If you add too much oil and lower the suspension, the oil container might burst, because it is sealed. Almost did that when depressurizing my suspension... The fuse for the pump is acting as a pressure limit as well. So there's something wrong down the hydraulic lines...or there might be dirt in the needle valves... Be very careful when working on the hydractive! It is a high pressure system, tiny jets spewing out can easily cut and penetrate your skin...

@@lynxonwatch Last time fuse go ,when car down. But up it die pump. Put in new fuse it go up but last time sounde tik tak tik tak like old man go slow up ? TO much oile Dont break fyse??

Oil level check: Put car in standard height. Oil level should be in the middle of the TOP of the oil container housing (there is a rough plastic area on it, towards front). Put car in low position. Oil level MUST NOT be higher than end of rough area on plastic towards filler cap. Put car in high position: Oil level must be above lower end of rough area. When the fuse blows, the pump is drawing too much current. The higher the pressure, the higher the current through the pump. The pump is very strong, so there is something wrong away from the pump (stuck valve or stuck hydractive cylinder...).

Are there valves to screw on so the A40 breaks. The electricity can't be in the pipe and piston system at the back. When water comes, it would spark. Have googled for 2 years in 5 languages ​​no one has talked about this when the A40 breaks. the pump is very used and sounds tired

There is no electricity in the pipes, you are right, only pressure. Pressure makes the pump draw a lot of current, too much => fuse blows. AFAIK there are 4 valves in the pump unit, and then maybe one per axle (for sure, if it is a hydractive 3+). Nothing to work on. "Tired" pump + blown fuse: Maybe the carbon brush sticks are worn out...or inside everything is full of carbon => short circuit. Might be worth to clean it (lots of videos here on yt about that). "Tried" pump without engine running => bad battery and/or connectors "Tired" pump with engine running => clean connectors and maybe replace the carbon brushes inside the motor. That's about all I know...unfortunately, I don't have the Citroen anymore...it went to the crusher ;( ;( ;(...

Citroen давно вернулся к металлу ;(. Но это была удобная, хорошая машина! :) The Citroen has already been converted to metal again ;). But it was a comfortable, good car :).

Thanks. The brakes are really better now, as I have also installed a new disk and a steel braided brake line.

@@lynxonwatch Mine too 👍 Next up I'm making steel bounded brake lines. Can I ask where you bought the front disk? Every seller I can find are out of stock...

@@vinegum8835 Hi, I bought the disc and other parts here: www.motorrad-ersatzteile24.de/motorrad-zubehoer/nach-baugruppe/bremsen-und-zubehoer/bremsscheiben/bremsscheiben-standard/82934/bremsscheibe-vorne-ebc-md6078d?c=22868 It's a EBC Brake Disc.

@@lynxonwatch Thank's

Thank you, very encouraging :)

What??

I did not try this myself, but read about it: There is a valve near the front right suspension which has a bleed screw. So first loosen the sphere while still raised, then lower to lowest position, then open that bleed valve. Fluid will spill, be prepared.

@@lynxonwatch thank you. Now I just have to find that valve. Btw, I have to replace both rear shocks :( cos they are leaking... strange..

At kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4uzqnV6qdSMmZI you can see 2 sheets of paper above the bar: the first is the table, and the second is from Bork's paper. The diagram in Bork's paper is expressed in relative lengths, since for the mathematical description of a bar, it does not matter how long it actually is. Bork's diagram says that, for example, material is removed from 20% to 70% length, this mostly lowers the fundamental frequency. When using the actual bar length, you can compute the actual lengths where to cut/grind - that's what I did, and this is the first excel-table.

Approx 200000km and 15 years.

Glad you found the video helpful. No, I did not dismantle the rear brakes. The brake saddle is held in place by the rear axle, and a groove on the inside of the right swingarm frame. Once you remove the axle, the brake saddle is loose, and can be pulled off the disc. Installation is just a reversal of these steps.

The sphere and my gloves were very slippery, so I just added as much as I thought I could do with clean hands.

At kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4uzqnV6qdSMmZI you can see 2 sheets of paper above the bar: the first is the table, and the second is from Bork's paper. The diagram in Bork's paper is expressed in relative lengths, since for the mathematical description of a bar, it does not matter how long it actually is. Bork's diagram says that, for example, material is removed from 20% to 70% length, this mostly lowers the fundamental frequency. When using the actual bar length, you can compute the actual lengths where to cut/grind - that's what I did, and this is the first excel-table.

Yes I agree. However, the sphere was so slippery, that I "guessed" that I could have tightened a clean sphere another 1/4 turn by hand.

Bleeding is done by operating the hydractive while the car is stationary. Start the engine, then raise and lower it 5 times to the max / min positions. THis bleeds the system. Also turn the steering from lock to lock a couple of times, since it uses the same oil.

@@lynxonwatch thanks