Sounds like a challenge. Using a multimeter, test it the same way shown in the video and determine where continuity exists (and when). I suspect you have a microswitch with 2 circuit paths, where my video only shows one. Without knowing anything about taxi meters or having a wiring diagram, I could only guess what voltage goes where, but I know many vehicles use the vehicle frame as their ground. Hope this helps...

@@ElecInst Well, after all my testing and blowing 12v fuse on my power source ( I have more fuses). Today I just connected 12V+ to yellow wire and 12V- to the chassis and got the lights to work. I stopped and reassembled. Clock didn't come alive, may need another connection but I'll live with just the lights and the flag turns fine and the bottom 2 windows mechanically change ok. Spent enough time on it, lubed lightly and cleaned inside of front face. Win some, lose some. It does look quite good cosmetically.

@@am1manTravel A good start to be sure. Best bet is to find a wiring diagram, if possible. Aside from completely tearing it apart and physically mapping circuits, this will be the only way to solve the remaining issues. Good luck!!

@@ElecInst Short vid on working pretty good for now! kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJraaJeqitedpNUsi=E5WWHa-gfQismIl5 Thanks for your encouragement!

@@ElecInst Ok, thanks!

I am always amazed at how many different places these switches are used. Thanks for the comment!

Hi bobbofly, Sorry for the extreme delay in my response as I just saw your comment today. Why use one component over another? I don't know. In my experience, companies don't just pick something without reason. Perhaps the manufacturer had trouble sourcing a SPST, or got a considerable price-break for using a microswitch. I like to believe that we all do the best we can with the parts and knowledge we have available. I hope this video helps you do the same.

Hi Tyler. Thank you for your comments. Usually the vendor/manufacturer of the switch will have the info you are seeking. I would use the info on the side and Google as a starting point. I think it important to mention that I am not a microwave technician and microwaves carry a number of hazards, including VERY high voltages. My general rule is to not work on anything that will kill me, so please be aware of this. With that said, I think you've already found significant insight in the switch terminal melting after being replaced. This suggests the melting is a symptom of a different problem, possibly/probably a different component receiving the power from that terminal. But an under-rated switch, a poor wire connection, and other factors may also be involved. Throw in the added complexity of the failure occurring intermittently over time and you have a situation where even the best technicians will be perplexed. For this particular problem, I'd say either take it to someone who has the wiring diagrams and test equipment to figure it out, or buy a new microwave. (Sorry) I will also tell you that for many years I was ignorant on the importance of a proper wire crimp, especially under higher-amp conditions. I found this out because I too experienced melting components. This gentlemen's video is a good start, but some valuable inconsistencies are pointed out in the comments. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKezdoalq5V7mLs I hope this helps, Cecil

I'm not sure what you mean. Can you explain the specifics of what you are wanting to do?

I am trying to change the polarity to a part so that it can change from positive to neutral when the switch is pushed

@@ckain5501 A switch might be part of your overall design, but using it alone would not make this possible. A switch only opens or closes a circuit. There are some instances where you may want a motor to switch direction, as example, and if you were to have two separate voltages already established (pos polarity and neg polarity), then you could supply one of these to NO and the other to NC each being directed out the common. In theory, this would be possible, but there are other factors involved like the amperage of the load and whether or not the switch is rated for it. Depending on the cost of the parts and how critical the operation of this circuit is, you may want to enlist the help of a local expert.

Hello Gerald5000, Please keep in mind that I am not a mechanic and have no knowledge on the vehicle in question, but I suspect what you are wanting to do cannot be accomplished with microswitches alone. With that said, yes, all automotive circuits must share the same ground by connecting to the vehicles frame or battery. I'm sure there are some mechanics cruising the comments who may have more accurate knowledge than I, so I would defer to someone with more experience in this area. Good luck! It sounds like a fun project.

@@ElecInst Thanks for the reply, yeah I've been racking my brain trying, and I don't think I can either. I need a way to interrupt the 'N' displayed with a gear number displayed.

Hi Shoaib, I have never encountered a circuit where leaving one wire off was acceptable, but the only way to know for sure is to contact the manufacturer.

@@ElecInst Ok. Thanks

All switches have power ratings. You will need to confirm the switch you are using is rated for the application.

@@ElecInst thanks for the reply,can i do any damage if i use this on a 12/24v because the voltage is lower on consumption in my car

Thank you. I'm glad you found it useful. Speed can be measured in many ways, so I'm uncertain which part you might be referring to as faster. Consider a typical light switch in a home as having 3 states; On, Off, and an area in the middle where it is technically neither on or off. The microswitch removes this area so it is either on or off depending on lever travel distance. This is accomplished by the use of a spring-loaded conductor inside the switch. The spring certainly makes the switching mechanism travel faster than a switch without this spring, but both types rely on an outside force moving the arm to start the process. Your question suggests you have something particular in mind, but without knowing the application and what is required, then this becomes a difficult question to answer. I hope this helps you figure out your next steps.

Hello Dan! Thank you for your comments. I hope the video helps to clarify any questions you might have had. I use several different software suites to achieve the effects needed. Typically, I make 3D models in Blender, texture them in Photoshop, compile in Premiere Pro, and add special effects in After Effects.

That's quite a process to get the 3D modeling done, but it sure helps clarify how things work. I've downloaded Blender and am starting to dig in. Thanks again! I'm in the process of converting my portable sawmill to hydraulic and 12V motor controlled. The limit switches will be used on two Bodine gear head motors, coupled with (35, 41 sized) chains and idlers to pull the cutting head, and log clamp, to keep them from bottoming out at the end of their tracks. Take care!

@@dankeenan9759 Sounds like a neat project. Good luck with it! For what it's worth, Blender can be difficult to understand when you first start, but I think it's worth pushing through. I suggest you look up Andrew Price (BlenderGuru) for tutorials. He has a very good beginner series.

@@ElecInst Yes, it has been an amazing journey with the sawmill... electrical, mechanical, hydraulic, welding, fabrication, etc... life is better when we're working on a "project!" Thanks again Cecil!

Hi Nate! I hope it helped. I'm like you... I hate ads too!!

Perhaps something like this? kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6KkhqCdepiKr68

@@ElecInst Haa Haa Haa : ) That is really cool. Well, this is for sure plan B (and maybe even more cool than actually my plan A) ..

Glad it helped. Good luck in your robotics discoveries!

Thank you!