nice 2 see u kept in the flaws and how u worked them out ❤❤

Thanks.

Hi

Thank you!!

This is one of the best simplified heat treatment videos I've seen. Nice work and thank you! B.R.Leckie, blacksmith, Victoria, Australia.

Great content I subbed!!

Dennis, this is the best description of hardening and tempering on KZbin.

Thank you for this! Beginner blacksmith here. If I understand correctly, leaf spring steel is 5160? After tempering your chisel, you quenched in water. How about canola oil? Does it make any difference really? I’m using leaf spring steel to make knives (I’m new at that too). Should the quenching process be the same for knives as tools? Thanks again.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Topic is very helpful especially the discoloration of steel is top notch information. Thank you for your time to put video together! 😊😊😊😊

Extremely good. New sub and liked. Thank you.

Incredible video! I understand the processes and explanations with ease, so much so that I'm gonna share this vid with my university's blacksmithing club

Speaking of salvaged steel; a friend gave me a couple of teeth off of a grader. Tried cutting the stuff with my abrasive chopsaw. I ultimately had to normalize them in the gas forge before l could cut out a few billets to make dies for my trip hammer. In the end l made a set of combination dies. As to heat treating, l stopped at normalizing as opposed to hardening and tempering. Considering the amount of carbon in the dies, even normalized, they have no trouble forming mild steel without marring of the dies. In retrospect l figure this has left the dies more durable. I guess l'm just reiterating a point made by John at Blackbear that we don't always have to harden tools if we're just going to work with mild steel. I would also like to say that an earlier video of yours did an amazing job explaining the running of the colours. I had read about that in an old blacksmithing book, but didn't really understand until l watched your video. Thank you for that. Cheers.

👍✌️⚒️

Excellent explanation of the heat treatment process suitable for a blacksmith. Well done.

Love the focus on easily accessible steel sources and just enough detail to understand how and a bit of why without complicating things; thanks!

Very good demo and description. I was gifted a set of used rock rake tines, Italian steel. Tough but low carbon. It wouldn't harden in oil and normal hardening in water did not produce enough hardness for work. I found heating and quenching at high heat make a serviceable punch no tempering. The stock was marked Italy, but I couldn't find much info. on it. For what it's worth. Experiment and know your stock as best you can. Thanks Dennis.

You kept it simple.................excellent!

Pretty much all my chisels and punches were made from coil springs, and they've been going strong for years. Can't beat free steel to make tools from! If it's the right steel, of course. Thanks!

Excellent info! Thanks for explaining it so that even I can understand!

Great video, thanks! Beware that residual oil on the work piece will distort the temper colours

I find crowbars for $1-5 at flea markets and garage sales. Lots of cheap tools to be found there. Used and rusted files are about 25 cents and come in a bunch of different shapes and sizes

Great video Denis. You've illustrated the hardening and tempering process very well. Thanks I have the set of encyclopedias and still reference them often.

Lots of good info fast. Thanks.

I tried to teach myself(with the help of a blacksmith) to make a free of leaf spring steel. A huge failure on the forge weld!! Simply would not weld to itself. I'd love to see what you do with a leaf spring.

10 lbs of welding rod and 32 grinding disc's, I love it, that's how I like to operate

I have an 100lb anvil I've got build up 90 0/0 of the face , wondering would it a good idea to put steel plate on it after I get it build up and ground. and if so what kind of steel plate should I use?

( context: l'm not a blacksmith, just watching videos) How you get temper temperature of 550C of sand when not measuring with modern meter? How did they did in the past?

Is reasonable to file the sides sharper when it is flat (2:24), when you save some energy afterwards (6:06), or would they deform badly? And if you have to temper it, where you would start heating it in forge?

Great video and series, Denis! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Did you get a new mic or camera, btw? Lookin/sounding good 👍

Very instructive! Thank you!

Hi denis I forged your knife maker's tongs and anvil ruler they have really made my work simpler. Thanks for sharing your wisdom with us all godbless and good health.

Nice demo of alll the great styles of tongs, Thanks Denis

Very nice! I do wonder though, why do you say you don't recommend flat jaw tongs for forging? Flat jaws are my go-to, I just makes sure to set them to my stock size

Always a joy to see you at work. The skills and demonstration is so motivating! Thank you!

Very nice work friend

In one video you were comparing hammers and said something like “this handle will kill you.” How do I know if I have a good hammer handle or one that will kill me?

Denis, is there a particular reason or reasons that you recommend the square reins for? I've never tried any tongs with that shape of handle, but am certainly willing to change/learn if you've got a good reason that I can't think of right now.

This is probably the most useful thing making video I’ve seen anywhere

Amen to using 5160 spring steel for tooling! I've made all my daily use chisels and fullers out of it, and it works just fine. Punches, on the other hand, tend to deform, but I can live with that given that I get the 5160 free.

Definitely going to be referencing this video multiple times over the next few months. I successfully made my first set of box jaw tongs following the steps of another video of yours and found it extremely easy to follow your steps and progression through the project. I appreciate you sharing this information/knowledge/experience with all of us. Great jon Denis! 🔨 💪 🔥 💧

Good afternoon DF, I was given my anvil and post vise by a widow I worked with about 10 years ago. I was curious a out the threading on the post vise and unscrewed it. It looks like the threads are almost completely worn away on the inside. Is that common for a 100 year old post vise? Or, are the threads originally designed differently that a normal vise that has a consistent threading along the whole shaft? Thanks!

Off-topic - l like that microphone sound effect. Blast from the past. You don't hear that often nowadays, unless it is edited.

Good point about the vice bearing Correct, we can check sizes ourselves if needed I say 1 lb of steel tanks projects that are almost 1 lb. Might have been me asking for radius of pein. I had experience a 4 lb cross pein that was than I should work with I'm 62 and it was too heavy so I gifted it to a younger Smith who says he loves it that bigger radius is so forgiving and marks very little radius. I took a dime and cut a washer in half to make a Guage for accuracy measures my pein before I grind them to keep the radius to match as before I grind. The Smith that I'd gifted the hammer was estimating nickel or quarter size. I'm wishing I had gauge it before gifted it away he lives 800 miles away I weld a hooked bar to hang the gauge on I'll make him one about quarter size and he'll match it to the radius of the 4 lb. Hammer to help me copy the radius. That's radius is so important I believe. I'm still believing you. J.P. Services and Black Bear Forge are the biggest reasons I'm loving this craft. The hammer skills I've learned from you and J.P. Services Black Bear has lots of projects and safety advice I'm thinking thanks for teaching the 3 of you have been influence. Myself I mostly enjoy gardening tools and tools that are helpful in my garage DIY just handy been making better tools than Harbor freight mostly and cheaper Thanks Dennis

Awesome!

Thank You!

Knowledge

Fantastic! I really like the simple explanation for each tong sets.

Remember you have talked about Blacksmith hammers, Question? The radius of the best hammer I've used was on a 4 lb double 45 degree hammer that the pein was great for moving steel yet didn't mark the steel as smaller diameter pein often does . Will you advise on the radius of a great pein That heavy 4 lbs got heavy and I gifted it to a Facebook Blacksmith that had given me some coaching partly so I would not us that 4 lbs that I probably shouldn't have to temp me into using BIG THANKS Sir

Belle vidéo et merci pour avoir mis les mesures en métrique comme toujours encore bravo Didier ( France )

Thanks Dennis! Another great useful video!!