I use a cura slicer for a bamboo printing. It's a pain in ass to go in and change the G code but it can be done.

Why don't you use bambu studio? I've used cura for years and now i'm happy that I switched to bambu studio.

Correct

Yes, I'm from Belgium.. As long as people understand me it's good 😉 my English accent isn't the best

Thank you, I know it uses a lot of filament but you don't need to use all the supports. Some angles are just perfect so yoi don't need supports.

@@Creative_3DPrinting Thank you for replying. I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I'll keep trying until I get it!

@@jeffreys-vu6gd Perfect!

Thank you very much!!

Enorm bedankt :)

That rotation mechanism was a difficult one to design. Thank you very much for watching!

Did the sensor work before you did the Jyers firmware upgrade?

I was under the impression I needed to do a firmware upgrade because default merlin didn't support runout sensors.

So you didn't got the sensor with your printer? I think it maybe has something to do with the Normally open/closed stand of the sensor. Maybe try to don't push on the sensor when printing to see if you get an error or not, if you don't get an error at that moment, that will mean that you need to swap the wires on the pcb of your printer.

Yes I did but just not enough, at makerworld is a 3mf file with all the right supports for a nice Result.

Thank you very much🙏

Thank you very much for watching!

Drybox is better indeed but AMS can perfectly handle carbon fiber filaments. Before we had a drybox at work, we printed 24/7 PAHT-CF parts with the filament in de AMS without ever needing to replace a feeder and we still do it 😉

@@Creative_3DPrinting The ams can print it yes but it very bad for your ams. I have worked with the Bambu printers since the day the x1 released. The only supported carbon fiber Filament is Bambu carbon fiber Filament and not even all it I remember correctly. The reason some are okay is because of the extremely low amount of carbon fiber. Also 99% of carbon fiber filaments are weaker than pla due to how carbon fiber functions you would need a very specific part and settings. Even then you need continuous carbon fiber Filament which is quite expensive otherwise it won't make the part stronger.

​@@sebastian_olthuis The filament I use is compatible for the AMS (it was on the website) but as you said, it's better to use a drybox.

@@Creative_3DPrinting yes it can handle it. But it will require you replacing parts due to carbon fiber, being very abrasive.

For me it looks like it's in stock: store.anycubic.com/products/montherboard-for-3d-printer?variant=44368907567266

Awesome!!

Your welcome ;)

Haha your welcome!

Never use a vacuum cleaner around sensitive electronics in the winter or in a dry environment. The static buildup is insane and it may kill your printer

Oh really? I Didn't know that, thanks! I will never do that again :)

I have printed lots of tpu parts in the past: seals, phone/camera covers and all of that with bowden tube, no problem for it, just print at maximum speed of 30mm/s and the nozzle will not clogg

If it is a loose connection, you're able to insert 1,75mm (normal) filament in those holes

The benchy boat is the most popular print ever and you can download the original model on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622

Maybe try all different COM ports (USB ports)

Where in the video did you heard ringing?

Can see it on the last frame? Is your input shaping off?

@@Creative_3DPrinting you need to research what's ringing on 3d printing. It's not like your phone ringing. haha Also you can adjust temp and maintain same speed, that affects glossiness of the print too. But usually matte finish means you are not melting the filament enough and produces weak prints. Unless you are printing with matte filaments.

For the ringing it turns out that it's normal for bambu lab printers due to the CoreXY system driven by belts and pulleys. And I know you can also change the temperature for changing the surface finish but setting the temperature too high can cause nozzle clogging with PLA so personally if I want a glossy finish I'd like to just print slower, it feels a bit safer ;)

I forgot to add the links, here they are, (also added in video description): LED stip: www.amazon.de/dp/B09SWQPDHC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Potentiometer: www.amazon.de/-/nl/dp/B07RFH89KG/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_nl_NL=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=10RRTR58NJP6V&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.YBXtO3AMMg2SEGsaZ6md1XyzXj7tr-pBUxGXXVjtwe7NwfzQJx0dVZrrpQh_7plHJgp4R23NPWh8x3mWo0U69PnBBjHPCo0B3Bb6zE8ub3UDUoruSBfwOWOujM0tJtP1KYKX0GiztvHeWCkyaPytGifES8-X4NX7uqMdEkqC4BxwS-EYi40J-iIgBAzcEIy16jQXPoz6uxUhq25SokyPBinu7Xo4ZLU8hJhEE4u6u91OhTcEY5iJri2jNLgm94oGHaCpI9pyhNP8zKFUIBed_qdgARTgw-9vkDRGEuaMIyM.g0Iask2PZ858KfrVZh5_mLq0YLMZzSIvj-vreAj1anc&dib_tag=se&keywords=b2k%2Bpotentiometer&qid=1715621691&s=industrial&sprefix=b2k%2Bpotentiomete%2Cindustrial%2C92&sr=1-3&th=1

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

Direct drive should not be a problem, in the past I had a Balco 3d Touch and it worden exactly the same ;) It can be that the software on the Kobra is different from the Vyper

First of all, it's a storage system for tools of your printer which stands on the printer with the AMS on top. The glass plate gets a bit higher which is better for the PTFE tube, there are LEDs for better video/timelapses. you can store extra plates under the trays. The glass plate can be removed for doing long prints with for example PLA.

@@Creative_3DPrinting ahhh okay, now I understand 😄 Okay it makes sense now! Nice design!

No problem, thank you :)

I will post the STL files separatly, so you can download them that way but you are able to download them from bambu studio ;)

I uploaded every part as STL, you can find them as "download STL" by clicking at the arrow on the right of "Download or Print" green button. Happy 3d printing!

Thank you!

I do have it for Bambu slicer which is about the same.

This is that bambu printprofile: makerworld.com/en/models/84382#profileId-90192

Did you open the sensor already to see if there aren't any filament rests in it?

@@Creative_3DPrinting yeah, it seems fine to me at least physically, idk if it's an electronic problem

Thanks a lot :)

You can go to the link in the description where you can find a better image of it

Here is that link: makerworld.com/nl/models/84382#profileId-90192

Awesome!

My travel speed is 120 mm/s for the first layer it's 60 mm/s as travel speed

Thanks for watching m! It was €600 to make and €710 inclusive the nozzle camera installation.

Awesome!

nvm. you show english at the end LOL ty

Awesome!

Now there is an update that lower the noise of the steppermotors and if you don't set the fans at 100%, it's not that 80% but still very loud

Thanks for watching :) With the AMS on top it is 390 mm x 390 mm, if the door is open de depth is 390 mm (printer) + 310 mm (door). The AMS-HUB is about 18mm and the spoolholder is 90mm. I do also have a small box on the back for the poops of the printer but you can choose for yourself how big that box will be ;)

@@Creative_3DPrinting in inches please? Ty

I made a different video about that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5WWq3iXabx_itE