Mas mabuti po kung ilalagay ang rubber seal o gasket na kasama ng water pump. Ito po kasi ang nagse-seal para hindi magkaroon ng tagas. Kung wala ito, pwede pong magka-leak sa cooling system, na pwedeng magdulot ng overheating sa makina. Kung wala talagang kasama, gumamit po kayo ng RTV silicone gasket maker na designed para sa tubig at coolant, pero siguraduhin pong malinis at tuyo ang surface bago ilagay.

Kung tunog ay lumalabas lang pag umaandar na, posible nga na galing 'yan sa tensioner bearing o drive belt. Pwedeng worn out na 'yung bearing o maluwag na 'yung belt, kaya nagkakaroon ng ingay. I-check po kung may play o kalog na 'yung tensioner, at tingnan din ang kondisyon ng belt-baka may cracks o sobrang luma na. Mas mabuti po na ipa-check agad para maiwasan ang biglang sira habang nasa biyahe.

small po.

wala na.

Ang pag-init o pagbabaga ng exhaust at catalytic converter ng DA63T multicab ay maaaring sanhi ng sobrang gasolina (rich mixture), maling ignition timing, baradong catalytic converter, sira o luma na spark plugs, o paggamit ng maling fuel at sobrang karga. Maaaring kailanganing ipa-check ang fuel injectors, sensors, ignition system, at catalytic converter, o palitan ang spark plugs. Siguraduhin ding tama ang uri ng gasolina at hindi overloaded ang sasakyan. Kung hindi pa rin maayos, mas mabuting ipasuri ito sa mekaniko.

130 bili ko sa online.

It is till working until now.

Yes po.

Check mo muna ang oil level, check mo rin transmission mounts and driveshaft bka maluwag. Kung di pa rin mawala ang tunog, magandang dalhin sa mekaniko para ma-check ng maayos.

Meron po sa online, small ang size.

H8 po.

It sounds like your issue may involve more than just the steering rack preload. While adjusting preload can reduce play in the steering, the clunking and wandering you're describing could also be caused by worn tie rods, bushings, or even alignment issues. I’d recommend checking the tie rods, control arm bushings, and suspension components first, as they can contribute to instability at highway speeds and when hitting bumps. If everything else checks out, adjusting the preload on the rack might help, but it’s important to address any worn parts first.

Tubular spanner.

Tie rod puller/end separator.

The TPS is on the other side, on the right.

you do not know what you’re talking about

64w din ba ang unit mo sir? Try mo e-check ang mga schematic diagrams ng module mo kung andyan pa baka makuha mo ang tamang diagram.

Sir nangyare din sakin yan nung nag install ako DIY, naka ilang ulit din ako at shuffle ng installation,, binalik balikan ko yung manual may mulpitple diagram siya nakuha ko siya by isolation ng orange wire (wag install),,, 2 yellow wires connect sa ground,, tapos make sure wala kang loose connections,, yung sakin kasi nag tap lang ako sa central locking dahil alangan ako mag splice

Ginawa ko din kasi yan na install orange sa ground at yellow sa positive ganyan na ganyan nangyare

The water droplets are totally normal and just a byproduct of condensation. As long as there's no excessive smoke, it’s a good sign that the engine is running efficiently.

Copper wire po.

Baka may problema sa wiring, pa-check mo na lang sa electrician para malaman kung ano ang problema.

Child lock po.

Check mo muna ang mga connections o linisan mo muna. Kung hindi parin maayos, palitan mo na.

Suzuki Every Wagon (DA64W) 2007

@@da64wdiy Thank you. So this vehicle was only for the Japan market and maybe a few others on the other side of the world. None of these in North America. I wonder if any country in South America had it.

Small po.

As long as the car’s running, you should be fine without kitten approval 😸

Have you checked the wiring harness near the intake manifold or traced it back from the sensor? A service manual might help, or a mechanic could assist if it’s hard to locate!

It might be a good idea to get a second opinion from another mechanic.

clunk noise over bumps is usually from sway bar links; quick diag is to unbolt both, set them aside and drive the car over bumps and see if it goes away, if it does, then replace the sway bar links. Worn ball joints are easier to spot since they will have play, unless the sway bar links are really worn, then those will have play by hand but the clunky noise does not have play but will have visual corrosion, they usually fail when exposed to the environment when the boot rips, etc.