Is there anywhere that I can buy this VRM ready made? If not, then I will be building one; I have the GA-586ATE motherboard.

I picked up a DTK 486 at a thrift store recently and it came with a PAS16. Unfortunately the accompanying Sony CD-ROM doesn’t seem to work. This was a very good video to learn about this mysterious card I wasn’t familiar with.

but you forgot the most important thing: the solder fume extraction system

Thanks for the explanation!

Thank you! The 1.5A fuses are never blown black by 1.5 or even 2A currents. The transistor with 5V input could not send any high voltage spikes to the 5V CPU. There has been another cause to this.

Leaded solder please. Would like to know more.

Nice Christmas present! a new video from necroware

I remember the fun of using my gas soldering iron (with sparker in the tip of its case) which I had as a kid. As an adult, I'm amazed I still have eyebrows. I've no doubt a skilled engineer could have done great things with it. I'm sure an arsonist could have made even better use. I'm glad they've progressed past "deathtrap" and you can make good use of them.

Excelent video. Thanks a lot!

hey! thanks for the review of your tools! Great point for beginners - with a lot of practice one can do a skilful job with even a basic tools. BTW I bought a Fnirsi HS-02A and quite unhappy with it, very interesting to know your experience, maybe I do something wrong. Happy New Year! Всех благ вам в Новом Году!

Perfect job, small tip - for such small repairs I use old broken ide cables. 80 lines are smaller than trace on motherboards.

I hope you don'm mind if I choose this video (thanks for it, by the way) to ask if you'd try some cleaning techniques. You often happen having to deal with the aftermath of battery leakage or simply very dirty old boards and you use steel tweezers to scrape the oxidation off traces and pads. You do an excellent job of it but I'm always worried😟 about the steel scratching or ripping off the copper. For similar work (not on copper but when I have to scrape stubborn dirt from surfaces I don't want to scratch) I use simple "blades" or tips I craft myself off plastic (usually from old CD, made of polycarbonate, or CD cases, made of polystyrene). Such plastic is quite hard but definitely safe to use on copper. Another trick I'd like you try is a water flosser for removing dirt from crannies and recesses. Not sure it's effective against oxidation but it helped me with spots hard to reach with a toothbrush. It's like using a tiny jet washer!

Unfortunately leaded solder is getting harder to come by, especially in the large Germany-based stores like Conrad or Reichelt. Here in The Netherlands it's a bit easier fortunately. Elektramat still sells Stannol HS-10 and they can also ship within the EU. There might be others but most don't seem to ship abroad.

I definitely want to see a video about different solder (leaded and lead-free). I had so many issues with lead-free solder, that when I switched to leaded solder, my soldering improved because of it.

ENGINEER SS-02 Desoldering pump is one of the best purchases i've made. Its single hand operable and comes with a short length of sacrificial silicon tube to improve suction further. Flux laden desoldering wick is good to have to clear those pads too. Flux makes so much difference to both soldering and desoldering.

Another interesting video. I like the ratchet solder paste dispenser. A tip for the hand pump. I went online and bought a length of silicon tubing that was about the same diameter as the tip of the hand pump. Stick a bit over the end of the hand pump tip, then cut off at an angle about a cm from the end of the hand pump. It's heat resistant so you can literally stick it over the soldering iron while it's on the joint, then suction the solder out. It cost me about 2 euro and I got about a meter of it. All my hand pumps now have been modded like that.

I normally use decent quality solders like Kester, SRA, Weller, MG Chemicals and of course Australian brand, AIM. Decent quality solders helps a lot in my case - Chinese solder is okay, not bad, not great. I also use cheap smart soldering iron like TS100 and Pinecil, so I can hand solder the SMD chips in without burning them with too much heat for too long - I really should find soldering tip that's suitable for QFP and SOIC chips. Also, for more complicated work like BGA chip replacement, I recommend to get heat table and hot air soldering station, it would make it easier to replace the chipsets if they took a hit. And yes, I 100% recommend desoldering pump iron, makes it massively easier to repair ancient computers and consoles that were of 70s and 80s vintage, long before they switched completely over to SMD parts.

Desoldering pump sucks, in a bad way. Imo the worst way to do desoldering.

As for good leaded solder, I'd recommend Cynel Sn60Pb40 from Poland. It works like a charm and is relatively cheap.

Hi, nice video as usual. Do you use a smoke extractor? I have several soldiers, a 35yo Elto 25W, a TS100 and a Lidl station for heavy but less precision tasks. Also have a cheap portable dissolder pump that makes easy to remove old joints.

Guten Tag Necro, best way with soldering is trying different tool learn them and choose which are the best for you. I personally avoid cheap options proper rework station is what people use on regular basis. Looking forward to your next 3dfx repair videos. Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄

Thank you for sharing this vidoes...

Edsyn DS 017 desoldering pump, highly recommended.

Finally!! 🎇🎆🎇🎆🎆🎇🎆 🎄

Aliexpress advertises 60/40 leaded solder for sale. You should of course always be skeptical, but it might be worth a try.

Thank you, this is really useful! 😇

Thank you for sharing your tools 😊

Leaded solder is so hard to come by in germany! Ive bought up quiet some on Ebay kleinanzeigen, because it only gets more expensive there and thats basicly the only way to get leaded solder!

Ah, the great time for "advertisment"... I have some cheap soldering station and using it few times a year. No need for some overpriced junk. Thank you very much.

These types of soldering irons supplied in these cheap kits are usually garbage for the reason that as a rule there is no real temperature control there, with the dial marked with fake temperatures just controlling an equivalent of a lightbulb dimmer with no temperature feedback from the heater. So the temperature is never consistent, it's always too high when the iron is off the metal and too low when the iron is on the metal. I suggest avoiding these at all cost. There's any number of ceramic heater based stations which perform really well. I have a station from the early 2000s and it only takes a minute or two to get up to temp, in spite of being just 48W of power, and succeeds perfectly fine at soldering heavy connections, because it has proper active control and also the tips are actually extremely well made. Yes it's microcontroller based but it's very simple hysteresis control, similar to opamp based dial controller circuits, no PID unlike nice modern units, but it does mean that until the iron has reached temperature, it's pumping it at full power, unlike triac based fake-temperature ones. Good stations of this kind are very inexpensive but these days T12 stations can cost similar - you have higher tip costs with T12 but also not enough to matter for hobby use. Favourite tip: 2.5mm-3mm chisel tip. But you can also do well with hoof tip or knife tip. As to desoldering pump, there are much better ones now with shorter stroke, a little wider, and they come with silicone tip. The original is Engineer SS02 from Japan but there are cheap clones from China which work well. These "titanium" tweezers are fake titanium. I have them too, but i keep using steel ones where the branding has long come off.

I'm a big fan of BMJ solder, a bit pricey but works amazingly

Yes, this was really interesting and I am sure very useful to beginners getting into the hobby. Maybe yo can do a "must haves" of spare parts? Maybe include where you buy them from, which supplier is reliable etc.

у финси нет заземления на жало - унесет с собой чип. У меня вопрос - вы использовали антиоксидер - чтобы контакты оживить - что это было?

Thanks for the gear info, been wondering what some of my fav retro electronics repair youtubers use.

Hey! nice video! I always like to look at what people use cause i'm pretty good but it's always an opportunity to learn something. for the soldering iron all i can say is something that can be setup and the best is if it's temperature controlled. here i use a kinda low cost Chinese soldering station with is combined with a heat gun the model is 852D+ (it not even have a brand XD) the only problem is the mains transformer died after a lot of abuse so i replaced it and the pots also are garbage quality so they also been replaced by higher quality. and, i have a TS80 this is a game changer cause it works on USB-C and with a power bank of 10 000ma will last for an hour at least! (need Qualcomm QuickCharge so it's not the cheapest but...) so for €80 the soldering iron and about €90 the power bank (yeah in that time the power bank was really expensive it's like 6 year ago) well, i have all portable can con work on my car if the electricity there is not happy! this is not cheap but trust me that TS80 soldering iron is a really impressive device it's tiny and can still do a lot. the good old soldering iron that have no control no nothing actually on my exp is a big problem if you have a low power one like 25 or 30watts it's okish but if it's more it's going to heat really quick and way too much after 2 joint you are on overheating mode and will destroy PCBs and component... my old 25 watts JBC (about 30 year old) was ok for a really long time and still can do a lot but since i have the TS80 it's more a souvenir than anything.

just wondered when the next video will be here a few minutes ago 😂

can the bios patcher be used to overclock on older locked motherboards?

440bx and 440lx are mythical, not asus...

So the owner got the ultimate NERD RAGE and bit a piece of the motherboard?

Lucky you got fan with ball bearings, soaking them in water for 15 minutes and not dissassembling those shields of theirs to remove moisture and old grease did not help in prolonged time, better would be to replace them

good work !

Building my own AGP XP Retro with a D945 and a HD3650

You should add that Jurassic Park game to your compact flash card. I had one of these back in the 90s growing up and I am not surprised you found a manufacturers defect that they never resolved.

What an awesome talent you have and that you worked hard for

If you still have this around somewhere, there is now a reverse engineered cache module on github

I have a couple SP97-V boards. I put in PowerLeap K^2-400's back in the day. Those things caps went long ago. Great boards.

Aint no way he's putting electronic components in water

Lemme guess, you like Asus boards 😏

Why is KZbin digging these up for me, and why, with three speed jumpers, are only 4 combinations used, are there any interesting undocumented ones? One possible interpretation is that 1-2 and 3-4 are a 2 bit code for speed, while 5-6 only being open for 50 may be some extra wait state - in which case 5-6 open on any other would be the same clock but a lower performance, Maybe it's ISA divide? /4 would run 6.25, 8.25, 10 and maybe /5 for a fast 10 at 50MHz?

Primary master: None Secondary Master: None Winning.