I have a 2019 Jeep Wrangler and I have the same issue but am not sure how to remove the interior of the door.

Awesome job Sir

What do you do when you break off one of the top bolts

I've had problems at the pump for months with it not wanting to start after I put gas in and it's progressively gotten worse to the point of gas spilling back out of the filler neck onto the ground if I let it after putting a gallon in.. I've been carrying around a jug of gas. Please help me! I do know a little bit about what's going on I'm just not sure which one to try first money is definitely an issue so I don't want to waste any I would love just to bypass the system I have a Land Rover Discovery sport 2016 for reference

looked like it was fightin ya for a minute but not enough to phase ya. thank you for sharing

i just stuck a real strong magnet to the truck and when the door closes it holds it shut

Thank for your help 👍👍✌️✌️.

Thank you for the video, it was a big help.👏👏👍

10mm? Oh, crap.

had to drop a like after the "universal creeper" lmao

On 2007 jeep liberty you have to remove ESP button. How can this button connector can be removed ? On your video you don't have ESP button on your upper plastic part of your multifinction block, because your Liberty is under 2006.

I'm curious if a transmission flush is necessary? I have a 2001 TJ with 90,400 miles and some grinding gears on 1st and sometimes 2nd. Thoughts?

Great job! Thank you

So this won't work if I've only got 1 key? And my key and the fob are separate. My key doesn't have any buttons on it

Hey brother, thanks for the very helpful video. It took me longer than it seemed to take you (but I’m an amateur). After getting everything back together, it all worked, but I had a little hum in the heater fan and the airbag light was on in the dash. But I have hot heat, no more leaking coolant or foul smell, confidence that my a/c & heat systems are fit, and I saved over $1k! Many thanks! Yours was the best of several videos for this task.

Hey, I appreciate the video help me out immensely. You’re the Bob Ross of auto mechanics. Your soft tones are relaxing.

Nice! No fire or persuaders required (chuckle). Thank you for sharing

Hello, "FreeAutoMechanic" I was analyzing your channel and saw that in your channel have some problem, That's why your channel is not much growing and not getting much engagement, If you can solve these problems, Your channel will grow like a storm. If you tell I can tell these problems. Where can I tell? Here or email?

Mate love your posts but can the music not needed

Can you give me information on where you ordered it so I can order? Please

I've a few of those to do myself when it warms up. Good timing. Thank you for sharing

I got mine today! Will install tomorrow and watch it again lol. Thanks for the video!

what happens if you don’t fix the small leak ?

Thank you ... great video just what I was looking for !

Did you add oil to compressor or did it come pre-oiled?

I appreciate your video. I was educated! I learned that I'd prefer to pay you for the this job but I'd be willing to assist from afar. Where are you located? 😊

Here's what I don't get: people say that the vent valve solenoid is open by default, when no voltage is applied, and it only closes when the computer sends voltage to it (for creating a vacuum during leak/blockage tests). But in that case I don't understand how the vapor canister is able to "trap the fumes" and release them to the engine via the purge valve (which is closed by default and opens only when voltage is applied)? Because as long as the vent valve is open, all fumes will travel through the charcoal filter and out into the atmosphere, meaning that there's no trapping. And to make matters even worse - your fuel gets continuously evaporated this way. Also, many videos have completely opposite explanations which are 100% conflicting, where one guy says the vent valve is a 1-way street for getting air IN the vapor canister, but never OUT, then another guy says the complete polar opposite (only OUT, never IN), then some others say it's a 2-way street for both IN and OUT. I'm completely lost here...

Do you need the 2 keys or it can be done with just one ?

youre full of shit about remounting it without showing how you adjusted the pump when you realized the mounting holes were 90 degrees off

Thank you, that is very helpful

I noticed you didn't show burping/purging the refrigerant from the manifold after you hook up the refrigerant canister, before filling the system.This purges out the ambient air from the line and manifold so it doesn't contaminate the system with air/moisture or at least allows a more "pure" refrigerant system. It may not be totally necessary but I'm always OCD about stuff... Great video! Thanks!

Are you always this patient or are you cutting out the frustration bits? 🤔 Great video!! Thanks!

Great stuff like that video good talking it out and showing us good thanks .

Great

Clip wires/ use regular 6 point socket

I had a sinking brake pedal in my 2012 MKX. I watched your video to see how you changed the master cylinder. I'm glad that I watched that video to the end and saw your recommendation for freeing a stuck valve in the ABS module. I didn't know that was the problem, but I always try the easiest fix first. Braking hard from 50 mph fixed my sinking brake pedal problem! Thank you!

Audio is too low, otherwise all good.

Sweet episode with 2 new to me cool tools. Can imagine the pain in the rump it would be without those tools. Thank you for sharing.

For the two keys, do they need to both be master keys? Or can I use one master key and a duplicate of it?

Well done video, thanks.

Big fan of that Creeper I got one just like it.

Had same thing happen. Go to harbor freight for $ 2.00 get some rare earth magnets . Glue to inside. Problem solved .

I might be pulling a v-10 from an 06 econoline soon. I have been wanting to modify an engine hoist to lower the vertical post to the same height as the engine then driving it right in to hook to the engine.

Do you have one for the evap system in the back? I am trying to temporarily remove it to get to the taillights and install nuts in the back. I don't have the OEM bolts and the ones I have are smaller.

Thanks for the video. I just redid the heater core on my 2004 this last weekend and your video was one of the ones I checked out prior for some tips. I agree with you that while it's not a fun job, but it's not as bad as some of the other videos make it out to be. On my 2004, I was able to get the panel back and the right side up enough to get the HVAC box out without dropping the column. I did remove the instrument cluster and the levers on the steering column to gain a couple of inches. For me, the worst part was the lower stud on the firewall side right behind the engine. On the 4.0L six there just isn't much room between the engine and the stud to access, and that stud started spinning in the plastic on the other side. Overall I was about 5-1/2 hrs total and that was probably 45 minutes of it! While I had it out I also replace the blower and resistor for the ~$100 in parts. I know those can be done while in the Jeep, but the resistor had already started to fail (I was down to the two highest speeds) and it was easier to change the blower when the whole system was out. Thanks again for your time in putting this together. Mark

"Someone's gonna know you intend to turn " haha damn straight brother . Great video / thanks for the help

Appreciate the video!!! Did you remove the gas tank? Didn’t see that mentioned.

Mine is 01 and I'm gonna have to pull shroud and fan before!?! Must be nice...🙄

good work way to stick with it.

I want to tell how I finally got my brakes to bleed on my 2011 edge, I tried many ideas off the internet, I must’ve have bleed it about twenty times, and did the locking the brakes up at about 25 miles a hour. Had brakes but still low pedal. I bought a foxwell nt630 plus bleeder off amazon for about 130.00 on sale, tried that because it actuates the abs module and still nothing different, so I had my wife run that bleeding sequence while I opened the bleeder and shut it at each wheel, it has you hold on the brake while it’s running the module and then tell you to take your foot off the brake, so I did all 4 wheels, got in it and had no pedal at all, I thought I lost everything, so I hook up the foxwell again this time without opening bleeders, running the foxwell like normal, and all of sudden I had not only brakes back, but my pedal was all the way up like new. Yes I got air in the system because I had to change out a master cylinder that went bad. I hear that you won’t get the air out of abs valve body just using normal bleeding, and doing it the normal way with the foxwell didn’t do it either, you have to be able to move the air down away from it, that’s why I was opening and shutting bleeders at each wheel, and then ran the foxwell bleeders normal and it worked. I know this may sound questionable, but I’ve been doing my own repairs for more than 40 years on my own vehicles , I’m not a beginner,