Thanks for the comparison! the evo is warmer which is a personal preference thing (does one make you less tired or sleepier...I don't know). The evo seems to be more homogeneous. The other thing to notice is the far away sign seems less lit by the evo in low beam settings, so does a better job keeping the light down. I prefer the evo, just because I had ordered one yesterday I need to stop mulling over this and just get it and use it. One potential gimmick I appreciate of the evo, is being able to customize the power...I wonder how much extra time I get by lowering intensity to 10%), but do think the other light is very nice too.

I'd choose... a tripod for filming next time

I've had mixed luck with USB lights. An improvised low tech LED light with soldered in wires and an exterrnal battery pack in a water bottle holder might be better. You'll never be able to get an USB unit apart much less have it work afterwards. Make the terrible lowly low end Bontrager light great again!

Hi! I do not like lights (electronics in general) with built-in batteries, that can not be easily replaced. I used to have the Moon Meteor Pro lamp with 2x 3350mAh rechargeable 18650 type batteries, but those fitting the lamp are almost impossible to buy in Europe now. Also, the lamp itself was quite heavy and I was able to charge the batteries only inside the lamp. My current choice is the Fenix BC26R which has 1x5000 mAh replaceable chargeable 21700 type battery and the lamp is quite light, much smaller than the Moon or this Raptor. The spare batteries can be also charged directly via USB-C cable outside or within the lamp even during use. For the three nights during a 1200 km LRM, I had the lamp with the factory battery + 2 spare batteries and I came through without charging them.

“price range “ 10 times in the vid !!!!!! .. so what is this price range ???

Would not have guessed there would be such a drop off in intensity with time, that's quite shocking. Inspired of you to measure this. One of the main aspects that is useful to know but difficult to find/test is long term reliability of the light and mounting system. I guess you get a reasonable estimate from the build quality/feel and extent of the warranty the company offers for it.

Great review! I just wanted to say my Magicshine Evo 1700 arrived a few days ago, and I’ve been very impressed so far! I bought it after seeing it first during your review video. I really appreciate your videos and hope you can continue to flourish!

After 40 years of cycling rain hail and shine and compiling a graveyard of every light you can think of, l built my own. Maglight style long hard case torch, 2000 lumen, high low and strobe, which i never use, diffused single low and 'undiffused' high x 2. Accepts charge while in use also charges devices while in use. l gutted it and made my own compact lightweight casing (45 mm diameter x 100 mm long, includes battery) and remote on off push selector switch under bar tape by the lever. Runs on high capacity high grade lipo remote control hobby battery. l used the female end of a usb1 extension cable as the power in port instead of every other micro usb that fails, either breaking then not charging or letting water in. This means the only penetrations in the casing are the 2 cable diameters for the power in and out plugs well clamped and sealed with polyurethane windscreen sealant. I plan trying high quality 3.5 mm phone jacks for power connections and charging as they are a bit nicer and bullet proof, water tight and compact, but these usb 1 extension ports / plug ends have never failed, not even after days of being soaked. It's more effective than the headlights on my motorbikes. It has survived 3 years of daily riding in all weather, torrential rain etc. and many multi day rides. Shows no signs of failure. 7 hours on low 4.5 hours on high. l made 2 rear lights in a similar fashion, i like to remove the ever nagging question, ls my rear light working. These rear lights last for 3 days in the always on non flash mode. Again switches under the bar tape. This is great when you're absolutely spent and all you have to do is move your thumb. Next step is amber side marking lights and integrating front and rear lights running off central batteries in its own watertight housing mounted low down in the bb area with just the led's and control circuitry mounted up high. Not that they are heavy, its just a nice place to utilize knowing l can make them water tight. A central battery bank will provide option to increase run time by adding capacity and provide the next solution of providing separate power supply for other devices. I will end up with a wiring loom similar to a motorcycle but servicing the specific needs of long distance cycling and training. In Australia every second vehicle that does any kind of night driving has high intensity spot lights / light bars etc. that burn the fur off kangaroos at 1000 meters, so my light in comparison is a child's toy. I hit 8 kangaroos in one night driving in outback Queensland several years ago. If im in a built up area the high low function is sufficient also with the simple ease of manually adjusting the aim given the clamp is firm not gorilla tight. I will never buy another "bike light".

I wonder what kind of conditions manufacturer's put when sending units for review...in 2:50 one sees the evo 1700, begging for their beams and light levels to be compared. In one hand it makes sense to keep the video focused to one device, in which case if you had removed the other lamp, one would not even be asking (at least so quickly 😊) about it...on the other, there are so many options out there, that it is really nice to see the difference in real life. Lastly, on thing I would love to see on reviews, are tear downs...for example, here it seems easier to dissamble this lamp...if the batteries are easily accessible and/or replaceable by hobbiests, that would be a huge point for this lamp. Thanks for the review

I live in northern Europe and at the moment day length is only 6,5 hours 😅 That's why I've got a SON dynamo hub and a corresponding light. I think the German StVZO regulation is second to none in terms of shaped beam and avoiding blinding other road users. Thanks for the great review and especially verifying the runtime claims!

Love my aero bars. I have 40mm risers for comfort and they are a game changer on long distance. Comfortable enough to fall asleep on (not recommended, the bio feedback is really abrupt... note, no riders or bikes were harmed in the learning of this fact) and my preferred riding position. I reckon a conservative 10% performance gain.

I ride my Orca since April 2024, very happy with it, 60km per week in average, flat roads in Brittany, I am estimating I am 3 to 5km/h faster than with my regular bike. Both are heavy touring bikes and I always carry stuff with me. I have a front fork saddle carrier mounted under the seat for 2 paniers. I usually take only one except when going to the supermarket. I also have a North American milk crate attached to the rear rack. Bike weight is not an issue for me. My body is light enough to compensate for the weight. I live in rural Finistere.

Do you do any MTB? Think this would be bright enough for pitch black forest? Running full strength highbeam will not be an issue, as night rides are 1 hour max.

Did you consider the RN1500? Upsides relative to the EVO1700 seem to be, bigger battery (5000mah using a 21700), can be mounted on a helmet and the fact that you can use it as a powerbank to charge other things. As an adventurer cyclist and baby-randonneur, I really like having things that can play double-duty and also some built-in redundancy across devices. Downsides: 20g heavier, less of an extreme aspherical (cutoff) beam pattern and specific to me, not really made to be mounted upside down.

No one ever seems to care about the WEIGHT of wider tires. What happened to every micro-gram counts?

Its interesting how moto gp also has balloon tires that squirm inder acceleration also being light and fast!

This clown starts off the questions with are wider tires more comfortable then answers are wider tires faster.

@overbikedrandonneuring Hi! Great review, thank you! You mentioned in the video, that you plan to make a comparison video between the Redshift Shockstop and the Vecnum freeQENCE, but I can't find it here. Is there any chance you will publish it any time soon? If not, would you please share your thoughts on what are the pros and cons of each and if shich would fit better to different types of rides? Also, I was wondering if there are any benefits of a longer Vecnum stem 120mm compared to a shorten one 90mm. Thank you!

Love the pattern, I have a pair of black bibs shorts and like them also a starlight jersey both are great. A pair of cargo pockets on the ski suit bibs would be cool I bet starlight could do that as well

Will not get one now but will keep this in mind for when i reach this stage. The design logic and color and pattern decision are exactly the ones I would take. Thank you for the service!

If this came in long sleeve, I’d buy one immediately

Part of the fun of wearing a skinsuit is to go faster so you can get home sooner to frighten the neighbors.

Wow, I absolutely love the idea. You're my go-to resource for randoneurring stuff and so I strongly value your endorsements, but sorry to say I won't be buying one for Christmas. The design itself is not really my cup of tea. I would have preferred something entirely based on your channel logo, for example. Imagine that logo full-sized on your back against the same sky blue background colour, that would be so cool. This nerdy little corner of the cycling world is right where I feel at home so I would have no problem wearing something that really sells OBR :) Also, I don't understand why the chamois is only medium thickness. Wouldn't a thicker chamois be better for randonneuring? Thanks nonetheless. Its a shame you don't get a kickback from it, had this custom suit fit my wishes I would have definitely preferred that you got some dough out of it to support future testing videos etc!

Great discussion! I happened to get myself a 2x10 cyclocross bike, originally for commuting and short/mid distance road cycling. It seems to me my use case overlapped with randonneur builds, because I seem to have gravitated to a very similar configuration. To the initial build I added: - Fenders. - A rack with a top bag rather than panniers. - Swapped the chainrings and cassette to the GRX 2x10 drivetrain (kept the Tiagra shifters). - Other things like puncture resistant tires and SPD pedals. My approach was thus because I wanted to have one bike for both daily use and longer weekend rides. Also, I live in Yorkshire, which begged for lower gearing when going up the hills, and didn't have so much ego that I wanted to stay with road racing gears lol.

It needed to be made, so we made it! Thanks again to Starlight making it a reality and offering such a flexible program like Team 365. And thanks to the 1970's coffee cup designer that inspired this look.

12:03 In a Swiss Side's calculator recommendations are 5.5+ bar setup. But this is 80+ psi, and this is huge for a long course. nope?

Is there a power switch on the light itself??, just bought one, Instructions are of little use and the remote doesn't turn it on

Hoop pressure, how much drop till cornering tyre roll becomes dangerous? oldmrmegadrive2. blogspot. com

That ass phone adapter looks more legit than it has any right to... Jokes aside, great video, as always

I am old and could care less about wide tires. I think 2 inch max width is plenty for any bicycle use. Besides being heavier with greater rotational inertia and rolling resistance, fat tires IMO get flat more often as well. The only suspension one needs for road use is maybe a cantilever armature for the seat which itself is sprung. The only reason anyone would need 3" or 4 " tires is to ride on sand or snow. I personally avoid off road riding in the first place, so for me fat tires are completely pointless. I could imagine maybe 2" for e-bikes since they have a built-in heavier load, but much of the excess weight on those bikes is also unnecessary, as they use insanely heavy steel multi-tubed and frankly decorative fabrications.

interesting. Looking forward to you telling us what tyre width and pressure you choose for your bike(s) and i will be very happy to imitate

13:06 man 9s is black and white... my poor 6 speed frankenstain of a bike is still alive eh. Just joking, I live in a floodplain, but if I ever need to climb any hill, I'd probablly change the bike (its 15kg don't help either)

You are fogetting that heavier riders can't run smaller tires at lower pressure, due to pinch flat risks

love how thorough you were with the data! a bit hard to follow at times with everything going on lol

Narrow tires require high pressures to avoid pinch flats when using tubes. There is really no way around that. When using tubeless setup, then you can start exploring lower pressures. This was not an option in the past.

I M cycling for 55 years mow and still doing 250 km/week. Mainly on my 80s steel bikes. I always buy the cheapest 700 x 25 at the max pressure and happy. And i dont mind of im fast or slow, im outside, smell the nature and hear the birds and im happy. And i have average 2 punctures/year what tells me its tome to replace the tyres

I've had great comfort on 25mm (27mm when measured) tires at lower pressures but have issues with pinchflats when I get too excited and rough with my bike. I've now ridden 23, 25, 32, 38, 42 and 50mm tires and so far 32-38 seems like a good sweet spot for me, I can get enough tire drop for good comfort without risking pinchflats on those. 42 and bigger at low pressures felt slow and a bit wallowy in corners, and at higher pressures felt very bouncy, where they would bounce over bumps rather than absorb them. I do have to add the 42 and 50mm tires had a slightly heavier build than the skinnier ones which will undoubtedly have a negative effect on how they feel.

I believe the entire reason there was/is a push for wider tires is because the industry was trying to solve the tubeless setup punctures and getting the sealant to work as well as it does for mtb. The industry makes more money selling tubeless technology than simply using an inner tube. I prefer a narrower tire for road use because I am old school in my belief that a road bike simply must have skinny tires. I've tried 28mm tires on my road bike and for me it doesn't feel like a road bike anymore. I'm sticking to the 26mm tires and rims that are 19mm to 21mm internal and TPU tubes, this offers me the feel I am happy with no matter how much it beats me up.

Thanks for showing the comparison with the Lumintop flashlight. The Lumintop doesn't have the best light quality but it looks worlds better compared to the EVO. The color rendering is better and it looks more natural, while the EVO looks blue, low contrast, the edges have a green-yellow halo due to projector hosing and there's an ugly blue spot in the middle. Once you see it, you can't unsee it. The Lumintop also has a standard replaceable battery that you can change on the go while the EVO has who knows what and it's not replaceable. I really wanted the EVO, but the Lumintop looks like a better buy. Especially if you consider that you can use it as a handheld flashlight and the LED can be changed for a better one.

Please make tests with top end cotton tires in 25 mm, like Veloflex or Challenge, you will have at least 5-10% more comfort at same pressure compared to Schwalbe

Thanks for digging into this. As is usual with the Internet, the "Wider is faster and more comfortable" rule was over time stripped of all context and turned into a primitive mantra that people are just endlessly repeating in every discussion... Funny thing is that actually SILCA THEMSELVES have an article on their blog where they are scientifically measuring and explaining why narrower tires at equal pressure are less harsh. Because what people forget about that "wider means lower RR" rule is that is says "provided pressure is equal". But then you don't get good comfort. Yes, offroad wider tires are more comfortable AND faster when you lower pressures but as the surface gets better and better the situation changes and the understanding of this seems to be missing from the discussion these days. Everyone is just blabbering "fit the widest your frame can handle" ad nauseam... I recently put 36mm Strada Biancas on one of my wheelsets and I'm constantly amazed at how supple, comfortable and fast these tires are in dry conditions. I'm a MTBiker converted to a gravelist, I've never ridden anything that narrow in my life. I was expecting to suffer but somehow on everything except loose chunkier gravel I feel better. I'm sure it's predominantly caused by the Challenge casing and not the width but still, bumps, holes and such just seem to "sting" less because the small tire is "done with them" sooner if you know what I mean... also I like the agility of the narrow tire and the fact that line choice is easier.

Very impressive analysis. Thank you.

I purchased this light based on your recommendation. I am very impressed by its performance. I am not impressed by the fact that to use the phone app to control it, you have to give them your email address and create an account on their system. The only reason I can see that the app needs my email address to control the light is to sell my email address and any other data they can glean to marketers. Were this a free product, I could see the justification; they need to make money somehow. But we paid money for the product; therefore, we shouldn't be the product. In your review of the product, you should have highlighted this potential abuse of their customers' privacy. The Apple Store states that the company will use identifiers to track you and link your contact information to you. The app privacy policy links to their main website home page. The privacy policy on their website is a nightmare. It is obviously a boilerplate they picked up from somewhere and needs to be completed. In short, while the product may be good, I wouldn't trust the company itself.

Norcal Cycling did a video a little while back comparing just the efficiency of different tire widths, although it's not clear whether tires were inflated to their most efficient pressure in each width. Found that 32 mm was the most efficient.

Yep I’m still on 23c on the front and 25c on the rear 😊

Hello. I am a cyclist as well as a CEO of WHEELLAB, Korea. Good job for covering the real details of the tires. I think you can simply measure the tire drop by a special depth measure tool. We have a digita hub measure tool of 'wheel fanatyk' and I think it can work.

Just transitioned to 32mm tires from 28mm for my winter riding. Really comfortable and no noticeable speed loss

Your question is stupid

I guess I’m old school I ride 28s 100 psi I tried 32s at 70 like riding in sand 😂

Thank you for the informative video. I have one request though. Please include tyre pressures in Bar next time along with PSI. I know this may sound nitpicky, but i really have trouble understanding Imperial units of measurement, outside of the metric system. Otherwise keep up the great work, i love how you back up your content with measured data and still make it easy to understand for most!