Unless video. Thanks for not showing how the locks came out. Not showing the gap to get your hand in the back. Not showing what the lock looks like before you put it in. Thanks for, well, nothing.

Just did this repair today by replacing the whole actuator assembly. I used a multi tool to cut through the plastic near the screws and got the old actuator assembly off. I then used the multitool to cut through the screws (the heads fell off into the door). I then replaced by running a zip tie to secure the new actuator. Piece of cake.

After watching all these repair videos I'm convinced I should just allow my children to keep crawling in and out through the sunroof. Remember, wherever there's hills there's always a Billy.

I think I would have put the wing nut facing the inside of the van where possible then coated them liberally with nail polish to keep them secure.

I used a soldering iron on the inside panel side of the lock-tight screw's ( 4-5 min) then slowly backed out the closest screw to reach....I chose to re heat the same screw after only 1 completed turn, which worked out very well. I didn't remove it fully before I heated the next screw and repeated the process. (except I removed the further one completely then was able to finish removing the first one by hand. Even Though I took my time (didn't take a whole lot with this technique) I still had to replace them because I would have stripped them while re-using them. I was prepared with the replacement screws ( i forget which size metric machine screw)

Great idea! I fixed it once and it's not working again. This time, I will be using your method to secure this bastard

Yes praise God for no Loctite I stripped the screw and was unable to get it out Also thank God for ace hardware having the exact same screws that hold in the part.

UPDATED I finally figured it out! In my case, it was a gas line that lost it's support bracket where it turned down toward the under part of the truck. There was a seam in the body of the truck with a ridge that stuck out, and the metal gas line was vibrating against it constantly. Eventually wearing it out and leaking fuel. Thats actually how I found it. I smelled gas and was able to quickly pinpoint that spot and see where it was rubbing against the body. It was always impossible to find the vibrating since it only did it while the truck was running down the road. I replaced the line and bent it away from the body, and for good measure I affixed a garden hose around the pipe incase something wanted to rub against it again in the future. :) hope this helps someone else!

both side cables from dealer cost me $ 900 nine hundred 😩😵 the part is in the middle of the Ocean . Go brandon 😡😠😫

Hello Would you please tell me how much it cost u that nightmare & where did u order it . Thanks Xmas21🎉✟✟✟󾓦 H N Year 22 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉 USA

Thank you!!! I have replaced the entire actuator assembly in both my doors now and I used your wing nut trick on 3 of the 4 bolts.

You are the man!! Just fixed mine too!!!

How many bolts did you take out?

my two cents: before removing the bolts, it's work trying to heat the bolts wth a hairdryer or a heat gun, sometimes (not all the times) the bolt looses enough that you dont have to tear apart the actuator. Careful not to burn the actuator if using a heat gun.

HELP! I replaced the motor in the actuator from a motor from digikey.. now the actuator arm moves when activated to open the door, but the arm doesn't complete the reverse action to get it back to default position.. without the arm back in default position, the door doesn't fully lock open or entirely shut closed... Any thoughts?

Did you buy the motor only or the complete actuator? Do you have a part#?

Did you figure out the problem? I’m having the same issue.

I have never seen a video where you did not have to lower the window....wow

What type of tool did you use to take the bolts out that fit through the small crack?

thats your fuel injectors pulsing, my 1995 does the exact same thing.

Finally solved mine! 1994 Suburban was making the exact same noise for years. I found a spot where the metal fuel line running between the throttle body and the fuel filter was hitting against the back fire wall. I wedged a piece of rubber hose around the metal fuel line and the noise stopped. Apparently the vibration from the injector cycling was being transmitted through the fuel line and being amplified at the spot where it rubbed up against the fire wall.

on mine it was a bad injector the vibration was going down the fuel lines that are right under the driver side hitting the frame and making that noise

hey man i figured out what that noise is

Nothing yet. Still happening and still have no idea.

have you figured out what it is mine is doing the same thing