How can i do this in 2007 honda ridgeline?

try 2018 cruz so many times between those blocks cable didn't work

This tool is ridiculously awesome! I've gotta ask though, was there really no way to match the number of bumps to the number you write down? I know myself and the logical disconnect of writing a 5 when I count three (arbitrary numbers, I can't remember what the actual numbers were in the video) would perpetually get transposed and constantly trigger my less then useful "Ginger Rage Response" when normal, non orange headed humans would maybe say "damn-it" at most! I have a suspicion that the numbers which you write down after counting bumps are not something you guys came up with, and are likely correlated with a standardized key cutting depth used across the industry. I would be doomed to constant and frequent Ginger Rage Responses if I used this, wouldn't I? Yeah. Oh, and just because I want to whine about something I actually do understand well, I offer the following criticisms of your video production practices as nothing more than genuine, nonjudgmental, and constructive advice because you guys are demonstrating an improved version of a tool which I'm pretty sure you painstakingly designed to provide an incredibly unique capability, but also had the vision to pair it with one of the cleanest utility phone apps I've seen, and somehow managed to find a way to ensure the proper utilization of the tools and interpretation of the measurements was as intuitive and foolproof as possible. I want the production quality of your demo videos to not somehow blow people away because they are so flashy and exciting. On the contrary, I want your demo videos to provide those who are watching them because they are considering purchasing the tool or already own the tool and are seeking guidance on how to use it with a training resource which is absolutely free of any distractions to the point that they forget they're watching a video! If you ever decide to produce an updated video to replace, or even supplement this one, treat the session like you are in front of a class of eager students who all paid to be able to attend your training course which you'd likely be compelled to ensure you prepare more thoroughly than doing the videos off the cuff in your office between emails. Setup in a location where people aren't going to walk in, phones aren't going to ring, and air conditioning vents aren't going to wash out your explanations. And for the love of all things holy, don't start the lesson with a demonstration tool that you forgot to charge and is indicating 10%! One of the many benefits of using lithium ion batteries over traditional alkaline or NiCad batteries is their ability to maintain a near constant nominal voltage output throughout almost their entire capacity discharge curve. The other side of that coin, however, is that there was actually an unintended feature of those old legacy batteries which was lost with the advent and widespread adoption of today's lithium ion batteries. That steady, predictable, and easily recognized reduction in output voltage the old rechargeable NiCad batteries suffer from whenever depleted below ~75% capacity, all least when powering non-voltage sensitive motorized equipment, was essentially a clear, unambiguous warning induction that the battery was approaching a fully depleted state. You know, how the old Gen 1 battery powered cordless drills would only produce their maximum RPM and torque for about the first 5 minutes of a fully charged battery with steadily decreasing performance as the battery charge was depleted! Sure, the idea of being able to depend on your lithium ion batteries to provide your equipment an output voltage level at or near the designed nominal range for nearly the entire discharge curve, but what happens after is what you should be concerned with. You started the demonstration with the tool battery at 10% capacity, which just so happens to be the expected lithium ion battery capacity where many battery controller circuits lose the ability to maintain that nominal voltage level or is likely eminent. I've heard a number is terms used, but most often it's just referred to as the battery charge capacity voltage drop off point. The problem with that is yeah, the voltage is going to drop, after all, electromechanical laws of physics and stuff. However, there are battery controller circuits that don't necessarily recognize that they need to give up, and try to maintain that magic voltage output. However as this is happening the voltage powering the circuit itself becomes unstable, and after that it's anyone's guess, but generally the tools act wonky. I think we saw this in your video when your indicated charge level was something like 20% with 18 minutes of estimated life left suddenly dropped to 9% and 9 minutes. It also could be the last battery level reading still in the tool's cache memory getting sent before the most current reading was transmitted to the phone. Regardless, it really wasn't a good look and presented an unnecessary distraction. I suspect you aren't concerned with the battery controller circuit's low voltage stability performance, and based on the time left at 10% charge, you're stepping the 1.5v or 3.0v for every component which would add another layer of component protection. Lastly, cell phone video cameras are frankly better than some stand alone units, but you could still do well to add two elements. First is a digitally stabilized handheld gimbal mount, and second a second camera, cameraman, and gimbal mount. It's amazing how much more you can show with more than one perspective and a little desktop PC editing. Maybe a fixed dedicated camera mounted above the cell phone you're running the app on would also reduce a fair amount of the back and forth panning. I don't think a direct line screen shot feed would be a good idea because your use of the pointer or pen to indicate which bumps you were referring to was very valuable. Again, only friendly advice, albeit unsolicited and nitpicky. But something tells me that if you happened upon me showing off the new padlock keyway insert with an embedded video camera designed to allow users to see how the pins were set, you'd probably see some elements of my design that could be modified to operate better and offer to explain them to me, wouldn't ya???

these look like half tools that work together. would it be feasible to have the supplementary 1-3 tool designed to decode all 7 positions?

2:39 your "frequently asked questions" on the app should be spelled faq not fqa.

Ummm. SC1 is Schlage. The key you are inserting says “Kwikset”. What are you doing?

$6000 pesotes 😮 aproximadamente

Plz show how to put it back together and in! I know I’m not the only one struggling

Hello My name is Rayan, I am from France, specifically from Paris. I came across your video because I am very interested in buying this item. My question is: does it allow, yes or no, to make French locks by taking the size and shape of the key in order to reproduce it? The nine models shown in the photos of your gadget-can these models be found on French locks? I hope you understand me and I really hope you can help me. If unfortunately, it doesn’t work for the French market, could you recommend a similar product

How do you pull the roll pin out of the sleeve ?

How does one switch the camera back and forth as had camera coming loose from the kw1 so had to use a tiny tad bit of rtv to adhere the wiring to hold the camera to the kw1 key blade. Myself I ppl Lan on down the road getting the sc1 kit. It would be nice if we had the kw1 tool already that if We could show our receipt and being that we were early.Adopters, we could get the sc1 Add the price of the kit of both less the kw1 we paid for as early adopters. Kind of like a coupon for those who adopted and bought the product early. I'd line to get the case & SC1 setup butni just don't want to pay more than I would buying as a kit dollar for dollar. Maybe if lock tech could offer a direct rebate, combo or something if we order the upgrade directly from them I'd do it when I get the money.

Tried 1billion times and never worked

What is the main cause of the misalignment?

Could this be a solution to a loooong crank no start on an 09 TL thats had alternator, battery and main relay (pgm-fi) all replaced?

I’ve now had two successful decodings with this tool. While it’s not easy to finesse with my arthritic fingers, it does work!

Need help, picking a gen 5 ...1 Can it be picked or just decoded because everytime i slide the tool i made all the way in the side bar, pick the pins, put tension and removed side bar tool, a pin drops everytime, however I did pick a smart key with same side bar and this did not happen, what is going on? How can I pick it?

Looks like an awesome item can’t wait to have one one of these days

$500 for the set of tools. Difficult to see that much value from this.

Trying over an hour with no luck!!😢

I'll be ordering this. Quick question though. A customer not that long ago had a quick set smart key technology lock that seemed to have a different keyway. The decoder was not about to fit that key way. KW1 would not fit in it. I should have tried to see if a SC1 would fit. Are there new Kwikset smart key lock that have different keyways than a KW1?

That tools removes the steering lock too ?

Ordered today, ran into an all locked deadbolts and knobs. All gen 5s, just the scope with the cuts all 1-3. Drilled the plug out near the side bar. Was able to spin over with a flathead. From now on will give the new scope a try, I like looking professional to my customers. Puts me above pop a lock 🫠. The second cylinder in my career I’ve ever drilled. Gave them a scrap lock to replace for free though.

Do you have a video on how to put it back together? I'm struggling how to put everything back together

Our company bought a few of them and they have crapped out and tried to call you guys, but never even got a returned phone call…

Bro the price is right and the quality amazing

You did it again! Can't wait to get my hands on one of these. PS, thanks for all your help at the Cycle class in October in Vegas! It was a pleasure!

A nice long pair of tweezers works well for screwdrivwr spring fights, lol.

👏🏼

Nice job on your video. Great product. Glad you figured out a way to decode a fifth generation smart key. Wow what a bunch of trouble that all is I ordered mine today and I will post a video on it when I get it I have your first generation light saber hopefully everything will work on that first GEN

Nice!

Awesome. Thanks for the update!!!

With a family standing behind me, waiting to get back into their house, it is so much faster/cheaper/easier to just drill and replace, then rekey to match.

Awesome 👏

Woo Hoo!

Just did a 2019 gmc canyon. This does not work unless u pick the ignition first

Make sure to show how to get keys and do all the work so no one will ever need a locksmith

I need a new blade for my Gen1 deccoder, the mirror is missing

whats the screw size for the ignition mountt i really need to know cause mine is lost, it would be great if you reply asap 😄

VERY useful. Other methods do risk destroying the chip. I destroyed one on an Acura last week... It is only the second time I have done that. Glad it was for a car that was at my shop, and not a Mazda Miata or 626, or a car out of town. For those posting negative comments... your points miss the useful situations, where transplanting a chip is a timesaver. FCA TYPE 1 and PACIFICA... destroy the chip, or fail to clone.... and you gotta pull the skim to read it EEPROM or run the vin via NASTF for your pin code. I have used PVC cutters, Linemen's' cable cutters, Heat Guns and other tools. In retrospect, this is a pretty nice tool. IF harvesting a LOT of chips, any timesavers pay their cost back quickly ( ROI )

Is there an update to handle the newest KW1 keyway cylinders? I encountered a brand new one that client had installed the day before... leaving the box, keys and programming guide inside the locked bedroom. I did not get any recognizable images on the Decoder. Lishi also failed.....no binding in any position. I realize Kwikset is doing redesigns fairly often for obfuscation. Any updates to effect success on these ?

Cool tool, terrible tutorial. Only shows half the process. Doesn't show how to re-assemble the ignition (necessary before putting it back in, or even how to re-insert the ignition when you're done using the tool. I wish these demo people would show the whole process of using their tool, not just half. Be thorough and release a video that shows the entire process, then maybe another that addresses common problems, frequently asked questions, etc.

am i the only one that caught on he demonstrated an sc1 but called it kwikset?

WORKING AS PRESCRIBE, DANGEROUS TOOL TO 350 MILLION americans AND 37 MILLION Canadians, which probably half has weiser smartkey technology produced since 2009+-Today.

Good Morning my improvement below that I mention is a slight modification to the spacers I did this on mine rather crudely with a Dremel and made them work so much more effective and my results where amazing after this modification I do think this could be done easily during manufacturing with out much trouble and no cost difference .

Looking forward to purchasing your new version amazing new features I bought the original optical then your first version, I have found a simple improvement in your first version I would love to speak to you about this improvement to see if you could include this in the future.

Does the lockTech work on normal SC1 Deadbolts and Doorknobs/Handles? Non smartlock tech.

Lishi do same without all the extra costs steps.

It would be helpful if there were 4 lines on the side of the blade for spacing by eye.

Just used the tool today on a newer smart key and unfortunately, it looks like they've redesigned the lock. I just picked up this tool a couple months ago and now it is useless on newer smartkeys.

where did you score the blanks cant find them online!! well at least with part numbers you shared.