Thanks! I hope these videos help. I'm not on Instagram 😔

Thank you!

Thanks! All episodes of the ECU install are done and posted if you wanted to watch the others.

Thanks! Good luck with your project!

The car has about 175k miles total. But approximately 10k since adding the standalone ECU.

And thanks!!

Thanks! I built a custom exhaust with Vibrant muffler and Vibrant ultra quiet resonator.

I built a custom exhaust using Vibrant pieces; Ultra Quiet Resonator and Muffler.

Nope, haven't turbo'd. It'd be fairly easy to, but not what I want for this car (yet).

Yes, the tach wire output from the ECUmaster runs the tach (I forget which wire behind the dash, I'll dig it up though and let you know). But I never got the economy gauge to work. I think the gauge itself works by resistance (?), but the extra outputs for tue ECU are voltage based. There's probably a way to build a small circuit to get it to work correctly, but I haven't done it. Let me know if you figure something out!

In my old notes, it looks like I used output AUX4 from the ECUmaster (I selected that as my tach signal in the program) to the black/blue wire under the dash. This wire originally received it's signal from my DME output pin 21, so I cut it and wired it to the ECUmaster. I hope this helps.

Thanks a lot, you are a life saver 🙏 I will look into the economy gage and let you know if I figure it out 😁

Thanks! They are BBS RC090's.

Thank you!

Thanks!

The only way I am able to get the M50 ICV to work on my M30 is that I am controlling it via the standalone ECU. Are you planning to use the stock ECU and wiring, or aftermarket?

Thanks!

I live in Texas, but I am not a shop. I only work on my own vehicles for fun. Sorry! 😐

I didn't use a base tune, but it was pretty easy to get a base map using the engine parameters, like capacity, fuel injector size, etc. I could also share my map if you ever need it.

Yes, I can share. Please be sure to watch the videos so you are aware of the differences between your setup and mine, so you don't hurt your engine!

@@safetythird4555 Hello and thanks for your response!!! I have seen all of your videos and I took them as a reference while I am at it!!! Thanks again for sharing your tune!

Where do you want me to send?

@@safetythird4555 how can I give you my email??? Its on my channel....

Not in this case. There was too much slop in the shifter pin from the transmission. Without fixing that, a shift kit wouldn't have helped. I also enjoyed making my own "short shifter".

Thanks!

Only slightly. I'm averaging ~1 to ~1.5 miles more per gallon. Probably more to do with the optimized tune, rather than all the changes I made.

Thanks!

Thanks! Yes, I talk about making the cold air intake in Part 2 of the series.

Good luck!

I'm glad you enjoyed it. I hope you learned something useful. Good luck with your project!

Yes, I have a project starting soon and will be posting the videos! Thanks!

Yes, I can share it. Please verify all of your inputs and outputs!

Im trying to send you an email, but my comments are automaticly erased, whats your insta acc?

I left you a mess on web site

Ok, i've send it again

I sent the map file. Please let me know if you didn't receive it.

Yeah, you should be able to use it to control the fuel and spark, just like I did in mine. But you may have to have a "balance" or equalization strategy for the ITBs because the vacuum/pressure reading will vary wildly if you just use one of the ITBs for your manifold pressure reading. Good luck!

Yeah, I totally agree. I had multiple issues with the stock setup. It also still had the import required piggyback O2 sensor that "tricked" the stock ECU adjusting fuel ratio and timing. With all the issues, it was easier for me to just install the programmable ECU, not to mention more fun! Good luck with your project!

Hell yeah!!!

Thanks!

You're welcome!

Safety Third isn't just the name of the channel, it's a way of life! 😀

Mine was a European automatic transmission (I put a manual transmission in an earlier video), which only had an "on" or "off" signal from the TPS that was originally on the throttle. It wasn't a variable voltage signal, which is what the ECU needs to determine load or throttle position. So I replaced it with the USA automatic transmission model TPS for the variable signal. Your's may already have the correct signal, just measure resistance then open and close the throttle. Good luck!

@@safetythird4555 ok that makes sense. My car is a UK import (im in Australia) so im guessing mine has the variability in the automatic TPS like yours id imagine if im not mistaken, im going to swap it out for the e36 tps as the wiring loom the ecu comes with already has a plug for so saves me having to do extra wiring

Given the same year (1985) and engine (M30B34), the ECUs might be same. The process for replacing it with a standalone programmable ECU should be the same.

I am not an expert, but I like old BMWs! Thanks for your comment.

It should work exactly the same. You'll need a 60-2 toothed wheel from a later engine. The M90 and M30 are very similar.

I would recommend ECUMaster. It met all of my needs and it is working good. For the price, it is great.

Should be almost exactly the same. The E24 and E28 share most of the same components, one has 4 doors and the other 2. All of the parts I used for the swap were from an E28 actually.

@@safetythird4555 thank you!! I’m going to start looking for an auto 535i or 535is now, and convert to manual since they are getting so difficult to find.

Thanks. It definitely feels better now.

Thanks!

Yep, a turbo is now a viable option for even more fun! Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

I'm almost done with the last video. I found an issue with my trigger setup and had to install a completely different trigger wheel. So close the finish line! Thanks for watching!

@@safetythird4555 thanks for update. 👍🏻

Thanks! I actually had the driveshaft refurbished, so keeping the separate halves marked didn't apply in this situation, but great tip nonetheless. And I didn't know that about the center support bearing. Maybe I should go back under there and do that. Thanks again!

@@safetythird4555 No problem. Getting the driveshaft rebuilt on some of the older models is sometimes the only way to get rid of driveline vibrations when the guibo, center bearing, or nose bushing doesn't help. Obviously the u-joints can degrade and from rust the factory weights that are tack welded on can get pitched off. Most driveshaft shops can do European shafts but the collets that they chuck into the machine have to be able to adapt to the shaft ends. If it were an American car you could go anywhere. Thank god that people still specialize in this for that reason. These cars are getting to the age where you cant always just swap in a 'known-good" part from a recycler without it possibly being plagued with the same issues. I wouldn't worry about your CSB preload if you aren't feeling any vibration. It can be rather negligible depending on application, but if you had yours rebuilt and it isn't shaking under your butt I'm willing to bet you're all good. Definitely a good DIY for someone who is looking to do the swap. If you're like me, I won't even entertain half these cars for sale unless they are manual from the factory, or I got an automatic one for a good deal with the whole purpose of doing the swap.

Thanks!

My E24 is originally a euro automatic transmission model, so my TPS had the 2 switches. That's why I had to change the throttle body to a US spec automatic version so I could get the variable TPS. The US automatic throttle bodies had the 2 switches and a separate variable TPS for the transmission signal.