Wow, that is an incredible compliment, thank you Chris! I’ve got a long way to go, but I’m working on it.

Thank you very much! I can’t take too much credit though- it’s just how good the MRP paint is, I’m shooting it straight from the bottle. I was using a .2 airbrush, and probably around 15 PSI. They are strong lacquers, but they work beautifully!

@@cj_modeller Sorry, was not precise, I meant GX gloss and flat varnishes?

Many thanks my friend! This scheme was too cool for me to resist!

Much appreciated!

Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks man! They are the best, 100% do it

Hah, my favorite color combo!

The highest praise lol, thank you! Working on more as we speak

Hey Mark, your intuition is good here, thanks for the comment. Basically, if you’re going to do this I’d use lacquers to give the strongest possible surface. But yes, even then, X-20A will eventually eat into the paint, but I’ve found MRP gives me enough time before that happens that I can complete the ink application without issue. I found that It also matters how much X-20A you use, and if you flood the surface it eats away faster than if you just use a very light coat. Gunze may be even more resilient, too, but that’s another story.

@@cj_modeller I used Real Color Lacquers but the X-20A still ate through it even on a light coat on my test subject. I put a gloss varnish on it and I'm waiting for that to dry and then trying again. If it doesn't work - I may just go with salt weathering stencil and give that a shot at a later point. Thanks for replying.

One other note - I was using 91% IPA so that could be a reason it ate through it quick.

@@marklee3066Ah, interesting, that surprises me somewhat thanks for mentioning it. I’d imagine the 91% IPA is stronger than X-20A but that’s just based on smell… Regardless, the chemistry on this stuff can be unpredictable. For instance, I can’t really do salt weathering on MRP because even with just water the salt eats into the paint. But Gunze doesn’t react at all. The only other thing I’ll note is that Kris Sieber, on his F-14 that kind of popularized this technique, used Gunze. Either way, I still really like salt weathering so If you have to go that route it’s certainly no loss.

Haha it’s just the kit decal actually! Applied carefully, but it wasn’t even that bad! I’ll do another 109 soon and film that part for sure

Thank you very much Andrew! Don’t listen to the naysayers who say the hobby is dying- it is very much thriving!

Thank you!

Very true, these are challenging paint jobs!

Thank you!

Hey Speed, they’re flipped so that they can always be read left-to-right, if that’s what you mean?

Hey man, thank you! Good question- so the texture template is really just a form of “pre-shading” like people do on their panel lines. It just adds some variation to finish and makes it look less flat and more interesting. You’ve just gotta be careful not to paint over it completely though. Note when I say “texture” I mean just visually, the paint itself should still be nice and smooth. Also, you can get a similar result with a stretched out scouring pad to save some money! Let me know if you have any more questions!

@@cj_modeller interesting! Thank you for breaking this down for me and the insight. I'll give it a try this weekend. :)

Yo! Thank you my man, I plan on it

Thanks!

Thank you!

Hah yeah, there was some sort of legal issue there right? Annoying, but I’m sure there are aftermarket solutions around

Thank you! And it is, it’s probably one of the few truly game changing techniques to arise in years imo

It's "Super Detailing the F-14 Tomcat from Dai Nippon Kaiga by Kris Sieber" (i think!)

@@paulhargreaves1497 Thanks!

Thanks man!

Thank you!

Thank you!