When I look through I don’t find the screw with the tac weld that I see in your bike.

@@maniabraham23 This is a US spec bike with the Euro 5 exhaust. Ours have that screw that you see with just the tiniest of tack welds that only takes a moment with a dremel to grind off. My Ducati V4 Rally race exhaust baffles have the exact same set of tack welded screws. Seems a common thing for these baffles. Perhaps the installation is different for different country specs? Where are you located?

@davidmohr4004 I'm based in India. All I see is a clear pipe with no screws or welds.

Definitely no need to tune after the baffle removal.

thank you!

Hi Craig...I actually could not find a good you tube walk through. The only one I found was a dude who did everything from the left side and he just did the gorilla thing and wiggled and tugged with loosened frame rail on the left. I was uncomfortable doing that and it looked really hard actually. One guy posted a video after he was done...as I did...and made the comment that it was super easy if you remove the right side frame rail which is how I decided to go that route. I wish I had recorded mine but I didn't except for some photos. I can go back on my phone and see if I have any footage I can share. Shy of that if you have any specific questions feel free to reach out and Ill answer anything I can. If need be let me know and you can shoot me a text in case I miss you on the you tubes. D

@@davidmohr4004 I think I will probably be good to go, thank you so much for the offer! I'll probably start out taking off the slip-ons (removing the entire rear peg, rather than by using the clip method), remove all the pipe hardware, go ahead and scoot the tank back and remove the radiator bolt, and then get busy on the right side frame rail. I really do appreciate all the feedback. Was hoping to have my son give me an extra hand, but he will be tied up, so I will be flying solo on this one. And I, too, probably won't record any video of either! Lol too much of a pain to have to manage the camera as well as keep track of what I'm doing. Oh, one quick question, where did you end up getting the torque specs from? I have found that the Triumph technical manuals are all subscription based now, and I haven't been able to locate the torque specs for the frame rail or catalytic converter bolts when remounting the X-Pipe. Thanks again!

@@thecraiginator I found an entire torque spec set for the whole bike. I think it was in the tech section of Triumph Rat. Let me find it and I will post it or a link.

​@@davidmohr4004 I have a follow-up question for you. I am having some substantial difficulty getting the rear mids to seal into the X-Pipe, and not sure what I'm doing wrong. Did you have any trick that you had to do to get those goofy clamps to seal well? Man getting that Euro 5 cat out was a true bugger. I ended up having to loosen both sides, and I could not even get to the nut on the back of the top frame bolt, which made it extra special fun. Barely fits, with the togas, too. Tight clearances, that's for sure

@@thecraiginator I remember the liners being a little testy...at first I tried to slide one in and kind of caught the edges of the gasket a bit...fortunately just stopped and smoothed them out then tired again slowly and kind of rolling/twisting it as I went and the pipes slid over the weave gasket ok. Just took a bit of finesse as I recall. Sorry that bolt was a bear...I picked up a set of those funky offset closed end wrenches at harbor freight just to solve that issue. I didn't have a set of those when I started. It could have been done with a straight wrench but I stopped for the night and picked up the offsets the next day to ease that part a bit as I recall.

I think it would have wiggled out if the frame rail was loosened and just left on its bolts. It would take quite a bit a finagling from my experience. Also, I don't like the idea of the frame hanging on the exposed threads of the frame bolts. Once loosened the bolts come right off as does the rail and the whole assembly comes out easy and clean. I don't think any time is saved just loosening and wiggling the cat out vs just taking the rail off and reinstalling. It was very straightforward.

@@davidmohr4004 Thanks much for the follow-up. I am just relieved to not have to take both frame rails off, since you were able to get it out with just the one. And yeah, I don't really like the idea of having the frame real resting on the threads, either. Sounds like a pretty straightforward job of pulling it off and putting it back on. Thanks again!

Throttle side frame rail. 3 bolts as I recall. Just make sure to check torque settings on there when you put them back. You can get them off the triumph site.

Glad it worked out well for you!

Hi Matt. No it is. It welded at the header. The header pipe bolts to the head and the header pipe is connected to the car inlet with normal collar fittings.

The only X pipe that will work is the free spirits one currently, as it includes clamp on rear mid pipes (that go from the X-Pipe to the slip-on). I've read that a few companies are working on similar X pipes, but nobody has any yet. And the British customs headers have baffles in the header, so I have zero interest in putting that restriction on. I can only assume they caved to the EU by putting these baffles in.

That one is the smallest of the three in the line. It is the Commuter Lite CL-1060 R. I actually ordered both that and the next size up which is the Sport to see them on the bike. I found the Sport to be a little bigger and bulkier than I cared for and just don't think I need the space on that bike. The fits perfectly, like it was made for that Speed Twin, it had plenty of room and is even expandable. Great bag and could not be happier with the choice. www.nelsonrigg.com/motorcycle-luggage/tail-bags/commuter_lite-detail

@@davidmohr4004 Thanks for the info. Looks like it fits well. And your bike sounds great from here! #beast

I am seriously thinking about those Thruxton Ohlins....They look great and folks seem to love them on the Speedy.

@@davidmohr4004 That's some tall bank to spend on a set of shocks. Imho they look bulky, flashy and are overkill. I'm soo glad I didn't go that route. Ktec makes fully adjustable remote reservoir units that I almost stupidly bought. I'm really happy with the Razor iii set I had them set up with springs for my weight. $825. Buy a Thruxton if you need fully adjustable racing suspension.

@@andrewbecker3700 Ill have to look into that. The resi shocks look good and I have seen them in black, but come to think of it I think the guy had powder coated them. The gold is VERY bright on a Speedy. I have not priced the Ohilns as that is down the road. For my riding style they are most definitely overkill. I will never need that kind of performance. I will have to take a look at pricing an other solutions. Ill go have a look at these Ktech....thanks for the tip! edit*** Is this the Model you were talking about. I found them for the Thruxton not the Speedy but assume same fitment? www.ktechsuspensionusa.com/p-22249-k-tech-suspension-razor-iii-rear-shocks.aspx

@@davidmohr4004 Yep, that's the place I got mine from. If I'm not mistaken the Razor IVs are $1300+! The thing I'm most concerned with when modding is weight and function. Obviously price is a factor also, so $1700 for fully adjustable remote reservoir Ohlins isn't practical for "my" Speed Twin. I'm done modding for now, after bolting on the Hepco&Becker crash bars I waited 46 days for on backorder. Good luck finding a set of shocks that suit your style. IMHO the Razor iii is a perfect fit on the new Speed Twin. They look clean and practical with more than enough adjustability for my needs. I looked at shocks for months before deciding on the Razor iii for $825 set up with springs for my weight.

@@davidmohr4004 I've seen quite a few guys buy used Thruxton take off shocks and they "ALL" say the same thing. Way too firm, and they hate the way the bike rides with them. Remember, suspension works best when theres a good balance front to rear. I would spend the least amount you can on a set that's dialed for your weight and the type of riding you do. $1700 dollar Ohlins not only look foul but the average Gomer has no idea how to use them? The Speed Twin is a very clean and simple bike. Keep it that way and enjoy the open road brother!

Yes you sure can. It will press right back in and the set screw at the 12 o'clock reinstalls just like factory. It just wont have that little tack weld that I assume is to make it Euro 5 compliant.

So far so good. Off the bat it seemed like it adapted itself just fine and is running very very well. Nothing twitchy at the bottom as I have heard a couple folks say after modding, albeit with different setups. It has been quite cold here soI was only out for very short rides in the neighbor hood. I finally got it out for a longer ride over the weekend and was able to stretch it out a bit. It really runs very nice...super smooth great sound and wonderful burble on the overrun with decel and not a bunch of loud random backfire or pop. Super happy with the tone of those factory mufflers. The one thing I notice now is 1st gear seems just a little short perhaps. Its already a torquey bike and seems a little quicker on the torque now. Some of that may be that I am in sport mode now that I am used to the bike. It's quite nice as it is but if first gear could be just a tad longer it would be perfect. That may be gearing more than the fueling though. All in all...great mod so far.

@@davidmohr4004 Great comment, deserved a thank you from me.

Glad there was something helpful for you.

You are probably right...but I really have no idea what I am doing. There are loads of great how to vids out there with great cameras and angles and editing. I just posted a couple of things that I would found helpful where it was not just quite as easy as it was in a narration. Great point and if I do any others maybe I will try to film it while I'm actually working on the bike. Cheers!

If it is loose enough you may be able to use a seal puller. If you need any leverage the problem is the sleeve that the baffle sits in. It is a tight fit and any leverage applied would likely tweak the lip of the sleeve the baffle is housed in. both of mine were very equal in the tight fit. They cetainly could have been levered out but not without prying against the black anodized tips. I think you will like the sound with the baffles out just as much as the V&H. I thought I was going the V&H route until I heard the stock cans without the baffles. Enjoy!

ROFL...Hurrikan. I'm a transplant from San Francisco (18 years) so that took a little getting used to! Looking forward to getting the Speedy down to Southern Utah once the spring hits. Some fantastic roads down there. I'm finding the ST pretty easy to fiddle with so far. Waiting on heated handgrips on back order....that should be kinda fun. Congrats on the new bike and bet you are looking forward to delivery. Enjoy and feel free if you have any questions!

How do you like those Motech bars? I have been considering adding some and there are some option out there. The Motech seem nice and understated while providing what looks like some good protection in case it drops.

@@davidmohr4004 I really like the SW Motech bars because they are a thick D-loop and do not have the third bar going across the engine. From the side profile they are nearly invisible. I would absolutely choose them again and they are a great quality and price at below $200. Sorry for the late reply, I did not see the question until now. Please vlog on!

I noticed very, very little pop on the stock system. It had a nice little burble to it on the overrun. I will say that when I removed the baffles from the stock system before I did the decat it picked up a little pop. I assume due to a little more backflow into the exhaust without those baffles in. It now has a bit of pop as you decel...not constant all the way down which is nice for me. It's a lot less signifigant than say a full Termi on the multistrada. I don't like it popping and crackling all the way down. Just a throaty pop and burble as the RPMs line up. It's a really good balanced sound now.

I think you will enjoy both...fun quick projects and give a really nice look. I am planning to put a rad guard and headlight guard as well...just waiting for the headlight guard to come back in stock to combine for free shipping. I am leaning to the Motone rad guard as it is dark...the aluminum ones just looks a little too bright under there. Still deciding...