like I'm coasting, no real feel from the transmission or throttle. Now, I can feel the downshifting and I can sense the throttle body has returned to an idle position, assisting the vehicle to slow down....... before, the idle or throttle position stayed too high all let me coast as if freewheeling. I'm absolutely sure the ignition timing was freaky high. I only got 20 minutes of drive time in last night. A 200 pound weight lifted from my shoulders last night. No more being scared and crossing my fingers every time I drive it out of town. I know this barely connected ECU plug is an extreme rarity, but I suppose someone out in cyberland might relate to my bad connection at the ECM, so if my erratic tachometer/erratic idle combo ever occurs, the wiring to this plug connection or at this connection might help someone, or help you give some advice, for a starting point. Every one of the previous fixes was luck and happenstance, not having much of anything to do with my real issue. Thanks for reading. Paperback versions available on Amazon for $1988 or call BR-549 weekdays 8 to 5 PST. Thank you sir for beginning my search to a better life. That brown wire and why it's there got me thinking. I'm familiar with it, but it got me thinking about the timing and connections from the various engine components and how they interact. 👍

@@randywl8925 Awesome story! Glad you found the culprit. I have an intermittent issue with my '93 K1500 that sounds similar. Every now and then the gauges will act up, and it'll start spitting and sputtering but usually it'll clear up if I shut it off and crank it back up. I have gotten out and shook the wires going to the firewall and that's fixed it for a long time. Next time I might dig my ECM out and see if it's connected good. Thanks!

@@farmboy30117 I figured you might enjoy the tale. It's been a long road and it felt good to get this chapter out of my system. Hopefully it may help another gremlin chaser too. .......it's always something. 😉

@@farmboy30117 While I'm at it asking questions.... I want to at least, dust off the ECU connectors, then unplug them to see if the connections are clean. Do I need to unplug the battery first, de- energize the computer first by maybe crossing the AB diagnostic terminal..... Or simply unplug the connections, inspect, clean and reconnect them? New territory for me.

Where is the fuse box located on this mustang nine thirty a

@@DonnieSmith-e2o The only fuse I know of was in the upper instrument panel over the door.

Check rockauto.com they carry the suction and discharge hoses for most vehicles

Disregard this, I hadn’t watched the full video

I can't comment on the 2000 series as I've never had one, but the 3 cylinder diesel has been very dependable. The only issue we've had is the fuel injector pump has been rebuilt at least twice on it.

@@farmboy30117 thanks.

You can narrow it down to fuel or ignition by checking the spark next time it won't start. Could be vapor lock or an ignition part getting too hot. Since (I assume) it'll run fine as long as you don't shut it off, it probably isn't the fuel pump.

@@farmboy30117I'm pretty sure it's an electrical issue. Possibly in the ignition. When it doesn't want to start it doesn't crank at all. You turn the key and the gauges go up and down like normal but that's it. So it's not a spark issue. It acts as if you're not holding in the clutch. That's why I bypass the clutch safety switch but it's still doing it. And thank you for your reply.

@@thejohn6614 My first thought is that the starter (or solenoid) is getting hot and not working if it won't crank at all. Is the exhaust factory manifolds? It'd be a pain, but I'd try to take a test light the next time it won't crank and see if you're getting power at the starter or starter solenoid.

@@farmboy30117 it was just not starting and I checked the stater and it was getting power but then it started immediately after. I'll check again next time it does it.

I bought mine from my local Kuhn dealer.