Ok, first of all, the difference between lobe separation and intake centerline is NOT the ground in advance. Lobe separation is just the degrees of separation between the intake and exhaust lobe centerlines, it has nothing to do with advance or retard of the cam grind. The 106 degree intake centerline is the reference that the rest of the cam card specs were taken at. Meaning, that when installed at 106, the IVO, IVC, EVO & EVC specs will match the cam card's given specs and the cam will operate as advertised, no matter what advance was ground into it at factory. If you want to shift the power band down, advance the cam, to shift it up, retard the cam. Intake lobe centerline should be the very first thing you check after setting TDC on your degree wheel because if that isn't set right, nothing else will read right either.

That is the correct way to find TDC, a dial indicator does not account for bearing clearance which is taken up by compression pressure !

To find TDC why not just bend the pointer?

Okay so question here cuz obviously I don't understand what I'm looking at, what is even the point of doing that the chain is attached to the gears and that's where it goes like it doesn't matter that you spin the engine and look at this degree that degree it doesn't matter ,at the end of the day the two marks got to line up Cam and crank and then the chain goes on so what are you trying to do put the tooth one tooth off I'm not understanding here?

,,,,,,,,,,,thank you for your time.....Your opening statements about LSA and centerline has put things into perspective relating to advance and or retard........

I GOT A 1990 K5 BLAZER 5.7 WITH ECU GOT ENGINE REBUILD GOT THE BLOCK BORED 30 OVER AND DID A FEW UP GRADES IM USING EX262H CAM IN IT WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD COVERTER TO USE I TOOK THE STOCK ONE OUT..AND GOT 2000 TO 2400 STALL .. IS THAT GOOD WITH THAT CAM

Confusing,

Love the video. Thanks

very nice sir! thank you

How do know how far to adjust the piston stop? So if you get both degrees once you spin the engine.. Then adjust the piston stop again, up or down so the piston stops either down further or up higher..will you still get the same numbers once you divide the two numbers?

can u upload the video with a verry good quality? soo we can see what was it written there clearly, btw its a helpfull video after all

I'd love to see a video for home bolters how to set the cam without a cam card

You didnt take into account the rocker ratio which would change your estimated valve lift after the lifter and pushrod you made. If you have 1.5 or 1.6 rocker ratio then the lift would be .009 or .010 depending on the rockers of course.

Best video I've seen so far describing how to degree a camshaft. Thank you.

I think this video lowered my IQ

Good job Sir thanks 🇮🇳👍

Great video but why so complicated. I have never used one of these. I stick a blunt 1.4 inch bolt or screw driver in my number one, rotate engine slowly. get it to the top center, then do final adjustment at my distributor. Great video though, I may try this method one day.

Best explanation yet. 👍

4:02 ....006" valve lift? Then why did you measure .006" off the cam lobe? If you have 1.5 to 1 rockers, the valve lift would be .009", right?

thank you for the video. i am not building any engines but have always been curious what is meant by "degreeing a cam". is the piston stopping against the stop bar or do you have that bolt screwed down lower than the bar?

Very good video, I know some people dont understand and get confused because there are different ways to degree a cam you can check the cam at advertised duration, you can check it at .050 thousands or you can use the intake centerline method, study and you guys will learn . Thanks for the great video.

Please wakeup well before u made next videos

Basically all this video shows is how to find true TDC and verify the cam grind, not how to actually degree the cam

What is the main purpose for degreeing your cam, will it help make more power? Why not set up the cam straight up.

This guy seems to know what he's talking about,getting ready to degree the cam in an old Ford flathead(w/471 blower) so this information comes at a pretty good time

will the dial indicator tip alignment matter if i am measuring duration only??

yea...ill just NOT degree a cam, ever. this is a pain in the ass...for almost nothing.

Do not forget to allow for timing chain slack or streach , even with a new chain.That is why I use gears.

Another question. Once you find the degree do you leave the #1 piston at top dead center? Or leave it where u found the last degree?

Please explain why u stopped at 13 degrees and not 0?

Who was the camera man, Stevie Wonder!

after finding the mid point of the two numbers shouldn't you then RESET the degree wheel to O (TDC)?

the essayist way to change the cam angle ,use a off set key

Why don't you set your degree wheel at TDC after establishing it? WTF !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Awesome video you made things clear. Thanks

Two tips my friend, the first is that the video should be done with better lighting and closer reading of both the measurement watches and the specifications of the camshaft, and if possible make a video in Spanish, thanks

pity the camera wouldn't focus on his indicater...

I just wanted to comment as a tech for 30 years you are correct, this is simplified as aposied to getting the calculator and deviding by your numbers by 2 and coming up with a center line number,you have it all right there whith in a few turns,I have used this methed my self ,it works right on every time, great job

First of all greetings, the video is regular, explain why ... you do not show how you should place the gears of the time chain! Must explain if they should be placed point with point, ie is placed as if a tree le cams original, in their videos is already placed the plate or disc of degrees and does not specify or show how to place the gears with the chain weather! Thank you. It would also be very helpful to publish a video in Latin Spanish, and also where it shows in a fast and effective way how to degrade a camshaft in v8 engines.

On a motor like this with LOADS (100 + thousandths) of valve clearance you can leave it 1/2 a degree "off" Best not try that on a Performance tight motor, my intake valve would make contact with the piston....

At 1:14 you say the piston will stop just before the top of the stroke (with the dead stop in). But how much before the top does it need to stop? Is this critical? Meaning, how far do you turn that bolt to protrude past the bottom of the dead stop plate? Would be very grateful if you could shed some light. Thanks.

so how do you apply the degree to the timing chain? do you set the timing chain +or - a tooth to change the degree of the cam?

oh I bet the company is right and you are off 1/2 a degree having made your own lifter tool and your own piston stop, and with the wheel you are using, I bet their equipment is at least 1/2 a degree more accurate than you, not being rude just my observation

we can almost read the piece of paper you are trying to show us, and we can not read the dials at all, I swear this is the third video I have watched on how to degree the cam and it is totally different than the other two, they are all different, makes me wonder how many ways is there to do this thing

You said your intake valve should be open at .006" lift when checking, but then you measure off your lifter .006" not figuring in the rocker arm ratio. What fact is right?

Do i really have to do all this when i replace the cam?????

Great video

Simple and clear explanation - Thanks!

Just a quick fact to note, when using your degree wheel to verify camshaft orientation: Many aftermarket camshaft manufacturers include a "break-in coating" on the camshaft lobes, to aid with initial wear at start-up. While the lobe profile is ground to very precise tolerances, the coating on the cam lobes is not necessarily "evenly applied". If you are noticing a "one degree" discrepancy between the specs on the Cam Card, and your degree wheel, it very well may be the result of non-uniform coating on the lobes.