No, this is just glair. 'Tempera' is a general term for water soluble paint. 'Egg tempera' is usually egg yolk + water. 'Tempera grass' is egg yok or whole egg + linseed oil.

yeah but why do that, it's still expensive since you bought the watercolor. people make their own paints usually to save

Why stop there? You can be even lazier and buy gouache

The thing about the egg tempera is in my opinion, just in case. Everyone can work with the thing that wants, i said that in order to avoid archival problems, etc (and even our contemporary mediums can fail, is not carved on stone). I only bet on good quality materials for building subsequently the last product, that is our paint. NVM, my own thoughts lol.

Come on! you can making yourself.

she can't tell

When you going to make lots of it, on small quantities used pallet knife, easy!

She can't tell!

Better pigment dispersion. Always prefer a muller! Your pigment will be less clumpy, more colorful and you need less.

... especially for the organic pigments like alizarin crimson, pyrrole reds and orange, pthalos, carbonn black

so you´re not finished ;-). use more pigment and carbonate in relation to the liquids

gum arabic is the best, alternative not give the same effect!

@@taziozaffarone6899 ok, thanks

She can't said!

I noticed theses errors

watercolor NEVER contain chalk! gouache is opaque anyway!

Cheap watercolor sometimes also contains chalk

I was curious if the chalk dulls the black gouache. If the chalk is not present, would the gouache be considered just watercolor? What is the true difference between watercolor and gouache if no chalk is used for opacity?

I had wondered about the chalk addition as well. I've understood that chalk is used predominately for Lake pigments that can be fugitive (fade), so they have to be 'bound' to another material, such as the chalk. Years back, was taught that gouache was a 'highly pigmented' watercolor. This would be consistent your Blue Wren's comment that more pigment is used in ratio to the binder mix for gouache.

Yes and no. There are pigments that are always going to be transparent, no matter how much you put in. This is especially true for ultramarine or less so for pthalos for example. Also, tiny amounts of carbonate can be enough to give a great deal of opacity without affecting the saturation too much. Also, chalk is a so called pigment extender that does not have to be listed as a pigment itself. Many pigments do not need it though, and high quality gouache is surely made without it for many pigments... but it still sppeds up the drying time btw.

@@mrgreene3290 This is something different. Laking of dyes (not pigments!) is done to turn them into pigments by attaching the soluble dye to a solid particle like calcium carbonate or aluminium hydroxide. (metal-ceramic). Since many dyes are not lightfast, their laked pigmnts are also not very lightfast, but usually more so. But it does not have anything to do with making gouache.. the chalk in gouache is mainly to give it more opacity.

@@CAPTAINCAPSLOCK111 Thanks Phil, interesting. I do know that major producers of fine gouache such as Schminke Horadam and M.Graham explicitly state that they do not contain chalk fillers and do list the ingredients of their binders (neither of which contain carbonate). They do give opacity information and their pigments range from semitransparent to semiopaque and opaque. As a result the semitransparent colours may not layer well over dark colours and so if you want bright cad yellow highlights (for example) you either need to use a masking fluid or leave the paper white beneath.

Waoooooooooo! incredible!

honey is a humectant to extend the drying time, but to prevent it from drying you need glycerin

I don't think so, she doesn't said the quantities of binding, whitening, dextrin etc to each colour of pigment. She is pouring in but never stop talking. Very bad video.

Sorry I didn't put it on camera longer. The glue and the sealant that I used is also the Mona Lisa brand. It comes in various consistencies. What I used was "extra thick" because I love that three-dimensional shape. I've linked a kit in the video description to an entire kit. Though the glue looks and smells like an Elmer's type of glue, I'm sure there's something substantially different about it because it stays very tacky once it's dry so that the gold leaf will adhere to it.

No, I do not always seal the gold leaf. The only reason you really would want to seal it, is if the gold leaf will be handled frequently. I'm going to use this test strip to teach SCA classes, so I intend for it to be handled frequently. For most scrolls or other types of paper art, I'd say don't seal it, because they'll be hung on the wall and rarely ever touched. That way you don't have to deal with the sealant getting on the paper and causing any issues. If, on the other hand, you're going to gold leaf something like a candlestick which will be touched frequently, then go ahead and seal it so that the gold doesn't flake off.