Discontinued, buy a new one. Hakko becoming Apple. F..k 😡😡😡them Hakko is rubbish now!

I have a 475a dm44 scope I bought new in 1976. It cost $3900, roughly the cost of 3 new Volkswagen 1300’s. It still works but needs cleaning and especially the switches are intermittent. Could you do a refurbish for me?

I have spent many hours maintaining a fleet of PTS1000 and a few PTS500. You should get a schematic and block diagram to fully understand how to adjust the synthesizer. As these units will show its age, you may need to adjust the potentiometers that sets the main VCO with-in range for each 10 MHz step (they are reachable under the metal tape strip). If the oscillator deviates too much the signal passing through the cavity filter will be attenuated, the filter is just a few MHz wide, and thus give very noisy or no output on that particular 10MHz band. The VCO is mixed with a signal from the decade modules and also from a 10 MHz comb spectrum in a way that any drift from the VCO will be cancelled out. Often the 15-turns pots developes back-lash and tuning will be hard or impossible, but swapping for new pots is no big deal, just a lot of work.

It would have been nice to see the decades rotated to see if output F matched the selection through the array

Hi Zen, I acquired one of these veeeery cheap ... no transformer, blown fuse, and burnt front-end components. I rebuilt the power supply using a scavenged transformer from an old Pioneer stereo, replaced all electrolytics and several shorted Ta caps, and a couple of dead chips. Calibration was okay, except the frequency max was a bit low. More work than was warranted, but a great learning exercise ... and fine for what I use it for. Cheers from DownUnder, Ian

Hello, i want to source 60vdc, but I'm able to source 35vdc. System says it is limited by interlocking. Could you please suggest me a solution?

Zenwizard, what is your favorite solder and diameter?

I would have checked the voltage/ripple on the power rails before replacing the filter caps. If ok, I would have moved on to troubleshooting and then come back to change the filters last. Just the sequence I would have taken.

Customer should be happy, but I assume you didn't let it go with the 6v3 caps in it !

Referring to the trained professional banner at the start, speaking as a trained professional, are you not supposed to analyse the problem before replacing stuff lest one end up with 2 problems?

The caps weren't self-discharging; you could see they were discharging through the sourcemeter at a rate of 10mA. You might want to be careful with that, higher currents and a battery might be quite unintentionally interesting.

FRAM as a replacement for SRAM plus battery is often viable, if a little bit more expensive.

Did you happen to find a manual for this? I picked one up at a hamfest yesterday and I brought it up on the variac and have no output. A schematic would do wonders. Robb

I have nos 83 tube but holding onto it use my solid state mods with removable fuses

Wow thought my 600 had lots spool resitors that conductance switch has them stacked

Dont rplace 9 pin socket just retension it then install a socket saver

why bother to make a video when you show nothing you are doing ???? you don't show the testing nothing ... this channel is not worth watching.

Greetings: The alloy 37/63% is the eutectic ratio with the lowest melting temperature.

meant hunting ,not decoding yt is giving me edit error bug

Go with a different package, tons of options. TO126. I’ve changed out many TO5 for 126 several times and never had an issue.

2N3866 are readily available. ASMOF they're at my local components store at 1.80€ each.

2N3866 transistors were very common high power amps for at-home-hams. There should be plenty on the second hand market. If you want to get in touch, I'll send you some tested on my own Tek 577

Miałem ten generator. Koszmar z potencjometrami. Pozdrawiam

My databook shows the 2N3948 is almost identical, TO39 700MHz 400MA Ic, 5 watt rating. There's several on eBay. A pair would probably be best. (The 2SC908 is also quite close (maybe a tweak to base biasing), seems scarce and somewhat expensive.)

alltronics in CA seems to have 2N3866 for $2 each

Wavetek

You might look for LT1839 video output transistor, and its complement LT5839. They have higher voltage rating and higher Ft.

جهاز من الزمن الجميل يعتبر تحفة فنية رائعة. بالتوفيق عزيزي

My two cents. I've never tried Hakko, but i tried weller, cheap chinese stations and Metcal MX. Previous to Metcal, the soldering process was a pain, difficult to melt the solder or making some particular joint, messing a LOT with tips and flux, not counting the high risk of ruining the board or the components. Now, the process is REALLY enjoyable. I know Metcal is very expensive. But Hakko is not cheap. Just to put it into your mind when you are thinking about it. If you decide to stay with Hakko for whatever reason, i will not blame you. Footnote: as i viewed the video, i saw that you were talking about the Metcal stations, and you believe that you have to be limited by the power put into the tip, or the temperature. But actually this is not the case, although you can be fooled by that. The power of the Metcal irons is less than 70w (not sure, i think 30). This is because they can put a HUGE amount of heat in the tip. Even at the same temperature. In other stations, you have to compensate for the insufficient amount of heat with temperature, not the case with Metcal. It makes sense if you think about it. With an enormous amount of heat mass, you don't care about the temperature too much. Cristiano IZ4HDM.

As for your comment on the solder: I recommend taking the *thickest* solder that fits the job at hand comfortably. Reason: economy and speed, but even more because thicker solder has more flux content. Reserve the thinnest stuff for SMD.

You can tell from the serial number plate if it came from Germany. If indeed Germany, it came from Böblingen, in the Stuttgart area. HP are still there, albeit they are of courss now the computer outfit. Not sure if Keysight are still there though.

Jbc has sometimes quite informative videos, I found this one helpful for through hole; kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIHdZGqXo8RqpMksi=gBH7ZAldyJJto7i6

My fav function on this instrument is the burst mode, super cool.

Nice work so far! Be sure to check A13 C1 and C2, on my unit these were 20 volt rated tantalums on a 20 volt rail. C1 had shorted and took out Q3. Also, I found this unit drifted significantly during alignment - I fabricated an "alignment cover" from scrap plexiglass with holes to access the adjustments. I replaced the NiCads with NiMH batteries and they seem to work fine. I also did the LED mod to my unit. Regards, David

why not just glue that connector together? Maybe put a ziptie around it - the plastic might be brittle at this point and break again

i would love to get my hands on that

show the 585

Your absurd frightener about getting a tiny zap from 110VAC that is like getting a nuclear bomb wiping out your family because you can feck up a minor repair instantly turned me off.

I suggest NiMH batteries to replace the original, I think that is what I used on the 8165 I did videos fixing a a few years ago, it may have been lithium thionyl instead, don’t remember.

Grain of Wheat Bulbs make sense, since white LED's didn't exist at the time the 8156A was built. Nice work. Also, look forward to the battery resolution video. I have an 8156A also in need of new batteries.

Nice unit..hope it's not a basket case like me.

I know the pain, sometimes i wonder if a DIY tool with some sort of steppermotor would be nice :D

Love these Wien Bridge Oscillators, I have made a 1Khz fixed version made with an op amp and a 12v bulb with a low distortion better than 0.01 % I bet Dr Hewlett would like to have seen it, great video !

Nice equipment! I like to tap on the glass (or metal) envelope of the tubes when doing short tests. I've found quite a few bad tubes with intermittent shorts that way. Also, I like to shake metal tubes, and if the sound like a salt and pepper shaker, no since to test. Take care.

Good job.

Hasn't this been the first product of Mssrs Hewlett and Packard ?

Problematic triggering could be a sign of failure of the tunnel diode in the trigger circuit. The big advantage of the 585A over the 585 is the tunnel diode triggering, which makes the trigger circuit suitable for such a fast scope. The bad thing about tunnel diodes is that they will sometimes change characteristics on you. The 585A uses a 1N3848 or 152-0140-01 10 mA tunnel diode that isn't too hard to find. There may also be Russian substitutes.

I bought a well used 200CDR back in 1971 from Eli Heffron's in Cambridge. i got it cheap because the output was pulsating - clean but the output was not steady. I pulled off the case and found it had a pair of 6V6 output tubes, those were supposed to be 6F6. The Rp of those two types is very different so I picked up a pair of 6F6's and all was well. The 6S6 bulb was dibe and the unit had very low distortion. That oscillator has been on my bench for 50+ years and has never given me a lick of trouble - not bad for the $30 i paid for it way back then.

9:44 It looks like your oscillator is relaxing too quickly, so I guess it's a carbon composite that has "shrunken" a little. Edit 13:00 Ok, I was wrong. What an interesting failure mode!

The trigger symetry adj is quite confusing. Acording to manual it should be set to 0.7 div of SPACE between the neg. start and pos. stop. Not overlapping when + and - slope. In my opinion is like 0.35 from center for both. That gives a total of 0.7 space.This is about the adjustment. The overlap of 0.5 and space up to 2 div is what is the max and min allowed.