nice 2 see u kept in the flaws and how u worked them out ❤❤
@deansawich62508 сағат бұрын
Thanks.
@ahmadbashaforgeworks952110 сағат бұрын
Hi
@dcmsr514122 сағат бұрын
Thank you!!
@benleckie57753 күн бұрын
This is one of the best simplified heat treatment videos I've seen. Nice work and thank you! B.R.Leckie, blacksmith, Victoria, Australia.
@dcmsr51413 күн бұрын
Great content I subbed!!
@Alanbataar4 күн бұрын
Dennis, this is the best description of hardening and tempering on KZbin.
@6Sally54 күн бұрын
Thank you for this! Beginner blacksmith here. If I understand correctly, leaf spring steel is 5160? After tempering your chisel, you quenched in water. How about canola oil? Does it make any difference really? I’m using leaf spring steel to make knives (I’m new at that too). Should the quenching process be the same for knives as tools? Thanks again.
@df-intheshop3304 күн бұрын
I harden all my tools in canola oil. I use it mainly because I can use our kitchen oven to temper things and it just smells like fries. The tempering process does not get anywhere near the critical temp so water is ok to slow down or stop the progression of heat reaching the tip.
@atothek18045 күн бұрын
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Topic is very helpful especially the discoloration of steel is top notch information. Thank you for your time to put video together! 😊😊😊😊
@LitoGeorge6 күн бұрын
Extremely good. New sub and liked. Thank you.
@TheSkaBouncer6 күн бұрын
Incredible video! I understand the processes and explanations with ease, so much so that I'm gonna share this vid with my university's blacksmithing club
@bunyanforgings78496 күн бұрын
Speaking of salvaged steel; a friend gave me a couple of teeth off of a grader. Tried cutting the stuff with my abrasive chopsaw. I ultimately had to normalize them in the gas forge before l could cut out a few billets to make dies for my trip hammer. In the end l made a set of combination dies. As to heat treating, l stopped at normalizing as opposed to hardening and tempering. Considering the amount of carbon in the dies, even normalized, they have no trouble forming mild steel without marring of the dies. In retrospect l figure this has left the dies more durable. I guess l'm just reiterating a point made by John at Blackbear that we don't always have to harden tools if we're just going to work with mild steel. I would also like to say that an earlier video of yours did an amazing job explaining the running of the colours. I had read about that in an old blacksmithing book, but didn't really understand until l watched your video. Thank you for that. Cheers.
@jasonscott78036 күн бұрын
👍✌️⚒️
@ibpopp6 күн бұрын
Excellent explanation of the heat treatment process suitable for a blacksmith. Well done.
@bjh49707 күн бұрын
Love the focus on easily accessible steel sources and just enough detail to understand how and a bit of why without complicating things; thanks!
@stantilton21917 күн бұрын
Very good demo and description. I was gifted a set of used rock rake tines, Italian steel. Tough but low carbon. It wouldn't harden in oil and normal hardening in water did not produce enough hardness for work. I found heating and quenching at high heat make a serviceable punch no tempering. The stock was marked Italy, but I couldn't find much info. on it. For what it's worth. Experiment and know your stock as best you can. Thanks Dennis.
@richardcook5557 күн бұрын
You kept it simple.................excellent!
@brysonalden54147 күн бұрын
Pretty much all my chisels and punches were made from coil springs, and they've been going strong for years. Can't beat free steel to make tools from! If it's the right steel, of course. Thanks!
@BaadSaint7 күн бұрын
Excellent info! Thanks for explaining it so that even I can understand!
@timothymoore78907 күн бұрын
Great video, thanks! Beware that residual oil on the work piece will distort the temper colours
@brankoval46867 күн бұрын
I find crowbars for $1-5 at flea markets and garage sales. Lots of cheap tools to be found there. Used and rusted files are about 25 cents and come in a bunch of different shapes and sizes
@littlepaddy74447 күн бұрын
Great video Denis. You've illustrated the hardening and tempering process very well. Thanks I have the set of encyclopedias and still reference them often.
@dennisw73507 күн бұрын
Lots of good info fast. Thanks.
@kevinorr68807 күн бұрын
I tried to teach myself(with the help of a blacksmith) to make a free of leaf spring steel. A huge failure on the forge weld!! Simply would not weld to itself. I'd love to see what you do with a leaf spring.
@joepickle3438 күн бұрын
10 lbs of welding rod and 32 grinding disc's, I love it, that's how I like to operate
@kennethbriody839612 күн бұрын
I have an 100lb anvil I've got build up 90 0/0 of the face , wondering would it a good idea to put steel plate on it after I get it build up and ground. and if so what kind of steel plate should I use?
@ivan5559912 күн бұрын
( context: l'm not a blacksmith, just watching videos) How you get temper temperature of 550C of sand when not measuring with modern meter? How did they did in the past?
@ivan5559912 күн бұрын
Is reasonable to file the sides sharper when it is flat (2:24), when you save some energy afterwards (6:06), or would they deform badly? And if you have to temper it, where you would start heating it in forge?
@robertmuntz776313 күн бұрын
Great video and series, Denis! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Did you get a new mic or camera, btw? Lookin/sounding good 👍
@Sigma-sj7mq13 күн бұрын
Very instructive! Thank you!
@mountainwolf113 күн бұрын
Hi denis I forged your knife maker's tongs and anvil ruler they have really made my work simpler. Thanks for sharing your wisdom with us all godbless and good health.
@RRINTHESHOP14 күн бұрын
Nice demo of alll the great styles of tongs, Thanks Denis
@PossumSausage14 күн бұрын
Very nice! I do wonder though, why do you say you don't recommend flat jaw tongs for forging? Flat jaws are my go-to, I just makes sure to set them to my stock size
@df-intheshop33014 күн бұрын
I don't recommend them mainly because they only hold the work on two sides. If you are hammering on edge the bar can move sideways even on well fitting tongs. I forge with box tongs not flat bit.
@Smallathe14 күн бұрын
Always a joy to see you at work. The skills and demonstration is so motivating! Thank you!
@tonybryant552415 күн бұрын
Very nice work friend
@MOOPS18 күн бұрын
In one video you were comparing hammers and said something like “this handle will kill you.” How do I know if I have a good hammer handle or one that will kill me?
@df-intheshop33018 күн бұрын
Most hammer handles today are designed to survive the manufacturing process and life in a toolbox not protect your arm from injury. Look up my video Blacksmithing for beginners - Hammer Handles
@bobvines0020 күн бұрын
Denis, is there a particular reason or reasons that you recommend the square reins for? I've never tried any tongs with that shape of handle, but am certainly willing to change/learn if you've got a good reason that I can't think of right now.
@df-intheshop33020 күн бұрын
I'm not suggesting you make square reins this is just an easy way to picture the volume you are going to end up with by using the dimensions I've provided. You can forge the reins any way you like. In the video I've actually forged them out to a rectangular cross section ( with the corners hammered back). Roughly 1/4"+ wide X 1/2"+ high tapering down to a 1/4"ish octagonal. Thanks for the question I'll explain that better in part 2 of this video.
@carpy197020 күн бұрын
This is probably the most useful thing making video I’ve seen anywhere
@brysonalden541420 күн бұрын
Amen to using 5160 spring steel for tooling! I've made all my daily use chisels and fullers out of it, and it works just fine. Punches, on the other hand, tend to deform, but I can live with that given that I get the 5160 free.
@cae248720 күн бұрын
Definitely going to be referencing this video multiple times over the next few months. I successfully made my first set of box jaw tongs following the steps of another video of yours and found it extremely easy to follow your steps and progression through the project. I appreciate you sharing this information/knowledge/experience with all of us. Great jon Denis! 🔨 💪 🔥 💧
@alanbutler771221 күн бұрын
Good afternoon DF, I was given my anvil and post vise by a widow I worked with about 10 years ago. I was curious a out the threading on the post vise and unscrewed it. It looks like the threads are almost completely worn away on the inside. Is that common for a 100 year old post vise? Or, are the threads originally designed differently that a normal vise that has a consistent threading along the whole shaft? Thanks!
@df-intheshop33020 күн бұрын
It's pretty common for the first few inches of the threads to be worn away because most of the clamping is in that region. However if you're saying that the threads are worn away on the wrong side ( not the clamping face ) then that is called a buttressed thread. They are triangular in shape with a large flat clamping face that is set to 90 degrees. They are really common in woodworking vises but I have seen then in post vises as well and thought the same thing you did when I first saw one.
@alanbutler771217 күн бұрын
@@df-intheshop330 Great, thank you! It still works great, so I will continue using it without worries. Much appreciated!
@ivan5559921 күн бұрын
Off-topic - l like that microphone sound effect. Blast from the past. You don't hear that often nowadays, unless it is edited.
@df-intheshop33020 күн бұрын
Thanks for assuming it was intentional but It wasn't. I'm still learning this new editing software. It's a 1000 times better than iMovie but it doesn't like amateurs playing with the controls.
@johnjude268521 күн бұрын
Good point about the vice bearing Correct, we can check sizes ourselves if needed I say 1 lb of steel tanks projects that are almost 1 lb. Might have been me asking for radius of pein. I had experience a 4 lb cross pein that was than I should work with I'm 62 and it was too heavy so I gifted it to a younger Smith who says he loves it that bigger radius is so forgiving and marks very little radius. I took a dime and cut a washer in half to make a Guage for accuracy measures my pein before I grind them to keep the radius to match as before I grind. The Smith that I'd gifted the hammer was estimating nickel or quarter size. I'm wishing I had gauge it before gifted it away he lives 800 miles away I weld a hooked bar to hang the gauge on I'll make him one about quarter size and he'll match it to the radius of the 4 lb. Hammer to help me copy the radius. That's radius is so important I believe. I'm still believing you. J.P. Services and Black Bear Forge are the biggest reasons I'm loving this craft. The hammer skills I've learned from you and J.P. Services Black Bear has lots of projects and safety advice I'm thinking thanks for teaching the 3 of you have been influence. Myself I mostly enjoy gardening tools and tools that are helpful in my garage DIY just handy been making better tools than Harbor freight mostly and cheaper Thanks Dennis
@CutelariaAlternativa23 күн бұрын
Awesome!
@robsonsantosOSO23 күн бұрын
Thank You!
@korbinstewart749027 күн бұрын
Knowledge
@Btines0128 күн бұрын
Fantastic! I really like the simple explanation for each tong sets.
@johnjude268528 күн бұрын
Remember you have talked about Blacksmith hammers, Question? The radius of the best hammer I've used was on a 4 lb double 45 degree hammer that the pein was great for moving steel yet didn't mark the steel as smaller diameter pein often does . Will you advise on the radius of a great pein That heavy 4 lbs got heavy and I gifted it to a Facebook Blacksmith that had given me some coaching partly so I would not us that 4 lbs that I probably shouldn't have to temp me into using BIG THANKS Sir
@plusdier28 күн бұрын
Belle vidéo et merci pour avoir mis les mesures en métrique comme toujours encore bravo Didier ( France )