Thank you, I will be pulling the heat shield off my 797 today👍

Maybe it was the corrosion doing it to cause that does make a bad connection i wish mine was just a smashed wire but mine has something to do with the fuses and relays thats why i put in all the same amp reset fuses so it wont burn them out anymore And mines needing another left side valve cover gasket again it might almost be time for a new head gasket on it to its a big twin cylinder Kohler command before i do any of that i need to sort out why when im cutting with it the clutch shuts off and then now Its not wanting to stay idling it'll start then shut right off could be a bad coil i guess But the last owner replaced the flywheel with a new one it didn't need and i think he mashed the stator somehow because that mower never did charge the battery all the connections from the flywheel and out are clean the ground connections are clean only thing I've not checked is the stator But it shutting off right after starting it is a new problem it had this month i think that problem is a bad coil because that guy replaced all stuff it didn't need and what it did need he didn't replace on it he also left the valve cover loose

Mines clutch is new and works

Thats like what my big one does so i just don't use the damn thing

You say zero complaints

How do you remove the drawer from the rails to mount it to the freestanding mount?

Have a 2018 mule sx I go about any where I want to

Have ever done more on this project?

But did you actually use a torque wrench homie...... 75-80 ft lbs factory pattern +loctite. After 50 miles re torque....

What motor oil does it use?

There is a torque sequence after you run the tire a few miles. Would put some anti seize in-between the hub and billet.

What paint did you use?

Re torq after a short first drive never had issues

man no....

So I never saw how you got the PTO seal out or how you got the new one in? Im sorry that you cut your finger.

Yes but the belt exhaust is pretty low

Do you leave them off or just clean it and put it back?

You shouldn’t need Loctite if they are well made and well torqued lugs. I’ve never seen Loctite on any factory lug nuts have you?

What is the Wix filter number? Thanks.

Dude , you forgot to put plumbers tape

Nice but loud 📢🔊

Thanks for the info. Did you tie cables/wires back ? I believe there are more across the left head. I will pull my shrouds. The Deere service shop gives me crap about not having the pulley covers installed. But all they do is collect grass. As one guy mentioned below. I always let any engine I own idle down. Not sure that is going to solve an insulated head but good practice.

Thank you!

Wheel adaptors need proper clamping force. The studs are too short. The lug nut never had enough thread engagement and simply using more high strength Red thread locker is wrong. It sets hard in the absence of air which means you need longer wheel studs, then get rid of the capped lug nut so the stud shows. It should come all the way thru the lug nut. Then torque them in star pattern to aluminum wheel specs which is usually higher that steel. If you have proper thread engagement and torque them they will not come loose. Putting Red thread locker on means you will need an oxygen / acetylene torch to head each one up to service the rotor, pads, caliper and axle. Did you open the box and burn the instructions? You get exactly what you deserve, more future head aches. Where do the crazy ideas come from. ASE Master Tech since 78, auto tech since 1972 and GM instructor for 7 years. This is why you never showed the loose lug nuts. They are captured behind the wheel? Did you forget to put them on? Are the wheel studs broken or just the threads messed up a little from ridding on them. Come on, tell the rest of the story. This auto repair and not a magic show.

100% user fail like others have said you didn't get them torqued correctly. I've used wheel adapters and spacers several times and even the cheapest ones and they've never came loose

I feel like ours makes a lot of rattling noise that seems to be tied to rpms, and sounds like it is coming from the back muffler area.

it's not the engine or the grass as much as it is the rear shield, this same engine is used in other brands af zero turns and they don't have the head issue nearly as bad if at all compared to the 757/737, they also changed the frame when they introduced the roll bar and blocked off all the air holes from under the seat plus they added panels around the blower housing, the issue is the rear shield acts as a baffle redirecting the hot air back into the engine area causing the over heating and cylinder head failure, I know this because i am a john deere tech and have repaired hundreds of these mowers for this issue, the fix is to remove the shield and let the mower idle and cool off for at least five minutes after use before shutting it off, also if there is any oil leaking from the engine and i mean any it needs to be addressed immediately, they mostly leak from the breather cover and front crankshaft seal behind the flywheel, the oil migrates up the front of the engine into the cooling air streem and attracts debris clogging the cooling fins causing over heating. these mowers are in my opinion the best zero turn deere has ever made.

Lol. User error.

You also need to thoroughly clean the drum with a wire brush and brake cleaner prior to installing the spacers...

Thank you, I have the exact problem. I ordered 2 o-rings today for repairs.

Thank you so so much

NO tire shop or mechanic will EVER tell you to use loctite on lug nuts LOL ... Its ALWAYS anti-sieze.

You install wrong lug nuts for it and wrong torch lbs possibly dirty rotors. You cause it for sure

I’ve heard this version of the mule is good in the mud someone told me this version of the mule can’t do serious off roading obviously they were wrong that thing is a beast now I really want an sx xc le it’s one nice machine

Does the sx xc le do really good in mud

Surface of rotors need work

You need extended thread lugs that are made for wheel spacers looks like your threads only have like half thread engagement

I will advise to torque lug nuts to OEM specifications. Based on my data 95 lb ft. Make certain the adapters are hub centric to your vehicle and wheel. Do not use any Loctite on the threads keep them clean and dry during the installation. Re-torque all lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving and repeat every 2-3,000 miles.

2006 757 had the same leak, one JD dealer told me I needed a new engine. Another JD dealer took me in his office, showed me how to take the oil cooler off and replace the o ring for $2. I think the bolt is supposed to be torqued to 33 pounds... no leaks for over a year now. Great video, thanks

Thank you. Helpful.

Clean both surfaces before installation as well...

You didn't install that one properly

I've been running wheel spacers close to two years and I never had one fail.... You mentioned you use a little bit of Loctite... That was your problem you have to use more than a little just to let you know... yeah they give you a little bit when you buy them... I would not go to a part store to buy it too expensive.... Harbor Freight sells their version of it which is the same thing for $2.86 out the door... You will find out that you put more on there you'll never have a problem again.... Good thing you caught it when you did...

Gel thread lock doesn't work.

Always buy "hubcentric" spacers as they're much better/safer. Ensure the nuts are the correct ones for the car (tapered/rounded/flat). Clean everything well before installation. Copper grease can be used to stop the spacer from galvanicly sticking to the hub. Ensure the nuts go onto the existing studs far enough (at least the length of the nut). Tighten in a star shape then retighten/torque again when the tyre is on the ground. Redo them all again after 500miles as some movement can occur ;)

I like the glue stick version of the loctite, just rotate a little out and run it over the bolts, no mess or fuss. I just put mine on with one strip on top of the lugs from end to end, when the nut goes on it will distribute it over the rest of the threads. I only used blue loctite, did 100ft lbs on rear, but switched it to 120ft lbs on the front. Tomorrow I’m checking them to see if they loosened during some driving tonight and I’ll up the rear to 120ft lbs, at least with blue loctite I can actually re-torque them when it recommends to, with red those things are on there and no way you are torquing it again not without heat.

Wish I could put that 9n my mule pro fxt

Look like you forgot to tighten the one

These Kawasaki engines are notorious for oil leaks. Always check the crankcase breather while you’re working on it. You can remove the front shroud, the flywheel, and the intake so that you can look at the crankcase breather.

That's not a grade that's a wall. ha