You only need high flow for high power applications. Like boost or big bore or something that would make the engine to require larger fuel injectors to supply more fuel. If you're running stock injectors you should be fine with OEM type replacement. I would like to note, I ran into trouble with the quantum pump a bit after this video. I ended up going with a Fuel Pump Factory replacement and that one has been strong for over a year now and many hard passes down the drag strip.

@@mattzahmdotcomwhere did you get the factory replacement and how much was it? I’ve heard mixed reviews on the quantum and a lot of people saying it’s super loud compared to OEM

Schnitz racing dual stage shift light. It has a 4 digit readout on the light with 2 buttons that you use to toggle through the settings and increase or decrease desired values. store.schnitzracing.com/schnitz-led-dual-stage-shift-light-with-autoshift-output/ www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/sch3022.pdf I run through it in the video, but the manual (second link above) has more info. What bike you working on?

Essentially, it is the amount of rpm off from the set launch rpm that the light will turn on and stay on for launch mode. ie. If the launch RPM is set to 3000, and this number, the threshold, or "launch RPM limits setting" (as the instructions refer to it) is set at 200 the light will be on from 800-1200 RPM(off below 800, and flashing over 1200). Similarly, if you set the launch to 5000RPM and the threshold to 300, it will be off below 4700, on from 4700 to 5300, and flash about 5300. This is essentially setting when you're holding the RPM "close enough" as it pretty hard to hold RPM "dead nuts on" without something like a two step. The engine speed likes to creep up and then you start to correct down etc. So the window can be set from +/- 100, to +/-500 RPM. Dending on how precise your wrist is while staging and staring down the tree. Another note to make, I noticed with use over time that my shift light's tach would read just bit different than tach on the dash. I'm finding online that people have found the dash to be off a bit. Closer to correct at low RPM but further off in high RPM, with the dash usually reading higher then actual RPM. Some cases as much to +600 RPM near redline. (Dash reading 11000 when eng actually at 10400). So I'd trust the shift light, being digital device reading and spitting out a number of pulses from the coil. As opposed to a signal that is being translated by a mechanical gauge that may not have been aligned/calibrated perfectly from factory, and probably becomes further off as the machine ages. The transistors don't lie. Like these hips.

I'm sorry but I cannot give much quality advice without diving into the bike with my hands on it. I do know that white smoke typically means burning coolant (steam). Generally speaking, black smoke means the engine is running rich(too much fuel). Blueish smoke means burning oil. White smoke is a tally steam from infiltration of coolant into the cylinder. The blue smoke from burning oil can look whitish, if not sure smell will tell. Coolant will smell weird, kind of like a sweet smell. I wish you the best of luck.

My problem was very similar. But without hands on your bike, I can't be certain. I've been seeing issues with clogged fuel filters on high milage busas as well. So I'd look into possibly bypassing the filter. I've seen some forum posts on how to do that. I hope you got her back running tip top again. Lmk what worked for you.

I'm not 100% certain here. I'm more familiar with cars that have a more complex electronic system. Most go on fail safe and will allow the car to run with poor to no response to throttle input. I have a feeling it should not cause a no start condition on the busa. I would think the sensor determines the plates are assentially closed at idle and would dump in its pre determined injector pulses for idle. I'm not 100% certain here. If you found out, lmk!

You should walk through each wire better

My bike's VSS wire was purple. It t-tapped into the white wire on the light. Different bike years and models are different colors. You'll have to refer to your bike's repair manual for factory wire coding. But for the light colors: -Black to ground (negative batt terminal is the only true and steadiest ground) -Red to ignition power (I used power to the coil, always continuously powered while bike is on) -Green to negative side of the coil. (The ECU cuts ground to the coil. When there is no ground to the coil it forces current through the spark plug gap making the spark. The shift light detects the ground getting cut and coming back and determines this as 2 rotations of the crank shaft for coil on plug. 4stroke engines the cyl fires once per 2 revolutions of crank older bikes that 2 cyls share a coil is going to be different. I can explain that if you're curious.) -White to VSS which location and color on your bike will vary, see repair manual. The brown wire from the light controls auto shift for an air shifter. More parts are required for this so I kept it simple and focused on the basic functions of this light. If you're using it for auto shit there is more devices to get wired in anyway.

It was freezing out! Lol, And barely warmer with the propane heater in the shop I had to turn off during takes to avoid the noise. Couldn't get the runny nose to stop. Plus I was in the zone. So sent it!

Good question! Because the basket is driven in one direction so regardless of whether you’re on the power or decelerating it’s going to slip if you take the pressure off the springs and off the clutch plates.

When launching from a stand still and definitely while doing it with increased RPM before launch, it jars the system. If you look at the teeth on the drive and at the receiver of the slipper mechanism, it does have slope on one side, so you don't feel it on normal accel, but when force pushes opposite on decel, the push on the sloped end pushes in on the slipper receiver part that is attached to the springs that press in the pressure plate, lessening the force of the springs on the pressureplate squeezing the clutch pack and allows the clutch to slip. But you will also note with the teeth and receiver of the slipper mechanism, there is quite a bit of slop there. I'm not 100% sure why this happens but the shock caused the springs springs to release pressure and then squeeze, and doing so back and forth, when the drive teeth shock the receiver on a hard standing launch. This mod removes this mechanism so there is no movement of the hub that holds the springs to the pressure plate aside from only its rotation with the engine. This mod really is for drag racing. And this is not some B.S. product. I absolutely experienced this launching issue myself, and this mod fixed it completely and by itself. I have one note to make to this install however. The spring spacers that add spring tension to the pressure plate are really only necessary with an engine with more power than stock. With my stock engine I find better clutch feel and no unessesary slip of the clutch when wide open down the track.

¡Excelente!

They're definitely good for aggressive riding. Just not good when launching hard from a stand still.

You were right. Shortly after this I replaced the pump. Did a vid on that too. I was just starting to poke around the diag at this point and had realized I wanted to contribute a bit to the "how too" world around the same time.

Sorry for late reply. I fell off of the content creation on here. But the clutch mod fixed my launching issues. Smooth sailing while launching at +4000RPM from a stand still. It will drag the rear tire on early down shifts with this installed though. She's a drag bike only now though, so I'm not shifting up and down really. Just up in a line and then down shifting slowly as RPM drops low as I slow down in the shutdown.

Yes. For me the fuel pump did the trick

It could very well be the pump. Can't say definitively without getting my hands on her. But if she's older, it's not uncommon for the pumps to get tired.

I don't believe I reused the cap. If I remember correctly the cap has a loose fit over the nuts. Not protecting it from fuel or anything. As long as the nuts/screws to the wires are tightened down properly there should be no issue. Hope it helps

Hmmm. Did it try to start and not take? That would have me think maybe carb problems. If it was one of the coils it would probably still start, but would be running bad/misfiring. I'd also look into maybe the kickstand switch? I know on lots of bikes a faulty kickstand switch would cause it to kill when in gear. I wouldn't think the clutch lever/clutch switch would cause it to kill the motor. I'd really have to experience it and be hands on to be much help.

You are so welcome!

Ah. Just a habit from some of my other/previous bikes

On my Gen 1 and gen 2 Busa I have to pull the clutch in to start. My Gen 3 Busa I don't have to pull it in. Just make sure it's in neutral. I don't know what Busa you have but that's not always the case for Busas. Busa 🏍!

I should have mentioned it in the vid, my bad! It is a 30mm

Naw it’s enough going on as is😂 appreciate you for the knowledge and time 🫡🧊

Hard to say. Surging throttle response could also be a symptom of a bad pump. It could also feel like the engine is hitting a ceiling if the pump just can't keep the pressure up enough to meet the high flow at higher rpm.

Hard to say. Could be a number of things. Does the bike run? Also, would have to know how you tested the relay. Could be clicking but still resistance at the through contacts within. Could be an open or a short in the wires or the pump. I really would need to be hands on to help.

Hard to say to be honest. If it's a bad pump, symptoms would most likely be a no start, or lack of power with increased rpm. It would really depend on the conditions when the bike dies. Was it fine then died and wouldn't start? I've heard of bad kickstand switches causing the bike to turn off mid ride. But that's sorta a shot in the dark

Solid breakdown of how it goes at the hit without the clutch mod. It's not fun!

Love my T-Bird! She's sprung a minor oil leak I need to track down. But I lover her!

I can try. What's happenin?

me either but i just saw in this video he turned the kill switch to on....my haynes manual didn't mention that

It's under the rear plastic, below the seat, on the left side. Right next the the battery, but on the outside of the frame. Hope this helps.