@@kristinzhivago6838 thank you! Glad to know these are helpful for RT owners.

Hi. I ran a bolt through the slots at the base of the BR1, with spacers behind. I added a picture to our gallery here: www.elvinray.com/gallery It's the last picture in the album on page 3. It shows the where I put the bolt.

Thank you. After 3 years of having it on board, I'm would not want to cruise without it.

Garmin has a version of Navionics charts that you can install. They cost between $100 and $200 depending on which regions you want, and whether you want relief shading or not. It's s subscription service, so you can download updates continually throughout the year in ActiveCaptain and then transfer them to the chart plotter. I'll see if I can put a video together on that process.

We usually cruise with the anchor locked in place, but it will definitely self-deploy if unlocked with no intervention. I bought the Mantus anchor components directly from Mantus Marine. About twice a year, they have a 20% off everything sale, the last being around July 4. That's the best time to buy Mantus ground tackle. I love our anchor setup now.

You can see them on our web site here: www.elvinray.com/checklists

We have the Nebolink device that handles the tracking automatically. I access the data from our Apple devices. I'll do a video on Nebo soon.

The water tank vent is inside? Really? Interesting. Our vent is a through-hull right below the deck and next to the vent for the waste tank. I wonder why they would vent it inside.

Great tip/tool. Thanks! 😎

@@CruisingElvinRay Maybe it isn't. I'm going off the 2022 owner's manual. It wouldn't be the first deviation from the manual that Fluid Motion chose. But in fairness. our first four boats all vented their water tanks inside. Maybe because they were blue water sailboats and one always wants to minimize holes in the hull. Owners of power boats seem to l-o-v-e those long lines of stainless and plastic thru-hulls that hint at the gadgetry inside.

It’s part number 188221 at Lowe’s. It’s a standard plumbing part.

Nevermind :)

Thanks Jack!

I don't think the day cover interferes really any more than the mattress topper does. It does require pulling the day cover and mattress cover back to get to the side storage areas, and I keep spare parts and such in the forward storage area because accessing that area is pretty difficult. In the end, though, the mattress topper is more of the issue than the day cover. Showering is also a little less convenient, because the topper/day cover has to be folded out of the way to make room for the shower. Again, not too big of a deal.

@@CruisingElvinRay Well, a 'mattress topper' is itself a choice to reduce access and increase inconvenience. Hardly an endorsement that a second cover is less inconvenient. But if one's preference is for appearance over access, that's certainly understandable. FWIW we find in the Cutwater the permanent removal of the aft V-berth insert is all but essential, as it opens up access to the head door and allows standing headroom in the cabin. And that makes any kind of topper a more awkward choice. Maybe that does not apply to the R-23.

@@jacktyler7599 Sounds like you don’t have the split head door. It’s factory standard now, and eliminated the need to move the aft cushion to open the door. Some owners started the trend by cutting their door in half and adding hinges, the factory then adopted it. Here’s my example: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4Xdl6Ggg795oq8si=MJOQqKqib6-nVwnd

@@CruisingElvinRay Dave, every time we exchanged comments, I discover something else I didn't know. So thank you. Actually, we do have the factory split door - one of the C242 to C248 changes, I think. Your short video shows our two floor plans to be identical down there. I think it's just that we prefer more cabin sole being routinely useful vs. that aft-most v-berth insert being used. But hey, is that a KEY in your door!? It's a real pain, on our boat, to try and secure the door in the closed position from up in the main cabin. Seems to require wrist/finger geometry only uneasily available to me. That key suggests to me you can easily 'lock' the head door from up in the main cabin side. Sure? Keyed lock? Key? Nope, don't think we have those things...but maybe I missed noticing them. Perhaps too busy with sweat filled eye sockets getting the Honda 2200 rigged up on the swim platform so we can air condition the boat on the hook or on occasion underway. SW Florida is not an inviting boating climate these days. [Sorry for the text wall.]

@@jacktyler7599 yes, ours has a key. We never take the key out, but it is how we use the lock lost often.

Thanks for watching!

When using the inverter, you definitely need to watch your Amp gauge on the power panel. I also keep an eye on my Victron app to watch power consumption at the 12V source. 2000W at 120V is about 16.6A. So, for example, running your A/C is going to consume about 9A at 120V. Running the water heater on top of that would put you over for sure. The inverter would just shut down with an E03 overload error, if the breaker on the A/C panel didn’t trip. Restarting the inverter with a lower load would resolve it. The GFCI outlet on the inverter is purely for ground faults.

@@CruisingElvinRay Thanks for following up with that reply, Dave. Helpful and much appreciated. It's a "first" for me to buy a boat with so many systems and their respective sensors, logic controls and interrelationships. Not surprisingly, it's been fellow owners who have made it less stressful and more understandable. Your YT channel and individual A's to Q's has been part of that, so feel some pride today in what you have contributed to the greater good.

@@jacktyler7599 Thank you Jack. These boats may be small, but they have the systems of a 30-40ft boat. And with any boat, the more you understand the systems and design, the more fun you will have on the water!

It was an option from Ranger Tugs at the time we ordered our boat.

We ordered it as an option. It’s called the aft cockpit sun shade with sunset shade on the build sheet.

Spoken like someone who’s never backed up the boat with an outboard engine. To move the back of the boat left or right, you steer all the way from one side to the other. Post a link to your video backing your boat into a slip in coastal waters with wind and current. Show me how it’s done.

@@CruisingElvinRay Yes, we would love to see your video where you never turn the wheel but once on an outboard while backing in with 12 mph wind and current. Please provide that link.

We’ve traveled every inch of the NC intracoastal and love it.

Hey Jack. I missed replying to this and just noticed. I went with the Mantis based on the rest of the system (Bow roller, Swivel, Bridle, Snubber, bow stop), so the anchor was a natural fit. I didn't want to deal with the hoop on the end of the M1. The M2 had great reviews and we have been extremely happy with it. We were on a lee shore anchorage overnight near Vero Beach a few weeks back and she held firm through a very uncomfortable night. Very happy with it.

It's definitely a LOT more comfortable when Lisa is back there to handle the lines!

I will add a link to the description. It's www.nebo.global

Also, the spinner I have is available on amazon here: a.co/d/3ox8124. I think it's a good color match to the wheel. Some people like a smaller spinner that doesn't stick out as much.

@@CruisingElvinRay Thanks, Dave. As it happens, having seen that knob on Martin's wheel (Channel Surfing), I had just ordered it this morning. Any clarification on the identity of that software you use? I'm just getting back into boating, so no doubt I'll be catching up on the myriad of tech leaps since sailing to Australia in 2010.

Rats! Didn't see the earlier post. Thanks for the nebo link, Dave.

I don’t know for sure, but I do know that most of the wiring from the top deck follows the teak center panel, then goes over the starboard panel (wooden panel with the porthole) down to a rigging tube that leads to the helm. The solar wires may follow a similar path on the port side the back to the cockpit.

They stay on 24/7, even when the Bimini canvas is off.

Haven’t had any issues since, but also have installed the Lenco AutoGlide system as an upgrade. @LetsGoChannelSurfing has good videos on that.

@@CruisingElvinRay Yes, Martin did an excellent job of that. Thankfully, it seems to require more money than talent to install.

I can honestly say the only time I’ve ever touched the display gauge was when I tie-wrapped it temporarily during the initial install and when I permanently mounted it in on the electrical panel. I don’t think I’ve ever pushed a button on it. The phone at the helm comes in handy for the Victron app, Garmin ActiveCaptain, and navigation apps. We also used it for the Nebo app before we installed NeboLink.

@@CruisingElvinRay Yup, what I suspected. Assuming it is located out of the 'wet', I'm inclined to put the monitor where it's easy to mount. I was very impressed with the Victron app. Thanks for these replies, Dave.

Single-handed, it would definitely be easier docking to starboard. I’ve got good access to the mid-ship cleat through the window at the helm and can throw a line around the cleat on the dock. Possible on the port side as well, but I don’t like leaving the helm when I’m docking.

@@CruisingElvinRay Helpful to know, Dave. Thank you.

Then maybe you should forward through it like I do when I don’t want to hear someone’s music. I do it ever week on a couple people I follow. Just a thought to ease your distress.

So was your comment

Post a link to them here please.

Yes, I second that. I would like to see your pump out system too. Do you just hook up on the outside some how, or do you have a Y valve and another pipe?