yea sorry man, 2 more kids and the need to focus on my main business has made me unable to make any videos in a while. I miss the hell out of it though. If you need any help with anything feel free to comment or email me at [email protected] and i'd be happy to help in any way I can.

wheel rotation is not 100% needed but it surely makes it easier. When I first began making baits I did not have a wheel either. So I just had to flip the baits every 5-15 minutes until the epoxy is set up enough and stopped running. id say an hour or so. Its kinda a pain but its definitely doable. I made 100 or so baits that way. The wheel is relatively cheap and easy to build as well. $70 motor and 30 bucks of lumber and you are good to go.

I use cedar on all other baits. Cedar is way to buoyant for gliders if you are looking for a glider that will work the same everytime and not require half of the bait to be lead.

lol thanks bud.

both. But in my opinion you can accomplish everything needed with the 0.5. i use it for base coats as well as fine detains. really you can accomplish both with both needles. more of a preference. Id say try them both out and see whats more comfortable for your style of painting.

either one is fine. I usually use high, just make sure to keep it moving quickly. You want to pop any bubbles. not thin the epoxy out so much that its running off before you can get it to the drying rack.

I’ve never tried it, you probably could if u thinned it enough. But it would gum up ur brush for sure

@@DJCustomBaits what I meant is the water based paint like the latex paint which has almost the same ingredients as acrylic paint. So is it possible to use latext paint for airbrushing when it is thinned to the right consistency because it is more cheaper than the acrylic. Thank you.

@@93556108 oh yes they'll work for sure. but wont spray as nicely and consistent. I don't think you'll enjoy painting with those to be honest. but yes they will "work"

@@DJCustomBaits thank you for sharing your thoughts. FYI I am a Chinese, residing in Malaysia. God Bless.

He's too busy storming the capitol to make baits anymore (he's super maga)

Thanks man! Really appreciate the kind words! I have put bait making on pause for 2 years now so I don’t have anything for sale. But to answer your question yes you can. It works perfectly fine for lures. Amazing clear cast which I use, is also used for table top pours often.

@DJCustomBaits thanks for the reply. I can't stop looking and watching videos of these lures. I just want all of them to hang up in my house. Real works of art. Hope all is well, take care.

Once you put the 1st coat on and let it sit for an hour, do you mix a new batch of epoxy or use the same batch from the 1st coat?

I had a bad experience with the 105. but i do appreciate your input. I am not a pro, simply sharing my opinion. have a good one brotha.

Read the epoxy you are using. some are non-toxic. others are not. I personally never did, but that doesn't mean I shouldn't have lol

Hey man, it depends what kind of baits you are painting. For light bass baits i would say to use something like KBS or aluminite UV clear coat. Because an epoxy would add to much weight to such light baits. If you are painting baits with some weight to them (anything over 1.5-2 OZ I'd say) I personally would use Allumilte amazing clear cast. Epoxy is going to last longer than the others, but adds more weight. so for light baits it can throw off the action of the bait. best epoxy I personally found. I have a video where i show how to epoxy baits if you needed any help with that. Hope this helps!

@@DJCustomBaits thanks my dude im a big bass fisherman so im gonna be making thousands of bass lures out of wood and painting plastic molds of them and now im starting soft plastics to its all fun

I sealed them with sanding sealer. ( I will link it at the end of this comment) I would pour the sanding sealer into a larger container and let the baits soak for a minute or less. then hand them to dry. then lightly sand the dried sealed baits before doing the base coats of epoxy. once the base coats of epoxy is done and dry scuff the baits with scotch brite. clean with Windex or what ever works. Paint and do your finish coats of epoxy and you are good to go. The sealing coat is simply to prevent any water absorption from happening in the wood in the case the epoxy gets cracked or through the eyelets. Hope this helps! DJ www.amazon.com/Minwax-657000000-Water-Based-Sanding-Sealer/dp/B004Y6TTKI/ref=asc_df_B004Y6TTKI?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814222102136&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413749812196&th=1

@@DJCustomBaits does the sanding sealer soak into the wood like thin super glue does? Like to penetrate the wood and seal and make the bait hard?

@@vectorponder yes it soaks in much better than a superglue. and makes its sealed to outside moisture. not exactly harder. thats what the base coat of epoxy are for.

@@DJCustomBaits thank you! I’m trying to make some GT poppers and everyone uses different stuff! I can’t wait to try this sanding sealer out.

currently i run the tranx 400 with chaos tackle extra heavy rods. rod reel in this video was a 13 fishing reel & a bass pro heavy muskie rod.

@DJCustomBaits thanks for the fast response... rainy day at work so I'll probably knock out most if your videos today lol

Thanks for watching brotha! If there’s anything I can’t help with just drop a comment !

Thank for watching brotha. Glad I could help

Lol 1st of all never claimed to be a Professional Air brusher. secondly as I clearly stated "these are my opinions and my opinions only" but thanks for the view dickfor

Welllll Samuel Since you're a Professional... Show us YOUR Video on this subject!!! OR... are you just Rude and Mean by post this "Do not listen to this "professional". If you don't like this video... which I think is GREAT... Then move on... no need to be RUDE

Thanks man. Glad it helped. Epoxy is one of the most tedious processes to perfect when making baits that’s for sure.

paint pens work the best for me . u can also use sharpies but they bleed some times when applying epoxy. best best is a paint pen like the one ill link here , then once u sign ur name (after paint and before finish coats of epoxy) hit it with a heat gun for a second to dry the signature. Hope this helps! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003W0XT7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1

my heat gun is simply on or off. the temp is not extremely important. keeping the heat gun moving and not hitting a single spot for more then a second at a time or so is the most important part. you wanna thin the epoxy and pop the bubbles.but not burn it

You are not laying thick enough coats then, would be my guess... I’m sorry if ya disagree. But 2 coats of properly done alumillite can take a 45” muskie. And I don’t mean that to be disrespectful, I have 0 ties to them or any company . I’m simply speaking from experience and what I’ve seen. But by all means my friend use what works best for you. I’m not the worlds best bait builder and everyone has things that work for them. Also environment can hinder outcomes of epoxy . My environment IE humidity , temp, so on could work well for this epoxy and yours could possibly not. Not gonna knock KBS, Iots of people love it. But I’ve personally never used another clear coat that works like Alumillite. And withstands what I’ve put my baits through. But again, use what works for u my dude. 🤙🤙

For example this video, this is a bait i simply epoxied to seal and test. No paint . Straight wood. Got eaten and barely had a scratch. I’m sure situations are diff. But as long as u seal your wood before you epoxy it I’ve always had good results. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppfQhYtsmrSfftU

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