love this video. can you tell me what the figures are for 250mm centres and 300mm please?? thank you

Do those multiplication factors have to be increased by 20% if using a heat pump?

Clear and concise, thank you . I’m attempting this install but I only have to add 50 sq.meters of ufh to part of house that is on far side from baxi .I dug down 200mm in old stone section of house added 100mm insulation. I’m putting in the loops . A plumbing friend tells me the aluminum breaks down in the piping but I just used it anyway as everyone else uses this product in my area (ufh specific pipe from Italy) Question - can I keep single stage boiler , keep the water tank (immersion from boiler ) Keep the on off switch for rads (old style just which has temperature control on the baxi (on/off) And on my new ufl 4 port manifold just supply it from the 3/4” radiator main supply (at end of rad system) ? Perhaps I’m better of getting new thermostat, wiring control center and redoing all the controls with two thermostats (rads and ufh) Pump and boiler heat on for rads Pump and boiler heat on for ufl Controled from thermostat and or smart phone

DO NOT USE 12mm! Heat pumps are coming.

Hi mate, great video but your website doesn't work?

Excellet explantion that has helped me no end to troubleshooting our new heating system.

Hi can we use two different pipe sizes with same manifold using an adapter. I'm thinking for using a 16mm pipe for my kitchen which has a larger area and 12mm pipe in hallway with wood floor which i will take out n install 60mm insulation between 100mm joists.

Great video

At 8 minutes 30, you explain the signal is sent to boiler or potentially the 2 port after the call for heat. What is the need in the 2-port to the manifold when you’ve already got more than enough control?

I would encourage you to continue creating content.

Great video but how are you expected to get multiple actuator wired into finest connector block in wiring centre?

Hi Craig, just wondering what software you use to design loops and create the drawings?

Fantastic

13:03 it’s been a few years now, how often the water be changed?

Fantastic video, thanks! Answered so many questions I had

It was really good explanation about how manifold works

Good m'y brother

How come you only have 4 videos, this channel could be absolutely amazing if you kept the content coming

Is there a video about thermostats - especially how they are wired to the actuators and boiler control?

Thank you very much, very informative. Should the UFH pump be wired to run simultaneously with the zone valve being opened and the boiler being called for heat? or Should the pump come on when the thermostat signals the zone valve to open beforehand?

Thank you very much

I have a Wirsbo brass manifold underfloor heating system installed in 2005 with electromechanical actuators on the manifold ports and thermostats which control this. Can I replace those actuators with a manual flow control so I can just set the rooms I want heated to be open and those rooms I don’t use i can shut off? I’m trying to get rid of the power consumption of the actuators and thermostats, plus I heard underfloor heating runs more efficiently if you leave the zones open and control temperature by adjusting the boiler flow temp.

Thank you for putting this video together, it's very helpful and very well delivered. I have a 3-Zone system, kitchen, living room and hallway, they are each around 80 m run ufh pipe. My build never explained anything how to operate. When I used the underfloor heating it gets hot at the beginning part of the pipe like 30% you can feel it on your feet, the rest is generally cold uncomfortable to walk on doesn't get hot. The flow rate is around 3/4L on each zone. I've tried to play with the pump and put it on a higher setting didn't really make a difference. Any advice you could shoot my way would be greatly appreciated, as I've been ripped off on my first round :-( Thanking you in advance

Hi great instructional videos, when I turn my ufh mixing valve down it thumps when it’s introducing cool water into the manifold is this normal

I have moved into a house where the UFH manifold appears to have been installed the wrong way around: flowmeters on return and TRVs (with thermostat actuators) on flow (hot water in). The system works, but the flow meters always show zero. I assume to make the system work at its full efficiency the manifold needs to be planned the right way round (the reverse of what mine is)?

Hi good explanation of the system. However you did not explain the auto vent valves and drain and pressure release parts at the end of the manifold. My top auto vent valve is leaking. I assume I need to depressurise before removing and replacing/ cleaning?

Thanks for the great video. One question; I noticed that the on the UFH manifolds in my house the Actuators are on the ‘Supply’ arm and the Flow indicators are on the ‘Return’ arm, which is the opposite of your diagram. Does that matter ?

In your example would the underfloor circuit need some form of hydraulic separation (close coupled tees or low loss header) between the ufh zone valve and the manifold to stop the underfloor heating pump affecting the boiler's own pump? Or does the underfloor heating pump not affect any pressures in the primary flow and returns from the boiler ? I hope my question is clear as I need to understand this. Thanks

Hi there, great video. I have a question about how wire up the heat miser properly. I have 4 zones UFH at my ground floor premises and radiators upstairs my bedrooms. It all fed by Worster Bosch boiler . I have two ports valve installed for each one - radiators system and UFH system. I have 5 core cable between the boiler and the heatmiser. The boiler is controlled by RF Honeywell thermostat. My question is if you could help me wire the two port valves to the heatmiser, as there is only one slot for two port valve . And the other one is how to wire the boiler to the heatmiser? Do I really need 5 core cable to the miser. Appreciate for any help. Thank you

Really helpful as a Spark in training. Always best to know exactly what ya wires are controlling :)

Fantastic conent - with heatpumps becoming more popular which can reverse their cycle and provide cooling ( during hot summer days), will conventional manifolds work or will that need a different set up?

If 200mm centres is floor area X 5, and 100mm is X 10, why is 150mm X by 6.6 and not 7.5?

Brilliant content, do you offer a service to calculate and design snail pattern pipe layouts? I have my heat loss calculations for a self build low temperature system, radiators up and ufh ground floor, but I'm struggling to understand how i get the ufh to match a certain heat loss requirement. Example: a 22m2 room will need filled with pipe regardless, but how do select the pipe centres required for that heat loss and then fine tune it. 50mm spacing jumps make a lot of difference to kw heat output.

Great video, thank you

Great video(s). Where do you calculate the distance to manifold?

Great video, really helpful! THANKS!

Very useful! But how I choose between these distances 200, 150 & 100mm?

Really helpful video for the community Underfloor Heating Review!🤩

Really well put together and accurately informative.

But surely the amount of pipe required will depend on the heat load of the particular room no?

How many videos do you have because i need to know every thing about design and spec

Can you clean air flow valves. Mine are completely black and you can't see if there is any flow.

Great video, thanks for clarifying

At Christmas I had to have an old Drayton actuator valve replaced on my UFH manifold and also the three port valve changed. I’m finding when the underfloor heating is on the pipes running into the radiator and hot water motorised valves in the boiler cupboard are roaring hot. Both valves sound to be running although the indicator lights are not ignited as they would be had I turned the rads and hot water on. Any ideas?

At Christmas I had to have an old Drayton actuator valve replaced on my UFH manifold and also the three port valve changed. I’m finding when the underfloor heating is on the pipes running into the radiator and hot water motorised valves in the boiler cupboard are roaring hot. Both valves sound to be running although the indicator lights are not ignited as they would be had I turned the rads and hot water on. Any ideas?

Great video... A question for you. I have a fairly large system, two UFH manifolds, one hot water cylinder (mains pressure) and two radiators circuits. Recently had some issues with rtn flows not letting rad circuits to get warm, so had some of the supply and rtn branches replumbed in 28mm copper so ALL circuits come off the 28 and rtn to a 28 common rtn to the boiler. However, the UFH heating manifolds (Myson Premier) are not managing to keep themselves stable. Set them to 40 and yet they go up to 55degrees. I do not think its leaking mixers as they both started playing up when the supply/rtn branches were replumbed in the main boiler room. I have a hunch that they are reverse feeding from the CH rtn when none/few of other circuits are open and thus the auto bypass valve is letting a lot of flow to "short circuit" the system. Specifically when i first turn the UFH on, the rtn output from the manifold gets hot "very quickly" which i would not expect. Thoughts? Seen this before? Contemplating fitting non-rtn valves on the CH rtn from the manifolds to stop this.... BUT as the UFH mixer actually draws water BACK from the CH Rtn when it thinks it needs to cool things down this "could" cause a vacuum. Thinking.....

Which pipe is better for ufh in screed new build standard? Evoh or alu? Im also wanting to use 16mm pipe to do my upstairs radiators too, over sized for lower delta T and linked via a ufh manifold in a radial layout. Are all manifolds suitable for this or only some of them?

Great video, I have two questions. 1. Can you have some areas/rooms on open circuit, so they come on when any zone is calling for heat, ie a central hallway on open circuit? 2. Can you pipe an UFH circuit to a ground floor bathroom towel rail and if so, would you have it on its own circuit or part of a room floor loop?

Great video and really helped me understand our system. Have Polypipe UFH in 2 areas; ground floor bedroom/bathroom extension on one manifold & thermostat ( all working well), 2nd in large lounge/kitchen on 2nd manifold & thermostat/programmer which is not reaching all parts and rarely gets to the temp set. The 2zone valve was changed and plumber returning to fit new actuators/pin valves. Hopefully this will sort it unless you think there could be another problem. But to complicate matters, we also have radiators to the old part of the house both upstairs and downstairs controlled by a 3rd Polypipe thermostat/timer. This all works ok some of the time but on some days despite the thermostat calling for heat the boiler doesn’t come on, all the radiators stay cold. Are the two issues linked do you think? How does the radiator part of the system relate to and work alongside the UFH? I’ve tried to find any logic to when the radiators do not come on but can’t find any. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thank you so much.

Really enjoyed that video. Very well explained. May I ask if a manifold can be used solely for radiators on their own at 65 or so degrees?