Might want to consider changing your oil pressure sending unit. Mine eventually failed and the pressure gauge came down to a reasonable level with the new one.

Fact: WJ use Mopar MS-9769 orange coolant

@@GmanWJ I swore the manual said specifically gold HOAT. Maybe I'm wrong but I've read multiple forums that specifically name zerex g05

@@ktdgolive405 If you drain and flush with distilled water you can swap to zerex HOAT, but do not mix it with your orange Mopar factory-supplied coolant.

Reviews from my Jeeper associates are mixed. I like them fine. I still have them on the front CAs. Anything else there gave me a scary case of the shimmies.

I used a 5/8" to great effect

These guys can answer all your questions better than I. I use Mopar coolant from the Jeep dealer. Stant is a good thermostat. Your head gaskets are probably already leaking, do not let it get that hot. www.jeepforum.com/forums/wj-grand-cherokee-forum.310/

Do you have a 4.7L V8 like mine? 4.0L inline 6 may have a different thermostat location.

Pliers, 9mm socket or wrench. Some people would advocate for a new thermostat housing and 9mm bolts, and new radiator hose since you are down there and the fluid is out. You will need a larger set of pliers to remove the hose clamps if you do that

No I had a push/pull when on/off the throttle due to the failed bushings. Worn bushings may cause wag, both upper and lower CAs. Rear upper ball joint is also a suspect for wag

Rubber gasket was built into my thermostat.

You may need to change fluids in the rear differential. 75w-140 plus Mopar friction modifier if you have limited slip diff or Quadradrive.

First: I recommend a swivel socket specifically for spark plugs, they usually have a foam insert that gently grips the spark plug to keep it from falling out. I guess a magnetic socket would work, I have never used one like that. Second: the double extension note for #8 was not a mistake; tool assembly order is swivel socket, extension, u-joint, extension, ratchet. The extension lengths in the socket set you found should get you through the job, but I do highly recommend at least one locking extension to plug into the spark plug socket because when you tighten the spark plugs, the socket has a firm grip on the plug and a standard extension will often let go of the socket when you try to pull it out, leaving the socket down in the hole. It can be a hassle getting it out. If you do not have a locking extension, you can try wrapping the junction with black electrical tape to keep the socket attached, that often works. A "u-joint" (universal joint) is a swiveling joint that allows you to put a small bend between the socket and the ratchet. Do a search for "3/8 universal joint" Example: www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Universal-Socket-8-Inch-CMMT99291/dp/B07QDVS6RS/ref=sr_1_14_mod_primary_new?crid=1V0L1WB5US2Q3&dchild=1&keywords=3%2F8+universal+joint&qid=1611520165&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=3%2F8+u%2Caps%2C260&sr=8-14 Do not crossthread or overtighten the plugs during installation. Good luck.

No knocks for me with this one. Instead, the vehicle would jerk to the side when off/on the throttle.

Knocks in the rear, common causes are shocks and the upper ball joint and/or upper control arm.

Yes I have an Addco 684 in there.

@@GmanWJ how ya like it?

@@PNW4130 It was great if you only run on asphalt, corners wonderfully. If you go off-road at all, it is too stiff. So I switched to the smaller Addco 634 which is still very impressive on the highway. Really all you need unless you think your 20 year old WJ is a race car (it is not).

Sorry for not replying earlier. I hooked one end to the sway bar and the other end to ... well probably the transfer case skid plate, but I think you could use the "frame rails" on the side. There are a couple of holes there for rock slider mounting points that should work

When the vehicle is sitting with wheels on the ground without jacks or jack stands. The suspension is loaded when all of the weight is supported by the springs.

Yes, exactly. You must make sure the vehicle weight is back on the wheels before you tighten everything up. If you don't, your bushings will quickly fail and you will have to repeat this repair.

@@GmanWJ wrong. Makes no difference

@@OSDCrusher Sorry, but this misinformation is 100% wrong.